0w20 more engine wear?

[Pape]

So has anyone figured out that the 0w20 oil circulates faster at cold starts, when the majority of the wear occurs and that the thinner oil pulls heat faster?

We sure did, we also did notice that oil viscosity is a sliding windows so is the temperature range you are operating your Jeep in.

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[Odyssey USA]

Being an engine builder, I know the benefits of a thinner oil but the 3.6 seems to have a potential rocker problem. Most wear occurs at startup and I don’t assemble engines with 0 weight. I use assembly lube. That’s why I’ve gone up one increment on both the base oil weight and operating temperature weight. I don’t see anything pointing to the failures being temperature related but yeah, heavier weight oil will run a couple degrees hotter in that locality. Moreso, the main and rod bearings. The engine runs quieter and the 5w-30 is mitigating the effects of clearance, including a potential rocker bearing failure point. It won’t hurt, it can only help. I wouldn’t go any higher on the base weight though, especially if I was operating the engine way up north during the winter. In that case, I might stick with the recommended oil.

With the 2.0, they recommend 0w-30 for the Alfa Romeo 2.0 with the same short block as the Jeep 2.0 where they recommend 5w-30. Going up a step on the base weight will be fine.

 

[Bearded_Dragon]

So much for intelligent, honest feedback. Shouldn't have expected anything more I guess.

Around here Amsoil jokes are deathly overplayed just like that stupid, "that will buff out" phrase when seeing a totaled vehicle.

If you haven't yet go to BobIsTheOilGuy.com (bitog) if you want to learn more about oil.

Oh I almost forgot, you might be able to save some money with Fram's new Synthetic Endurance filters found at Walmart. These appear to be the same as Amsoil's EA15k oil filters.

 

[Pig-Pen]

 

[roaniecowpony]

So much for intelligent, honest feedback. Shouldn't have expected anything more I guess.

There was a time when Amsoil offered something you couldn't get in common motor oils. Those days have long since passed. Many of today's high performance vehicles specify oils that not only require synthetics, but some of the best available. IMO, Amsoil is no longer leading the technology race of motor oils. But, I'm a Preferred Customer and use some of their products.

 

[roaniecowpony]

So has anyone figured out that the 0w20 oil circulates faster at cold starts, when the majority of the wear occurs and that the thinner oil pulls heat faster?

Ted,
You have to compare each brand of 0w20 to each brand of 5w30 to see if the cold flow is much different, since there is a range of performance for each designation. Also, consider that there are 0w30 and 0w40 oils available that would fall into the same cold flow bracket as the 0w20.

For the thermal transfer properties of the different viscosity, my understanding is that you're splitting hairs and likely not even be able to detect it in actual use. The 3.6L, IMO, runs hotter than a two dollar pistol, and while it may be fine for an OE configured Jeep, what little margin it has before temperature becomes critical, is reduced further with larger tires, extra weight of mods, off-roading in high ambient temperatures, etc. So, while a lot of people are quick to spend on mods to make a few more horsepower, make louder exhaust, skids, winches, tires, wheels, etc., few are inclined to spend on reducing engine temperature, just to give more margin for those extreme conditions.

 

[UncleJimmy]

Not sure that I agree "most engine wear occurs at start up". I have read the "experts agree most engine wear occurs from dirt" i.e. contaminates. In the 3.6 that's looking more and more the cause of valve trouble with coolant contamination:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/unexplained-coolant-loss.119767/page-3#post-2631503

I have had no issues running 0w-40. Cold starts normally during winter as low as 15 F. The oil temp runs in normal range. I do take steps to keep the engine cool for improved viscosity, less chance of warping plastics and possibly inducing above leak through frequent extreme hot/cool cycles.

I do think there are better values, such as Euro spec motor oil; it's a lot of bang for the buck, but for incremental improvement (higher TBN, lower NOACK) the boutique motor oils are my preference.

 

[jmr]

When the 3.6 came out in 2011 the recommended oil was 5W-30. They later changed it to 5W-20 then 0W-20. On the LX forum a FCA engineers that worked on the 3.6 platform said to continue with 5W-30 instead of the lighter oils. My 2.0 uses 5W-30 and I put that in my 5.7 Hemi RAM too.

 

[Gunfighter]

0W-20 is fine for the 3.6L. I run Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic. Whatever you do change oil 5k miles.

 

[Odyssey USA]

0W-20 is fine for the 3.6L. I run Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic. Whatever you do change oil 5k miles.

Whatever oil, that’s the most important thing you can do is to change every 5K miles, especially if you plan to keep the vehicle a few years and not pass the wear and tear to the next owner.

 

[Flash11569]

I love the 2.0 liter in my jeep but I think I would use 20W50 if it would quiet the engine noise down. Probably wouldn't last long thou.....

 

[Heimkehr]

I love the 2.0 liter in my jeep but I think I would use 20W50 if it would quiet the engine noise down. Probably wouldn't last long thou.....

The 2.0T is indeed a bit noisy (I refer to it as "mechanically busy") during cold starts, no doubt about it. That said, when fully warmed up and idling, that engine is one of the quietest that I've ever owned. It's exhibited this behavior since new, so I'd say it's just the nature of things.

 

[UncleJimmy]

UncleJimmy
I can see you came to the same conclusion I have
Two more things to consider ( can't remember if I told you about these )
About 4 months ago I installed the RPM Extreme JL fan controller. This is a game changer
It has lowered my coolant and oil temps about 25 to 30 degrees and reduced the amount of oil that my oil catch can collects
I used to see temps up HW80 to Lake Tahoe pushing 235 degrees
After fan controller same trip topped out at 212
With the fan controller average driving I am run about 188 to 195 degrees
I just installed the updated PCV valve and have another 500 miles to go before I drain and check to see if it reduced the amount of oil in my catch can ( see pictures. New one on right )
I will keep you updated

Did you ever come to any conclusions about the new PCV valve design? Trying to decide if I should upgrade mine.

Thanks.

 

[Willys41]

Did you ever come to any conclusions about the new PCV valve design? Trying to decide if I should upgrade mine.

Thanks.

Changing out the PCV valve with the updated one made NO difference in the amount of oil that my oil catch can collected.
Before and after the switch oil that was collected was exactly the same.

 

[UncleJimmy]

Changing out the PCV valve with the updated one made NO difference in the amount of oil that my oil catch can collected.
Before and after the switch oil that was collected was exactly the same.

Thanks! That saves me a minor headache as I was thinking of swapping it out.

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