Cast iron steering box adjustment (no wandering)

[m3reno]

Well I did my final adjustment today on my 2022 JL cast iron steering box. I have 0 wander now! I did 3 adjustments about 1/8 at a time and did my final 4th adjustment today. Originally I placed my mark at the 9:00 position and now it sits at the 1:00 position. I have minimal to no dead spot in the steering and no wandering at all. Truly a joy to drive!

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[NateCO]

I was thinking about fiddling with this as well. My only concern with messing with it was not knowing how far I could safely tighten it without risking binding. Still, I'd love to see the backlash reduced if possible. I read in a few places that people had to heat up the adjustment bolt and lock nut before they could get them loose. Did you have to do anything like that?

 

[m3reno]

No, I didn't have to heat anything up. What I bought was chalk markers from Staples and marked the alignment of the center screw, nut, and steering box. Loosened up the nut using a 15 mm deep socket then switched to a 15 mm wrench to hold back the nut while screwing in the center bolt clockwise 1/8. Then tightening everything down and looking at the marks to make sure I didn't go too far. Just make sure you get the correct allen key that fits in the center bolt tightly, even tap it slightly to make sure it's seated properly. The chalk marker set came with 4 colors so you can use a different color each time you make an adjustment. It took 4 adjustments at 1/8 increments as I didn't want to take any chances of it binding. You'll know when it's perfect once you take it for a ride and can drive with one hand and not worry about trying to keep it in lane.

 

[dcmdon]

No, I didn't have to heat anything up. What I bought was chalk markers from Staples and marked the alignment of the center screw, nut, and steering box. Loosened up the nut using a 15 mm deep socket then switched to a 15 mm wrench to hold back the nut while screwing in the center bolt clockwise 1/8. Then tightening everything down and looking at the marks to make sure I didn't go too far. Just make sure you get the correct allen key that fits in the center bolt tightly, even tap it slightly to make sure it's seated properly. The chalk marker set came with 4 colors so you can use a different color each time you make an adjustment. It took 4 adjustments at 1/8 increments as I didn't want to take any chances of it binding. You'll know when it's perfect once you take it for a ride and can drive with one hand and not worry about trying to keep it in lane.

Did you ever feel any resistance as you turned the center bolt?

Put another way, do you feel it "snug up" or does it just turn the same at 9:00 as it does at 1:00??

Finally - how hard was it to get at? On an old car, I',m comfortable tearing an engine out because I can look at any part and tell you what it is and how it should be. On new stuff, I'm intimidated by all the layers of hoses and wires and all that stuff that I have no idea what it does.

Thanks.

 

[m3reno]

I did feel some resistance initially, but once I broke through the locktite the center screw moved easily. I never went too far to the point of the screw bottoming out.
Remove the air intake box and it's right below in front of the throttle body, very easy but make sure when installing the air intake the it wraps correctly around the air box

 

[NateCO]

Doesn't look like it's going to be so easy for me. The lock nut easily came loose but I couldn't get the adjustment screw to move. I could see and feel the hex bit starting to twist in the screw's socket so I stopped. Tried unscrewing the adjustment screw all the way so I could deal with the thread lock on my bench but that was a no go. It wouldn't screw out all the way. My only thought now is to try removing to top so that I can get it to my bench and try heating it up.

 

[zrickety]

Well I did my final adjustment today on my 2022 JL cast iron steering box. I have 0 wander now! I did 3 adjustments about 1/8 at a time and did my final 4th adjustment today. Originally I placed my mark at the 9:00 position and now it sits at the 1:00 position. I have minimal to no dead spot in the steering and no wandering at all. Truly a joy to drive!

This is great info. Are these clockwise movements with the allen bolt?

 

[m3reno]

yes, just make sure to mark all three points so when you go and tighten the 15mm nut your able to correlate the locations and how much of an adjustment was actually made.

 

[bdb5430]

Doesn't look like it's going to be so easy for me. The lock nut easily came loose but I couldn't get the adjustment screw to move. I could see and feel the hex bit starting to twist in the screw's socket so I stopped. Tried unscrewing the adjustment screw all the way so I could deal with the thread lock on my bench but that was a no go. It wouldn't screw out all the way. My only thought now is to try removing to top so that I can get it to my bench and try heating it up.

I had the same problem. I took a torch to it and I still couldn’t break the adjustment screw loose. Let me know if you have any luck with it.

 

[NateCO]

I had the same problem. I took a torch to it and I still couldn’t break the adjustment screw loose. Let me know if you have any luck with it.

Will do. How hot do you think you got it? My better judgement is telling me not to try and fit my mapp torch down into that small space, which means I'll have to remove the whole box. Winter boredom or a bit more desperation is going to have to set in before I take it to that level.

 

[Bombout800]

Will do. How hot do you think you got it? My better judgement is telling me not to try and fit my mapp torch down into that small space, which means I'll have to remove the whole box. Winter boredom or a bit more desperation is going to have to set in before I take it to that level.

Got mine pretty hot. Tried adjusting barely moved. Put heat on it again, barely moved. Put heat on it again and it barely moved. I have probably adjusted it a total of 1/8" maybe a little more and it definitely firmed it up but not 100%. I haven't had any wandering issues just slop in the steering. Even with the aluminum box. Still don't understand why there has ever been play. Got the dealer to change the box and nothing changed. Feels exactly the same as with the aluminum box. Everything in the front end has less that 3k miles on it. Everything is stupid tight. But there's 1/2" of play in the steering. It's annoying as hell. Other than that, it drives straight can be driven with a finger. 39" bfg mt

 

[unsavory]

My guess is they are this way to ensure there is no chance a steering box could lock up in extreme cold.

If they adjusted them so the tolerances were tight, they would be introducing additional risk.

All this because it's a shit design to begin with of course.

 

[NateCO]

I found this youtube video "Remove *RED* Loctite WITHOUT Heat!" where the guy uses CRC Brakleen to loosen red loctite. Searching around I also found multiple brief claims that acetone would work. I have no idea if red loctite is what was used on the adjustment screw but it might be worth trying.

 

[Kreepin1]

I've done this to a couple Saginaw boxes and my BMW, I assume the same principles apply here. All of these boxes "tighten up" as they go to center so it's important to have the wheels pointing straight forward or you will over tighten the screw. It's best to disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm and swing the pitman arm back and forth as you tighten the screw until you just barely start to feel some drag.

On the BMW I found someone got lazy and only adjusted one of the drag links. This left the pitman arm off center when driving straight which was where most of the play was coming from. Soooo, if you've lifted your Jeep and the steering wheel is off center (but doesn't bother you) that might be where some of the play is coming from. Once you adjust the draglink to straighten the steering wheel the pitman arm will be centered again...

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