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Stabilizer relocation lesson learned and Death Wobble advice

HungryHound

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It’s not readily clear that the Metal Cloak stabilizer relocation kit with the billet aluminum clamp will not work on the stock tie rod. I found this out after my first JL death wobble experience. Since the mount was not tight, the stabilizer did not function and I discovered that I have DW.

I am starting the identification process to determine where it’s coming from. Should be easy since most of the components are new with the lift kit I installed. I’m starting with a new MC tie rod so I can use the billet mount I paid extra for and get a beefier steering component to handle the lift and tires (MC 3.5” game changer and 37s).

HERE IS MY ADVICE FOR ANYONE STILL UNDER WARRANTY, THAT IS ABOUT TO EXPIRE: take the steering stabilizer off and drive the Jeep. That will tell you if you have a problem and you can take it in to the dealer before it’s too late. I can’t believe I have a TJ with 160,00 miles on it without ever having DW, but this JL with 45,000 miles has it.

Edit: replaced tie rod and drag link with MC 1tons. Much better now after a short test drive on a bumpy highway. Is the new, tight steering masking bad ball joints? Only time will tell.
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Metalcloak

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At 45K on the JL, consider looking at your Ball Joints as well. They have been known to start failing as early as 10K miles.
 

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Thing is we know the steering dampener only mask the issue, but this is a component to the eyes of Jeep and will probably do the easy fix as making sure the dampener work and nothing else
 

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Hmm, I could swear I ran the MC billet (and the Synergy one) on the stock TR before I went with MC steering.

Did this start specifically when you swapped the stabilizer relocation? If so check the track bar bolt, and pull the axle side MC bracket and check for ovaling of the holes in the stock axle bracket.
 

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HungryHound

HungryHound

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At 45K on the JL, consider looking at your Ball Joints as well. They have been known to start failing as early as 10K miles.
Thanks. Yeah, I should have ordered the Ballers with the tie rod. DW came back even with a new stabilizer put in the factory position. I knew that was something I didn’t really want to do in a hotel parking lot and was planning to do it when I got home. The DW combined with the bad roads around Red River have convinced me to get the ballers and drag link delivered and then I’ll find a shop to put them in while we are in Chama.
 
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HungryHound

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Hmm, I could swear I ran the MC billet (and the Synergy one) on the stock TR before I went with MC steering.

Did this start specifically when you swapped the stabilizer relocation? If so check the track bar bolt, and pull the axle side MC bracket and check for ovaling of the holes in the stock axle bracket.
When I checked it, the billet clamshell was max tight, but would slide on the tie rod.
The track bar bracket looked good when I swapped the stabilizer back to stock position.
I did see a post where someone got a little relief going to 9/16” bolts instead of the factory metric bolts on the track bar.
I’m thinking ball joints now since I went thru everything yesterday and only found a slightly loose upper shock bolt.
I did have the loose ball joint recall at around 8,000 miles so they’ve been suspect since then. Just don’t want to do that work on the road myself.
 
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HungryHound

HungryHound

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Thing is we know the steering dampener only mask the issue, but this is a component to the eyes of Jeep and will probably do the easy fix as making sure the dampener work and nothing else
I guess it depends on how insistent you are with the dealer. I got the Jeep Wave oil changes done at my dealer and had no problems at all checking the oil level and crawling under the Jeep to check their work right there in front of them. They know there’s a lot of dealer complaints out there.
 

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I guess it depends on how insistent you are with the dealer. I got the Jeep Wave oil changes done at my dealer and had no problems at all checking the oil level and crawling under the Jeep to check their work right there in front of them. They know there’s a lot of dealer complaints out there.
Lot of dealer simply changed the dampener to fix DW in the past, I have no fate in this situation ever evolved. I guess when you are down to your third dampener you can argue that maybe the issue is somewhere else.
 

GATORB8

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When I checked it, the billet clamshell was max tight, but would slide on the tie rod.
The track bar bracket looked good when I swapped the stabilizer back to stock position.
I did see a post where someone got a little relief going to 9/16” bolts instead of the factory metric bolts on the track bar.
I’m thinking ball joints now since I went thru everything yesterday and only found a slightly loose upper shock bolt.
I did have the loose ball joint recall at around 8,000 miles so they’ve been suspect since then. Just don’t want to do that work on the road myself.
At least axle side, 9/16" did not fit in my MC track bar.
 

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zouch

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i’m not claiming to be smart; seemed simple to me.

if you think the SS may be masking a problem, remove the mask and see what you’re really dealing with.

after my beef-up project i ran for quite a while without a SS.


That's an interesting approach. The steering stabilizer is known to hide the problem, so simply remove it. Pretty damn smart.
 
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HungryHound

HungryHound

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i’m not claiming to be smart; seemed simple to me.

if you think the SS may be masking a problem, remove the mask and see what you’re really dealing with.

after my beef-up project i ran for quite a while without a SS.
The trick is to do it under warranty so you know what is being masked before the fix is on your dime.
 

zouch

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with all the stuff i changed before that point, there wouldn’t have been a prayer of getting warranty coverage before it expired.
i wasn’t waiting my 37s based on warranty coverage.

EDIT:
besides, what would they have done; replace the cheesy plastic ball joints with more cheesy plastic ball joints?
not interested.


The trick is to do it under warranty so you know what is being masked before the fix is on your dime.
 

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In the later years I never ran a steering stabilizer on my old Long Arm 98TJ. Thing drove straight as an arrow. Good trick.

As for the Death Wobble at 45k- I've had friends with shops have JL/JT Jeeps come in with less than 1k on the odometer with Death wobble. FACTORY DEATH WOBBLE. That's the kind of limited factory option you don't want. haha
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