How difficult is installing a full suspension?

[GATORB8]

I agree that the experience of doing it yourself is worth a ton, and will make you more comfortable in the future.

Don't remove more than one control arm at a time! Know how you're going to cut open the front brake line control arm brackets before you start. Make sure you have the allen (hex) to hold the sway links studs.

Because the SFA suspension is so modular, you can actually break up the steps so you can have some stopping points if needed. You do not have to change the control arms while you're doing the springs, you can actually install the springs/bumps without doing the control arms at all.

The rear is easier, and although natural approach is to lift the front first (at least for me), the rear would be a great practice run.

I would at least consider:
1. Rear springs, shocks, sways = Rear lifted, leave the bumps off so you can get to the control arm bolts later
2. Front Springs, bumps, shocks, sways = Vehicle lifted and drivable (with suboptimal caster and axle centering), you could actually drive it home for the night.
3. Control arms, one by one, track bars, then rear bumps.

Tools wise, make sure you have sockets and wrenches that are big enough. A big adjustable can help in a bind to hold the nuts, but you'll need the socket to break the bolts loose. You'll need sockets up to 24mm and wrenches up to 22mm IIRC. Alpine's have pinch bolts ,so you don't need a massive crowsfoot there, but make sure you have the correct allen socket for that.

If your impact doesn't have some real balls, make sure you have a breaker bar. As mentioned, some of the torque values are pretty high and you'll want to make sure your torque wrench is capable of hitting the numbers.

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[Tat2d_Ghost]

I am planing on installing the Teraflex Alpine CT2 2.5" suspension kit along with the Falcon SP2 3.3 shocks and 2.1 Steering stabilizer. I have a shop that will do it for about $1500, but I'm wondering just how difficult it would be to do it yourself. Thinking I could potentially do the install, and then just have the shop complete the alignment.

The biggest limiting factor is that I don't have a garage to complete the install - I do have a buddy's house where we could install it in his driveway, and figured I could split the install over two days (front/frear). I also have most of the tools (full socket set, impact drivers, torque wrench, jack stands, etc.) to install the suspension. Even have strong worklights should we need to continue into the night.

The most complicated install I've completed so far was removing the front bumper to install a winch, bullbar, and switch panel. It wasn't particularity difficult, just time consuming. I'm hesitant to take on a project like this, however, simply because I don't want my suspension falling apart at high speeds and crashing.

Anyone take on a job like this for the first time have thoughts on it?

You can do it yourself with some help.. I watched a few videos and did it in a driveway. We also replaced the whole steering system with Steersmarts to include the bracket (highly recommend doing its ll at once). BTW, I have no mechanical experience, but my friend did have some (not professional).

 

[Mikester86]

A very large torque wrench is nice to have and can be rented or buy a less expensive one with money saved by doing it yourself. As already stated you will be glad you did it yourself. Lots of help here if needed. I would take Roky up on his offer if needed.

I was inquiring for the OP. The extra room of the front end being on ramps helps a lot, especially with a large torque wrench and hitting 190ft lbs. Makes it easier to get to and torque them all.

 

[Tat2d_Ghost]

You can do it yourself with some help.. I watched a few videos and did it in a driveway. We also replaced the whole steering system with Steersmarts to include the bracket (highly recommend doing it all at once). BTW, I have no mechanical experience, but my friend did have some (not professional).

 

[NOIDEAWIAM]

Doing your own install will also make you more familiar with your jeep and give you the sense of pride when driving it around.

 

[gato]

Best way to torque the front lower control arms (190 ftlbs), which must be done with the vehicle leveled on the ground is to get a 22mm socket with a breaker bar on one side (wedged against the ground) and a 24 mm socket on the other with a long torque wrench. This way you can concentrate all your pushing/pulling on one side and use both hands, plus legs, glutes, etc

It is not bad if you do it this way.

My recommendation is to do front first (I like to go from harder to easier on my projects). But rear first works as well. Whatever order you choose make sure you break free (but not remove) all bolts that need to come off - this way you know you have all the socket sizes needed, nothing is stripped, etc. Then remove replace the parts as per instructions. For parts that need to be torqued on the ground, leave them to be torqued at the end. Rock the vehicle after it is on the ground on all corners so everything settles, then start torquing.

It is the most satisfying part, because you know you are done and on the home stretch.

You will actually miss how cool it is to torque those last 4 bolts to 190 ft lbs.


Another tip: to remove the springs, if you keep the opposite side of the axle up it allows more droop on the side you are removing/reinstalling the spring, and it often makes the angles to put the new spring better.

I did my first full lift install in my garage, after having done the winch. Honestly I'd rather install a lift than messing with that bumper and the tight spaces to work. The Jeep suspension gives you lots of room to work.

Good luck. You will enjoy doing it. (after it is done

 

[BDinTX]

As mentioned, you either need spring compressors (and a death wish) or you’ll need to get the Jeep high enough in the air that you can droop the axle far enough the springs fall out. This happens right before your brake line becomes taut though, so watch them carefully.

To get the Jeep high enough you’ll either need TALL jack stands (like for RVs) or some cribbing blocks. Normal people jack stands don’t go high enough.

After pricing tall jack stands I decided to make cribbing blocks. All nailed and glued with plywood top and bottom. Bonus: I can put them next to the front tire to stand on when working under the hood.

You’ll also have an easier time if you have two jacks. That way you can lift either side of the axle independently. Put left spring in, raise axle a tad on left so spring doesn’t fall out. Repeat on right side.

Cribbing blocks under jack stands:

 

[c20040215]

1. There are so many resources you can learn online before the job. Teraflex kit should come with detailed instructions and they have decent videos made on youtube.

2. Invest in the tools needed. Good and right tools

3. Safety.

4. Take photos along the way and share them with everyone. Or it didn't happen.

Good luck and enjoy.

 

[Some Random Guy]

I hadn't really touched vehicles since I was about 20 when I installed my suspension. I took high school auto shop and then had some "projects" I couldn't afford to properly maintain in college.
13 years later, I did the suspension/steering in my garage. It was a tad tight, but I got it done. Then I did a new tire carrier, all the electrical, winch/bumper complete with cutting out slots for recovery hooks, and learned to regear.
You can do it, but as others said set aside lots of time. I planned 2 days and ended up taking 3. Day 3 was purely torquing all the control arms back down, but I'm glad I didn't try to rush that. 100% you can do it. If it's your daily and you're not in a position to miss work a day with 0 notice, just take 2 extra days off so you never feel rushed and do something foolish (I made that mistake during regear).
Edit: then your last day can be enjoying it before you go back to work!

 

[GearWhore]

As others have already suggested, the install isn't particularly difficult, but it can be daunting and it will most certainly be time-consuming. My JL lift install included all control arms and both track bars. Took about 16 hours total over a weekend, by myself, with hand tools. But I have done several suspensions in various Jeeps and other trucks.

I'd also suggest starting in the rear, as it is a little easier and is almost a practice run/skill builder for the front.

Remove the shocks first. While supporting the axle. Then you can lower the jack slowly (or on one side). This will allow your axle to droop enough to get the springs out. Replace the springs, raise the axle with the jack, and install shocks. Watch the brake and ABS lines as you're lowering the axle to make sure you don't hang by those or break them.

Front is similar, but make sure you pull slack to the front axle locker wiring harness or you can break it at the differential (ask how I know).

For control arm install, I like to install them (one at a time) before I replace the springs. This makes the axle easier to maneuver to line up bolt holes and such. Use a come-along or ratchet straps if needed to rotate or pull the axle in any direction.

Fortunately, your Jeep is new enough that there shouldn't be any issues with corroded fasteners.

Watch some videos, scoot around under your Jeep to get familiar with what's there. I especially like to do so once I have all of the replacement parts laid out; easier to get an idea of what has to go where.

Good luck! Have fun!

 

[Jeepeto]

Well shit, sounds like I'm gonna install my own suspension soon. Appreciate the feedback and words of encouragement!

You got this!

It's a great project to take on with a buddy. You'll both come away a better understanding of how your vehicle works, and the confidence to take on similar size projects in the future. Take your time, double check the instructions and you'll be fine.

I'm sure you've been watching YouTube videos of lift installs, but if you haven't, take the time to watch a few installs before tackling your kit. A lot of handy little tips can be gathered by watching someone else do it first. This goes for the instructions as well, if you have them, read through them a few times before install day. Crawl under your Jeep with the instructions in hand and work out where everything is, and what's changing before you're laying on your back in a puddle of PB blaster on a Saturday night.

Some tools to consider.

Moving Blankets!!! Get 3/4 moving blankets (harbor freight has them for ~$7) and lay them out under your rig before getting to work. It will save your knees/elbows, tools, and shiny new parts from getting concrete rash all over them sliding around in the driveway. I cannot recommend this enough, it's a much more pleasant experience than rolling around on concrete for two days.

12v 3/8 drive powered ratchet - If you're wrenching on your rig at all, these things are fantastic! I recently picked up a Huskey that lives in the Jeep now for like $60. It won't break suspension bolts loose or tighten them to spec, but it'll zip them right off and back on once you've broken them free. It's a time saver, and works especially well in tight areas where you can't get enough room to "swing" your ratchet. Also works great for zipping off the doors/top in no time.

Big boy impact - 18/20 volt - 1/2" drive, if you can get one of the "big boys" 700-1000 lb/ft guys, they are nice to have for getting stubborn things to come loose (or break them, be careful). Much less important than the other items on this list, and quite pricy as well. This might be a good borrow item if you know someone that could live without it for the weekend.

 

[Jim1964]

One tool you won’t see that can be real handy is a ratchet strap. That’s for those times when you need to pressure the axle or something else one way or another to get it aligned with a bolt hole. For example getting a track bar in place.

 

[beast40]

Everyone pretty much nailed it.

1. The right tools, breaker bar, torque wrench, Impact wrench, great socket and wrench sets. (you get to keep them get some good stuff)

2. You need the Jeep up in the air more than you think to get the springs in.

3. Run the rear ebrake lines under the crossmember. (This step wasn't in my directions and led to a ton of issues during the install)

4. Track bars are really easy IMO, attach one end, bounce the Jeep a few times (tires on at this point) Attach the other end. You'll be close at this point then its just a tweek or 2.

 

[word302]

It’s not complicated at all. Like your bumper, nothing is particularly difficult, it’s just time consuming. Also, $1500 is way too much for a lift install. 4 Wheel Parts installs lift kits for about $700-$900 check if there are any around you. I think they even give a warranty for their work.

If you like your Jeep you won’t let 4 wheel parts touch it. Cheaper usually doesn’t mean better.

 

[KNN]

If you do it yourself, you’ll be better prepared to chase down any death wobble, bump steer or shimmy issues that result after you’ve installed your lift ? I was where you are 6 months ago, a see a light at the end of the tunnel…..I just hope it’s not a train.

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