Stop/start revisited. Need clarification.

[Terrymo]

Just to be clear @alphawolff and @mwilk012 do this for a living. I’m just speculating.

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[alphawolff]

At this point I can’t even tell if this is a joke or what. It’s the batteries.

You can only lead a horse to water

 

[mwilk012]

You can only lead a horse to water

My CO once told me that “they say you can lead a horse to water but you can’t make it drink. Here in the navy, sometimes you have to put a vacuum up its ass and hold its head underwater.”

 

[THAW]

Just to be clear @alphawolff and @mwilk012 do this for a living. I’m just speculating.

To also be clear, I didn't suggest JScan because I think there's an issue with the IBS. I'm hoping IBS data is a convenient way to confirm the battery isn't healthy.

 

[Terrymo]

To also be clear, I didn't suggest JScan because I think there's an issue with the IBS. I'm hoping IBS data will help confirm the battery isn't healthy.

Nope I wasn’t excluding you as someone knowledgeable, just myself. I appreciate the info you add without turning everything into a 10 paragraph answer that makes my eyes glaze over.

 

[THAW]

Nope I wasn’t excluding you as someone knowledgeable, just myself. I appreciate the info you add without turning everything into a 10 paragraph answer that makes my eyes glaze over.

At the risk of too much clarity, I didn't feel excluded. I learn a lot from posts by the guys you mentioned, and unlike them am very much an amateur.

And thanks. As much as I try to avoid posting repetitive word salads now, I may have incited a few

 

[Coreyb516]

Get a JL lite and turn off the stop start function all together

 

[Ratbert]

Get a JL lite and turn off the stop start function all together

One disadvantage of disabling it is you don't get the warnings when things in your electrical system start going south. For me those warnings led to a diagnostic of a bad IBS, which was covered under warranty.

 

[Coreyb516]

One disadvantage of disabling it is you don't get the warnings when things in your electrical system start going south. For me those warnings led to a diagnostic of a bad IBS, which was covered under warranty.

It doesn’t like disable any systems. All it does is when you start the vehicle up, it tells the vehicle to shut it off. It literally works and pretends like it’s the button that’s why every time when I start my car I see the button light pressed and know that it’s off because the JL light does it for me It doesn’t really just shut off all your systems. It doesn’t have that kind of power. I understand your point about the warranty, though I just unmarried mine when I had to bring it into the dealer and that was it. If you’re a little text savvy, it would be a good option for you. If not then yeah I guess I wouldn’t go anywhere near . I’m out of warranty now so that doesn’t matter anymore to me lol

 

[Pismo61]

It doesn’t like disable any systems. All it does is when you start the vehicle up, it tells the vehicle to shut it off. It literally works and pretends like it’s the button that’s why every time when I start my car I see the button light pressed and know that it’s off because the JL light does it for me It doesn’t really just shut off all your systems. It doesn’t have that kind of power. I understand your point about the warranty, though I just unmarried mine when I had to bring it into the dealer and that was it. If you’re a little text savvy, it would be a good option for you. If not then yeah I guess I wouldn’t go anywhere near . I’m out of warranty now so that doesn’t matter anymore to me lol

Does the Tazor JL :ite have to be left plugged in?

 

[Ratbert]

It doesn’t like disable any systems. All it does is when you start the vehicle up, it tells the vehicle to shut it off. It literally works and pretends like it’s the button that’s why every time when I start my car I see the button light pressed and know that it’s off because the JL light does it for me It doesn’t really just shut off all your systems. It doesn’t have that kind of power. I understand your point about the warranty, though I just unmarried mine when I had to bring it into the dealer and that was it. If you’re a little text savvy, it would be a good option for you. If not then yeah I guess I wouldn’t go anywhere near . I’m out of warranty now so that doesn’t matter anymore to me lol

I know disabling it doesn't disable other systems. The lack of it working on its own, however, was an extremely obvious indication to me that something else was wrong with my electrical system.

And yes, I've had a Tazer in rigs since 2020. I was just pointing out a benefit of periodically enabling start / stop.

 

[Coreyb516]

Does the Tazor JL :ite have to be left plugged in?

Only for live functions which includes stop start

 

[AndySpill]

To be honest, while it seems obvious to you, I’m not convinced that the batteries are the problem. By spring, I will have searched some more and might end-up changing them.

Reason why I’m not convinced is this: As we all know by now, my ESS triggers flawlessly on the first stop of a commute. If my batteries are too weak to make ESS trigger on all the other stops of that same commute because the Jeep is on “battery protection “ mode, then why does it work on the first stop of the next commute and on and on…. If I have 5 errands to run on a 2 hour period, ESS will trigger on each first stop of each commute.

My take is if it’s the batteries going dead, then it would only fire up on the first stop of the first commute and then wouldn’t work again on that same 5 errand day. I can leave the instrment cluster on the ESS info and see, as soon as I lift my foot from the gas pedal, the message switch from ESS operating, to ESS not available, battery protection mode.

I did changed the battery sensor but it didn’t change a thing. Next thing I’ll investigate is the alternator.

Maybe this will reach you...

I appreciate that what you are experiencing suggests that your problem may not involve your batteries (although I seriously have my doubts that they don't play a role) or perhaps that you are experiencing problems explained by multiple factors that include the batteries.

I even get the desire to hold off on battery replacement as a product of recent weather or the above.

But I simply cannot understand, despite weather, why each of the batteries can't be load tested?

I even get that if such load tests show need for battery replacement that you might be hesitant doing so, even if the weather is fair, until you rule out their demise to some other defect. But it would seem to me that if the batteries are near shot and you don't want to replace them until other problems are ruled out that you have a dealer diagnose things before that same weather that finds you putting off addressing this is also contributory to you getting stranded.

Sometimes in medicine the tests the are less likely to detect cause are effected first if relatively fast and cheap, particularly if there is a wait to effect the more predictive procedures.

 

[AndySpill]

As stated prior in the thread @Steph1, do temporarily remove from the negative post of the main battery the factory cable whose distal end is not the body ground prior to load testing.

Again, load, not multimeter testing.

Make sure to keep that cable's you just removed loose end away from vehicle metal. It's distal end is on the negative post of the ESS/Aux battery.

Once this is done a load tester can be placed on the posts of the main battery and it will only test that main battery, not a composite of both batteries together as would be the case with the factory wiring: a (composite load testing) diagnostic can not only hide problems but even if it reveals them, be ambiguous as to which battery or batteries is the problem. The batteries have to be tested in isolation of each other or given their factory parallel connection a stronger one can come to the aid of a weaker one and throw off such a load test.

The load tester's negative lead is moved to the loose cable to test the ESS/Aux battery: yes, even as its positive side of the tester remains on the positive post of the main battery. This works because the only (completed) circuit formed with the load tester would, under this change, be just be on the ESS/Aux battery.

Reattach that cable you disconnected back on the negative post of the main battery promptly after the load tests.

Another thought, if the batteries need replacement but other underlying diagnostic issues remain, or you fear their might, then trickle charge while parked until diagnostics can be effected to mitigate the fear or actuality of parasitic draw as a proximate cause of some other electrical system defect.

It's also possible your ESS status is squirrel because the JLs electronics become possessed and act in weird ways under low battery conditions.

 

[Pismo61]

So you just remove the smaller neg, aux. cable to test the aux battery?Or both neg.cables?

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