jadmt
Well-Known Member
if going to do a lot of offroading and fast rough road driving you need to or you risk having the tailgate sheetmetal start failing....if just driving on the road I would not worry about it.
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Yeah man, CNC means if the program is right its beautiful. If the program is wrong, all of those fancy bits are really good at f@ckin stuff up. I used to love watching our Fanuc robot "spread" broken bags of grout and cement all over the cage. I mean, love might not be the right word. But it was impressive nonetheless.They utilize machine welding if I recall reading about that company. Those welds, perfect every time. Unless the machine goes off. I love it when machines go off. Watched a Haas machine obliterate bit after bit on incorrect input data... lol
I run a 35 GY Duratrac on Fuel wheels...I can tell you the TIRE and Wheel are HEAVY to say the least.if going to do a lot of offroading and fast rough road driving you need to or you risk having the tailgate sheetmetal start failing....if just driving on the road I would not worry about it.
I can't speak to JLs, but on JKs, this is certainly the case. While members endlessly fretted about hinges, it was always the rivets that failed.It doesn't impact the hinges because they aren't the weak point in the design. Any time you exceed the original design parameters you increase the probability of damage.
I ran 37's on the factory tailgate ,,, never had a problemI don't think so, I've read people run a 35 on the factory tailgate.
I hear ya'. Destruction, like a symphony. lol And the cost, oh man, that'll turn a stomach quick...Yeah man, CNC means if the program is right its beautiful. If the program is wrong, all of those fancy bits are really good at f@ckin stuff up. I used to love watching our Fanuc robot "spread" broken bags of grout and cement all over the cage. I mean, love might not be the right word. But it was impressive nonetheless.
After living with my bfg 35" on Steelies for 6+ months and often having to close the tailgate twice to overcome the sag I finally broke down and added one of these:
https://a.co/d/0bH4DTtX
Completely fixed the issue at a fraction of the cost of the mopar reinforcement or other overkill solutions that some are proposing for 35's. If you plan to go bigger in the future then maybe overkill is good...
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This is the answer. I off-road with plenty of people on 37”s on stock set up with just the latch block. Like I said I’m at 60k on 35”s at 106lbs with just latch block and making sure the stops are tight against the tire. This is with wheeling regularly on the rocks. Take it for what it’s worth but that’s my experience.I suppose reinforcement could be beneficial if you like to drive with your tailgate open but if you maintain your latch support, there’s zero reason for your tailgate to sag with normal trail and climbing.
If you let slop exist in the latch support, it will let your tailgate rattle up and down which will wallow out your hinges in time. Quicker if there’s more weight.
But what if I add even more weight with heavy duty hinges? If you let slop exist in the latch support, it will let your (heavier) tailgate rattle up and down which will wallow out your hinges in time….
TLDR: You can buy a hell of a lot of less glamorous latch supports for the price of “pretty” hinges and wind up with a tighter tailgate. For 40’s and up, adding the weight of hinges and tires to the tailgate ain’t the answer, bumper mounted tire carriers are.