Changing oil but not filter

[UncleJimmy]

7,900 miles on my last oil change and still good oil other than the silicon. Dark oil does not equal bad oil.

And dark oil does not equal clean oil.

Do you want my used 2500k oil? It still should be good for another 5000 mi according to your UOA.
I'll sell it to you for half price.

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[Jeep Junkie]

And he says ignore Toyota and change every 5k yet his personal vehicles he changes every 3k mi.

I watched his Camry video that has received gazillions of views. He did a surgery on the engine and showed how much crappy oil was inside the engine despite emptying the oil pan. I think he regularly does short block surgeries on Toyotas. Recently he did one on the so called bomb proof 5.7L V8 Land Cruiser. This time coolant was the culprit and blew up head gasket and cylinders.
This as hot as a nuclear reactor Pentastar makes me nervous about coolant too. 30k miles and I will flush it.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Guys, those super high mileage Rams and Dodges are not this version of Pentastar, we need to be careful with this one.

7,900 miles on my last oil change and still good oil other than the silicon. Dark oil does not equal bad oil.

Is this Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy or Extended Performance?

 

[Jeep Junkie]

7,900 miles on my last oil change and still good oil other than the silicon. Dark oil does not equal bad oil.

That 7.88 after 8000 miles makes me nervous, I think that sheared to 7.3 or 7.5 first and then thickened to 7.88. Run it for 2000 more miles and it may thicken to 8 or a scary 9, that kind of thickness is not good. I think you need to be careful, UOA does not show sludge.

 

[Atomic-Mouse]

If you are worried about the housing why not swap it out to a spin on filter. I’m planning on doing this to my 24 in a few weeks.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...b-CYljApEN8pLetyZelst6RWHEc0jBxMaAjX-EALw_wcB

I change the oil and filters in my vehicles every 3000 miles.
To each their own.

 

[UncleJimmy]

If you are worried about the housing why not swap it out to a spin on filter. I’m planning on doing this to my 24 in a few weeks.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/ms-201-bk-baxter-performance-cartridge-to-spin-on-oil-filter-adapter?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21010793933&utm_term=|Cj0KCQiA4-y8BhC3ARIsAHmjC_EyrLQ6IeUVw296FDYqjpKb-CYljApEN8pLetyZelst6RWHEc0jBxMaAjX-EALw_wcB|agid||adid||ntwk|x|targetid|l|ocp|9002390|matchtype||dev|c&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADsSSJ60ZGrFAu3mwzZXJHPPnaANO&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4-y8BhC3ARIsAHmjC_EyrLQ6IeUVw296FDYqjpKb-CYljApEN8pLetyZelst6RWHEc0jBxMaAjX-EALw_wcB

I change the oil and filters in my vehicles every 3000 miles.
To each their own.

It may be insignificant (or not) but the increased height/weight could increase the leverage on the seals at the bottom. Just something to consider. If I were to do this, which I'm not because my Jeep starts with no valve train noise unless it sits for a week in which case I prime the motor first using the two-foot start procedure, I would use the remote oil filter.

 

[blackthought_]

This post makes no sense. Change the oil along with the filter and torque it down to the manufacturer specs and you’ll be fine. YOU are the one that is doing the oil change no? You have the ability to not screw it up and over torque the filter.

 

[AcesandEights]

... can the 2500 mile filter contaminate the new oil?
Thanks!

Obviously.

 

[Kracka]

Quality oil filters can be had for as little as $3. Check out the Champ P1009XL (basically identical to a Fram TG11665 with 99% efficiency @ 20 micron).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11192497

I've run these in 3 Pentastars now.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Perhaps you are right, or perhaps you are wrong, but either way you are making an assumption. You cannot see what is going on inside the engine.

You have said you run UOAs. What's the going rate now, $30? So for $28 I can pick up 5 quarts of oil at Walmart, drain out the old oil and any contaminants, put in clean oil and yet I am not going to see any benefit?

The benefit to me is I am not making any assumptions, I have the CERTAINTY that my oil is clean and is doing the best job possible.

I also have to question your claim of fuel dilution. This may or may not be true but this would be dependent on specific driving conditions and circumstances, which is highly variable.

This PUG engine has several design elements to meet emissions regulations such as updated injectors to increase fuel atomization and combustion efficiency (which can clog easier causing bore wash), as well as low-tension piston rings which reduce friction and improve efficiency while increasing blow-by and more prone to getting stuck. In addition the sump capacity was reduced so now you have less oil required to the same or more work. The 8-speed transmissions allows for lower average engine RPM. There is increased compression, torque and HP. Overall engine oil temps are higher to aid with emissions. Coolant capacity reduced to aid in quicker warm-up and aid emissions. Add to that increased amounts of ethanol content and you have more moisture and corrosive contaminants in the oil. Add this all up and the oil is being stressed harder than ever before.

At the end of the day, could you run you engine oil longer? Honestly, I can't say for sure and it would be one person's educated guess anyway. But for less than the price of a single UOA and just a few minutes of time I can guarantee clean oil and know I am getting the best protection possible for the engine.

Not trying to be a horse's ass here, BUT...

It sounds like you need to educate yourself on what a UOA can and cannot do--there is ZERO guess work about how long the oil can be ran in an engine using oil analysis PROVIDED the lab is properly accredited, which is not a Blackstone.

Moreover, I am not assuming anything. I am using factual data from an ISO certified oil testing facility that uses the latest ASTM testing methodologies to make data driven decisions about the health of the oil. For the record, you only need to do UOAs long enough to develop a trend to understand the health of the oil. I test mine every time, but that is just me.

In addition, changing your oil early does not mean that you do not have issues happening in the engine--mine developed a coolant leak and the UOA detected that leak long before ANY conventional method would thereby allowing me to take pre-emptive actions.

Next, there is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING in a 3.6L engine that will stress the oil more than a comparable direct-injected engine--especially a turbocharged direct injected engine. All of the things you call out above are NORMAL OPERATION and have been in nearly every engine since the early 2000's. Ethanol started appearing in gasoline in the late 1980s and so it is old news. I ran 15K OCIs in an engine including using E-85 most of the time and it ran fine when I sold it with 180K miles on it. Again, use the data and not seat of the pants assumptions.

Lastly, I am 1000% confident in my statements about fuel dilution with regards to the 3.6L as it is an MPI engine and 20 UOAs below support what I say. I KNOW that you can run the oil in a 3.6L longer than 2.5K or 3K miles--20 UOAs below show the TBN well above 2.0 at 5K miles, with a number of them above 3.0--there is no "guessing" about that.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Not trying to be a horse's ass here, BUT...

It sounds like you need to educate yourself on what a UOA can and cannot do--there is ZERO guess work about how long the oil can be ran in an engine using oil analysis PROVIDED the lab is properly accredited, which is not a Blackstone.

Moreover, I am not assuming anything. I am using factual data from an ISO certified oil testing facility that uses the latest ASTM testing methodologies to make data driven decisions about the health of the oil. For the record, you only need to do UOAs long enough to develop a trend to understand the health of the oil. I test mine every time, but that is just me.

In addition, changing your oil early does not mean that you do not have issues happening in the engine--mine developed a coolant leak and the UOA detected that leak long before ANY conventional method would thereby allowing me to take pre-emptive actions.

Next, there is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING in a 3.6L engine that will stress the oil more than a comparable direct-injected engine--especially a turbocharged direct injected engine. All of the things you call out above are NORMAL OPERATION and have been in nearly every engine since the early 2000's. Ethanol started appearing in gasoline in the late 1980s and so it is old news. I ran 15K OCIs in an engine including using E-85 most of the time and it ran fine when I sold it with 180K miles on it. Again, use the data and not seat of the pants assumptions.

Lastly, I am 1000% confident in my statements about fuel dilution with regards to the 3.6L as it is an MPI engine and 20 UOAs below support what I say. I KNOW that you can run the oil in a 3.6L longer than 2.5K or 3K miles--20 UOAs below show the TBN well above 2.0 at 5K miles, with a number of them above 3.0--there is no "guessing" about that.

UOAs are expensive, I don't want to do it anymore. Blackstone jacked up their prices. 3k mile oil changes are cheaper and zero guess work is required. One UOA equals two oil changes with Walmart Supertech.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

To hell with Boutique oils too. One HPL equals almost 6 Supertech oil changes. I think 6 Supertech oil changes will kick HPL's butt for Jeep's long term health.

 

[CarbonSteel]

UOAs are expensive, I don't want to do it anymore. Blackstone jacked up their prices. 3k mile oil changes are cheaper and zero guess work is required. One UOA equals two oil changes with Walmart Supertech.

I would not use Blackstone if it were free. Polaris costs $24 and they are full accredited.

But...guess what, you don't need to run UOAs. There are 20 in my other post. I already spent the money FOR YOU so use the data I have shared (DATA--not supposition, assumption, or old wives tales).

Unless there is something mechanically wrong with your engine, it is a mass produced 3.6L, just like mine was--do you really think they will be so different that you need to worry?

Create a new poll and ask how many people on this forum alone simply follow the iOLM to change their oil. I'll bet you a six pack the majority of them do...AND their engines will last just as long as yours will changing by the iOLM versus every 2.5K.

The difference will be the money in their pockets versus yours...

 

[Old Dogger]

You have said you run UOAs. What's the going rate now, $30? So for $28 I can pick up 5 quarts of oil at Walmart, drain out the old oil and any contaminants, put in clean oil and yet I am not going to see any benefit?

The benefit to me is I am not making any assumptions, I have the CERTAINTY that my oil is clean and is doing the best job possible.

Bingo..........

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Guys, you can go back and forth, but all of you are going to get a love reaction from me because I love all of you guys

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