Changing oil but not filter

[CarbonSteel]

The stupid oil filter housing makes me nervous and I want to leave it alone for as long as possible.

They do not crack; the o-rings under the housing harden over time and overtightening the filter cap can move the housing and accelerate a leak. The housing is only held down with 5 bolts that are 6MM thread size (8MM socket).

With that said, I would not leave the cap on for 2 oil changes--the loosening of the cap typically puts more strain on the housing than tightening it because the "break-away" torque is higher than tightening torque.

PS...you are not "saving" anything by changing the oil at 2.5K other than your piece of mind. The 3.6L is not an engine that has fuel dilution and if you are running a good oil filter AND air filter (e.g. 99% efficiency at 20 microns) the wear metals that matter will be trapped.

Change it at 5K and you will get as much life out of the engine as possible. The oil WILL NOT be what kills it...

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[Flip]

@Jeep Junkie

I'm sure you could get away with that but instead of just changing the oil every 2500, how about change oil & filter every 3000 miles. Now you're good for sure.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

They do not crack; the o-rings under the housing harden over time and overtightening the filter cap can move the housing and accelerate a leak. The housing is only held down with 5 bolts that are 6MM thread size (8MM socket).

With that said, I would not leave the cap on for 2 oil changes--the loosening of the cap typically puts more strain on the housing than tightening it because the "break-away" torque is higher than tightening torque.

I see. I guess I will do 10 ft pounds only and see if it leaks. If no leaks then I will continue with 10 ft pounds with no worries

 

[Jeep Junkie]

@Jeep Junkie

I'm sure you could get away with that but instead of just changing the oil every 2500, how about change oil & filter every 3000 miles. Now you're good for sure.

That's a good idea too

 

[Bobby Hank]

That's exactly how it's done. If you don't hold your mouth and tongue right, then the job if destined to fail.

I learned paint a straight edge with a brush from an old hand who asked what my tongue and teeth were doing when painting. I said the same. He told me to relax it all, and boom, straight edges.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I see. I guess I will do 10 ft pounds only and see if it leaks. If no leaks then I will continue with 10 ft pounds with no worries

Just snug it--that's all it takes. If the o-ring is seated properly, it will not leak.

PS...see my edit in the other post...

 

[Flip]

Just snug it--that's all it takes. If the o-ring is seated properly, it will not leak.

PS...see my edit in the other post...

That's what I do, snug. No issues so far.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

The problem is that when I tighten the thing with hand at one point hand can't rotate it anymore unless I arm wrestle with it or something. Then when I use the wrench, the stupid thing just keeps rotating and 16 ft pounds fee likel an eternity.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

So far things look good, 16 ft pounds last time.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

Many oil change places don't change the O rings, and they have ham fisted guys who want to get the vehicles in and out. I'm willing to bet that many here who have had the oil filter housings crack, for the most part, don't do their own oil changes.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Many oil change places don't change the O rings, and they have ham fisted guys who want to get the vehicles in and out. I'm willing to bet that many here who have had the oil filter housings crack, for the most part, don't do their own oil changes.

I follow an engine builder Dave automotives on youtube, he works in Utah. He received a Toyota Sequoia with a blown up V8 because the oil drain plug fell while the guy was driving on the highway. These quick oil change places are crazy

 

[UncleJimmy]

They do not crack; the o-rings under the housing harden over time and overtightening the filter cap can move the housing and accelerate a leak. The housing is only held down with 5 bolts that are 6MM thread size (8MM socket).

With that said, I would not leave the cap on for 2 oil changes--the loosening of the cap typically puts more strain on the housing than tightening it because the "break-away" torque is higher than tightening torque.

PS...you are not "saving" anything by changing the oil at 2.5K other than your piece of mind. The 3.6L is not an engine that has fuel dilution and if you are running a good oil filter AND air filter (e.g. 99% efficiency at 20 microns) the wear metals that matter will be trapped.

Change it at 5K and you will get as much life out of the engine as possible. The oil WILL NOT be what kills it...

Perhaps you are right, or perhaps you are wrong, but either way you are making an assumption. You cannot see what is going on inside the engine.

You have said you run UOAs. What's the going rate now, $30? So for $28 I can pick up 5 quarts of oil at Walmart, drain out the old oil and any contaminants, put in clean oil and yet I am not going to see any benefit?

The benefit to me is I am not making any assumptions, I have the CERTAINTY that my oil is clean and is doing the best job possible.

I also have to question your claim of fuel dilution. This may or may not be true but this would be dependent on specific driving conditions and circumstances, which is highly variable.

This PUG engine has several design elements to meet emissions regulations such as updated injectors to increase fuel atomization and combustion efficiency (which can clog easier causing bore wash), as well as low-tension piston rings which reduce friction and improve efficiency while increasing blow-by and more prone to getting stuck. In addition the sump capacity was reduced so now you have less oil required to the same or more work. The 8-speed transmissions allows for lower average engine RPM. There is increased compression, torque and HP. Overall engine oil temps are higher to aid with emissions. Coolant capacity reduced to aid in quicker warm-up and aid emissions. Add to that increased amounts of ethanol content and you have more moisture and corrosive contaminants in the oil. Add this all up and the oil is being stressed harder than ever before.

At the end of the day, could you run you engine oil longer? Honestly, I can't say for sure and it would be one person's educated guess anyway. But for less than the price of a single UOA and just a few minutes of time I can guarantee clean oil and know I am getting the best protection possible for the engine.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Perhaps you are right, or perhaps you are wrong, but either way you are making an assumption. You cannot see what is going on inside the engine.

You have said you run UOAs. What's the going rate now, $30? So for $28 I can pick up 5 quarts of oil at Walmart, drain out the old oil and any contaminants, put in clean oil and yet I am not going to see any benefit?

The benefit to me is I am not making any assumptions, I have the CERTAINTY that my oil is clean and is doing the best job possible.

I also have to question your claim of fuel dilution. This may or may not be true but this would be dependent on specific driving conditions and circumstances, which is highly variable.

This PUG engine has several design elements to meet emissions regulations such as updated injectors to increase fuel atomization and combustion efficiency (which can clog easier causing bore wash), as well as low-tension piston rings which reduce friction and improve efficiency while increasing blow-by and more prone to getting stuck. In addition the sump capacity was reduced so now you have less oil required to the same or more work. The 8-speed transmissions allows for lower average engine RPM. There is increased compression, torque and HP. Overall engine oil temps are higher to aid with emissions. Coolant capacity reduced to aid in quicker warm-up and aid emissions. Add to that increased amounts of ethanol content and you have more moisture and corrosive contaminants in the oil. Add this all up and the oil is being stressed harder than ever before.

At the end of the day, could you run you engine oil longer? Honestly, I can't say for sure and it would be one person's educated guess anyway. But for less than the price of a single UOA and just a few minutes of time I can guarantee clean oil and know I am getting the best protection possible for the engine.

Plus, Car Care Nut says that UOA's don't show how sludged up the internals of the engine are. I think certainty is not in UOA's, certainty is in opening a brand spanking new jug of oil and pouring it in the engine

 

[UncleJimmy]

Plus, Car Care Nut says that UOA's don't show how sludged up the internals of the engine are. I think certainty is not in UOA's, certainty is in opening a brand spanking new jug of oil and pouring it in the engine

And he says ignore Toyota and change every 5k yet his personal vehicles he changes every 3k mi.

Also, on the topic of wear metals, engine wear occurs in multiple ways. In some of those cases, there are preexisting conditions that are not wear in themselves but eventually lead to wear. So you can have clean UOAs but at the same time be developing conditions that can only be detected through diagnostics or engine tear down.

 

[Valpo Jeep]

Right around 2,000 miles my oil starts looking pretty crappy, that's why I want it out of there. Anything that looks crappy must be crappy

7,900 miles on my last oil change and still good oil other than the silicon. Dark oil does not equal bad oil.

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