Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

CarbonSteel

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Okay, they also replaced 68483374-AC. They said the next replacement is the entire axle.
Ah...ok. They replaced the transfer case control module. The electronic locker sensor is not available separately.
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Jeepnjohnny

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Good evening everyone.

I took the time today to run through the potting of my locker sensors. This seems to be a very frustrating point of failure for all of us. I have experienced it myself.

Here are the DIY steps you can follow to properly pot the sensors.

**Keep in mind the amount of time required for the potting material to cure. Tacky at 3-5 hours. 24 hour full cure. Best to do both sensors at the same time when you can wait, at least, overnight.

Also, please understand that this is a temporary fix to an issue we all hope FCA is going to remedy. Hopefully there is, at a minimum, a part number for this sensor we can order through Dealers and Distributors**

Jeep JL TQ Specs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/complete-torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler/

Tools Required:
  • 1/4" Ratchet
  • 1/4" Drive T20 Bit
  • 3/8" Drive Ratchet
  • 3/8" Drive 10mm
  • 1/2" Drive Ratchet
  • 1/2" Drive 15mm
  • Drill
  • 3/32" Drill Bit
  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • Drain Pan
Parts Required:

These steps are the same for the Front and Rear Axles.
  • Using a 3/8" Drive ratchet, drain the diff fluid into your drain pan. Wait for the diff to finish draining. Clean the drain plug and apply teflon tape to the threads. Reinstall at this time.
1602464714957.png

  • Using a 10mm socket, remove the diff cover bolts.
1602464775652.png

  • Using a flathead (or finger tips), remove diff cover.
  • Remove the reusable diff gasket.
  • Using a 15mm socket, remove the R/H side Cap Bolts.
  • Remove Cap Bolts with alignment plate. Keep the bolts with the plate so they go back in the same spots they came out of.
1602464845373.png

  • Using a T20 bit, remove the screw holding the Locker Sensor in place.
1602464888664.png

  • Using a flathead (or fingers), disengage connector safety clip.
  • Remove Connector and Sensor.
1602464919467.png

  • Wipe sensor off using a shop towel or microfiber cloth.
  • Mark sensor as shown in the picture with a sharpe.
1602464965968.png

  • Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill 3 holes as shown in the pictures. Be VERY careful with this step as the PCB (Circuit Board) is located very close to the clear cap on the sensor. Drill at a very low speed, with light pressure. We need 3 holes for this work properly. One is used to inject potting compound into the top side of the PCB, one for the bottom side of the PCB, and one to let air escape as we are injecting potting compound. Without an air escape, there will be air pockets and this whole thing will be for nothing.
1602465011481.png


1602465033444.png

  • Inject potting compound as shown in the video. Once you inject the compound in the bottom hole, you will notice the air being pushed out first and then a rush of compound will come out when it's full.
  • Once the sensor is full, wipe the top side off with a shop towel.
  • Apply electrical tape over the two holes and set the sensor down on its top.
1602465448118.png


  • Wipe off any excess potting compound and fill the void in the back of the sensor with more compound. Let sit for 3-5 hours. Once tacky, clean the sensor using Acetone so there isn't any left over potting material on the outside of the sensor once fully cured.
1602465505989.png

  • Once cleaned, let sit for 24 hours. (At least 12 hours before reinstallation.)
1602465561579.png

  • Once cured, install sensor in reverse order. (Use Dielectric Grease on the connector and Loctite on the T20 screw.)
  • Install alignment plate and R/H side Cap Bolts. Be sure to TQ to spec. The TQ specs are different front to rear.
  • Install Diff Cover.
  • Service Diff.
  • Test Locker System.
Hello,

I've read almost all 32 pages of this thread. I have the problem with the blinking rear locker light even though the lockers work. Is it worth trying to clean out and pot my sensor now that the symptoms are showing, or is it too late and I need to decide on either the Tazer cable, or bypass to an aux switch? I'm still under warranty, but I'm guessing Jeep will put up a fight due to my Jeep being modified. Also, it's hard to believe that Jeep will replace an entire axel rather than replace a cheap sensor. Blows my mind.

Thanks,
John
 

Ospreyfe55

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Hello,

I've read almost all 32 pages of this thread. I have the problem with the blinking rear locker light even though the lockers work. Is it worth trying to clean out and pot my sensor now that the symptoms are showing, or is it too late and I need to decide on either the Tazer cable, or bypass to an aux switch? I'm still under warranty, but I'm guessing Jeep will put up a fight due to my Jeep being modified. Also, it's hard to believe that Jeep will replace an entire axel rather than replace a cheap sensor. Blows my mind.

Thanks,
John
My recommendation would be to get Jeep to replace the axle and then pot the sensor. If you regeared then it’s possible to maybe drill the holes and clean the sensor out real good then pot. And yes Jeep replaces the entire axle for a small sensor!

Also check out this thread too

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-had-problems-with-your-locker-sensors.75293/
 

mackh4x0r

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I don’t understand why everyone thinks the Zauto harness is the fix once the sensor has failed. From my understanding is the zauto harness just removes the service locker indication from your dash but the lockers could still lock or unlock without any input of the driver which if the locker is locked could cause some damage!
I never had an issue with my two JK Rubicons. Did they have the same sensor?
 

Jeepnjohnny

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My recommendation would be to get Jeep to replace the axle and then pot the sensor. If you regeared then it’s possible to maybe drill the holes and clean the sensor out real good then pot. And yes Jeep replaces the entire axle for a small sensor!

Also check out this thread too

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-had-problems-with-your-locker-sensors.75293/
Just an update. I finally got my Jeep to the dealership. They will be replacing the axle. It's on order and should be here in a few weeks. Seems so inefficient to replace axels rather than fix the actual parts that are malfunctioning. The only thing that makes sense is that they don't have the expert mechanics hired that can work on the precision parts of the diff and axle. It may be cheaper for them to keep replacing and rebuilding rather than the resource costs of staffing.
 

mgroeger

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Just an update. I finally got my Jeep to the dealership. They will be replacing the axle. It's on order and should be here in a few weeks. Seems so inefficient to replace axels rather than fix the actual parts that are malfunctioning. The only thing that makes sense is that they don't have the expert mechanics hired that can work on the precision parts of the diff and axle. It may be cheaper for them to keep replacing and rebuilding rather than the resource costs of staffing.
Ummm no. It is STUPID simple to replace the sensor, I've done it twice myself and it takes about 30 mins start to finish. In all seriousness if you are working as a tech at a dealership you can handle swapping the sensor.
 

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Ummm no. It is STUPID simple to replace the sensor, I've done it twice myself and it takes about 30 mins start to finish. In all seriousness if you are working as a tech at a dealership you can handle swapping the sensor.
I'm sure it's part of the warranty program with Dana. Jeep isn't going to take responsibility for components on the axle. They buy a whole axle assembly from Dana and it gets replaced that way.
 

mgroeger

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I'm sure it's part of the warranty program with Dana. Jeep isn't going to take responsibility for components on the axle. They buy a whole axle assembly from Dana and it gets replaced that way.
The pisser is Dana won't even sell you the part. They claim it's a Mopar part they can not sell. It's been FOUR years of this BS, you would think by now either FCA or Dana would be fed up.
 
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chevymitchell

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Just an update. I finally got my Jeep to the dealership. They will be replacing the axle. It's on order and should be here in a few weeks. Seems so inefficient to replace axels rather than fix the actual parts that are malfunctioning. The only thing that makes sense is that they don't have the expert mechanics hired that can work on the precision parts of the diff and axle. It may be cheaper for them to keep replacing and rebuilding rather than the resource costs of staffing.
It’s a parts hierarchy issue.

The sensor is a sub-component of a base part number Jeep purchases to install in their vehicle. It’s not a Jeep issue. It’s a Dana issue.

There are normally contracts giving exclusivity to a vendor for replacement parts like this. Once that contract time frame is over, then Dana will allow Jeep and other 3rd parties to have the opportunity to sell or create a replacement component. The part was designed by TE Connectivity, which has the rights to this exclusivity.
 

DHW

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Sooooo where are all these removed axles going? Reconditioning by Dana?
 
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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Sooooo where are all these removed axles going? Reconditioning by Dana?
If it’s like anything else, in order to control the market on your parts, they’ll likely be destroyed.

In the big picture, the number of faulty sensors is insignificant.
 

Dave928

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sure as shit looks like it. but can you get them?
 
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