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Installed beadlocks, now steering wandering - fix?

Roky

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See post 38 and 39 ??
I read those but still unclear what you’re looking for….. if it’s caster, I was running 6.3 and 6.5 (on passenger side to help with road crown) with mid arm kit. When I installed my long arms I was able to dial it back to 5.9 ish and still had the same feel…..

Jeep Wrangler JL Installed beadlocks, now steering wandering - fix? C7466D59-419A-4F7E-849B-CA1C9AC756BB

this helped me to run a better pinion angle so my bumps line up better at full droop. They barely hit at all with mid arms and higher caster….this is once you get past 29-30” extended, not as big a deal for less travel shocks…..you could probably benefit above 6 degrees with 5.5” ish lift… that’s the advertised height, I bet you’re pushing 6-6.5” over stock…….You’ll have to be more specific on what other numbers you need, I’m not a very smart man……? I need things spelled out and /or simplified ? ….
 

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On my more recent jlurd I went to beadgrips with 0 ET on 37s after 2 days owning. Went to -12 beadlocks on 37s within a few weeks, then went to -38 beadlocks on 40s after another month. Now after 13k off road miles, went back to 38s on the same -38 beadlocks. Was on stock steering until the last 2k miles in which I went with RPM/Steersmarts combo.

During the 10k miles on stock steering, no major issues. The only minor things I noticed was with the 40s on stock steering, a bit of a wobble after specific type bumps but was just temporary as I went to the updated steering components. Only other thing I noticed was the drag link would need adjustment after getting off of certain fun trails.

On my past Mojave, ran the 0 offset with 37s with no issues for over 12k miles all in the dirt with stock everything except an AEV 2 inch spacer lift, even heavily weighted down (bumpers, winch, good amount of recovery gear, rack, etc)
 

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I read those but still unclear what you’re looking for….. if it’s caster, I was running 6.3 and 6.5 (on passenger side to help with road crown) with mid arm kit. When I installed my long arms I was able to dial it back to 5.9 ish and still had the same feel…..

C7466D59-419A-4F7E-849B-CA1C9AC756BB.jpeg

this helped me to run a better pinion angle so my bumps line up better at full droop. They barely hit at all with mid arms and higher caster….this is once you get past 29-30” extended, not as big a deal for less travel shocks…..you could probably benefit above 6 degrees with 5.5” ish lift… that’s the advertised height, I bet you’re pushing 6-6.5” over stock…….You’ll have to be more specific on what other numbers you need, I’m not a very smart man……? I need things spelled out and /or simplified ? ….
Just as an example, on the JKU, there was a measurement for wheel base with stock axles and once you set that you could square the axles. What I have done so far to center the rear axle was set the axle so tire fit wheel well when drooped as centered as possible. I was wondering is there a recommended distance between axles. Tomorrow when I swap out the front springs I will finalize the castor and axle alignment.
 

Roky

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Just as an example, on the JKU, there was a measurement for wheel base with stock axles and once you set that you could square the axles. What I have done so far to center the rear axle was set the axle so tire fit wheel well when drooped as centered as possible. I was wondering is there a recommended distance between axles. Tomorrow when I swap out the front springs I will finalize the castor and axle alignment.
Gotcha…… when I installed the long arm kit I pulled measurements from various places on the frame, then axle to axle. I didn’t use any stock measurement, honestly I don’t know of any literature…… I do have all my short arm measurements written down so when I’m installing a 3.5” lift I can go ahead and set up the arms before I install them to give me wheel well center and 6 degrees of caster and rear pinion at 2 degrees down for straighter rear springs. Saves me a ton of time….
 
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joetimmons

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Aside from maybe hopping up to a 38/40 Nitto does 12.5 vs 13.5 tire width help/hurt/make no difference the 3.5" bs config?
 

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Aside from maybe hopping up to a 38/40 Nitto does 12.5 vs 13.5 tire width help/hurt/make no difference the 3.5" bs config?
I can only think of a wider tire being able to get closer to components and rub at full steering lock compared to a skinnier tire
 

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JeepinJason33

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Yes but the Mopar beadlocks were already pushed out from the stock +44mm offset. So it's 3.25" total.
So? There are literally thousands of Jeeps running the exact same wheels. This is the most popular size for the JL that KMC sells. We are not seeing a ton of posts around premature failure from running these. Neighbor has 85k on the same setup with zero issues.
 

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So? There are literally thousands of Jeeps running the exact same wheels. This is the most popular size for the JL that KMC sells. We are not seeing a ton of posts around premature failure from running these. Neighbor has 85k on the same setup with zero issues.
Plus the wider track gets you extra points on the CTI.
 
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joetimmons

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Be interesting to know what % of kmc’s BL rims they sell are at 0mm / -12mm / -38mm
 

JeepinJason33

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Be interesting to know what % of kmc’s BL rims they sell are at 0mm / -12mm / -38mm
You are overthinking it. You will want steering upgrades regardless of the backspacing once you put the 3.5" lift on it. I don't believe Northridge 4X4 even offers that rim in anything except the 38 for the JL and JT's...
 
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joetimmons

joetimmons

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You are overthinking it. You will want steering upgrades regardless of the backspacing once you put the 3.5" lift on it. I don't believe Northridge 4X4 even offers that rim in anything except the 38 for the JL and JT's...
correct at least for kmc
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