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Upsidwn

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Yeah I’m working on the Motobilt rear towers at the moment to remount my coilovers, I’m curious to see how much modification those rear brackets under the d -pillar will need modified. Coming along nicely as well, i wonder how cleanly the b pillar comes apart from the top tube. You planning on Sawzall or angle grinder?


Jeep Wrangler JL GenRight Roll Cage Install 86AB7DB3-DB15-4A14-BFF8-04A45974E02D
Jeep Wrangler JL GenRight Roll Cage Install 7F4BA096-8634-46A4-99CF-BAB03EF06000

Edit

somehow missed your newest pics, can see you used the cut off wheel

When I had to drill the b pillar for my harness bar I realized how hard the structural steel was in that area and was surprised how many drill bits I went through haha
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Outstanding work your doing there. I build many things and have done work related mechanical jobs for fifty years I guess, but never this involved on a vehicle. I'm older and slower now but if I had the space I would consider "something" similar like building a scrambler JK/JL. Very well organized you are, which is extremely important if you are to keep your sanity during re-assembly . Really appreciate how you are filming and "recording" the work.
Something your young one may really appreciate some day.....Priceless!

EDIT: Taught myself to Tig weld several years back which does up my game a bit. A necessary skill for this project. Jody the weldmonger video's helped me greatly for that:)
 
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chevymitchell

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Yeah I’m working on the Motobilt rear towers at the moment to remount my coilovers, I’m curious to see how much modification those rear brackets under the d -pillar will need modified. Coming along nicely as well, i wonder how cleanly the b pillar comes apart from the top tube. You planning on Sawzall or angle grinder?


86AB7DB3-DB15-4A14-BFF8-04A45974E02D.jpeg
7F4BA096-8634-46A4-99CF-BAB03EF06000.jpeg

Edit

somehow missed your newest pics, can see you used the cut off wheel

When I had to drill the b pillar for my harness bar I realized how hard the structural steel was in that area and was surprised how many drill bits I went through haha
The D-Pillar is next. I'm cutting the A-Pillar now.

I'm using a standard 4 1/2 grinder with cutoff wheels. I needed the sawzall for the A-Pillar though. You can only get about 75% of the tube with the cutoff wheel.

I'll post the A-Pillar cuts next.

Oh yes... the factory cage is made out of a super hard alloy.
 
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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Outstanding work your doing there. I build many things and have done work related mechanical jobs for fifty years I guess, but never this involved on a vehicle. I'm older and slower now but if I had the space I would consider "something" similar like building a scrambler JK/JL. Very well organized you are, which is extremely important if you are to keep your sanity during re-assembly . Really appreciate how you are filming and "recording" the work.
Something your young one may really appreciate some day.....Priceless!

EDIT: Taught myself to Tig weld several years back which does up my game a bit. A necessary skill for this project. Jody the weldmonger video's helped me greatly for that:)
Thanks man. I'm trying to make it helpful for many years to come. I'm not a videographer or a "YouTuber", so this is just random pics and videos to help the garage wrencher in all of us.
 

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J0E

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Opus

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And I thought Tredsdert was a madman... :)

Seriously, I have mad respect for anyone with the cajones to tear into a perfectly good Jeep in order to make it their own.

I still haven't worked up the nerve to take a box knife to the air dams between the bumper and front fenders on my Sport S...
 
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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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Any reason you went with Genright over doing something custom yourself?

Does the cage tie into the frame at all, or would there be the ability to do so in the future if you want?
This is really a great question. I answered it somewhere in this forum a long while ago, but the brief answer is:
  1. The Genright cage was engineered along side Jeep engineers, especially for the A-pillar tie in point.
  2. You cannot fabricate a cage this precise, intricate, and with this attention to detail for anywhere close to the cost. The cage is completely removable, as well.
  3. The tube benders and notchers are tools you'll need. I don't do enough cage work to justify buying the tooling. If I had 3-4 cages a year to put in, I would have considered it, but even then, the cage would not be fully CAD designed. It would be designed tube by tube as most amateur cages are.
  4. Material cost. This tubing goes anywhere from $9-14 a foot. You'd need at least 90-100 feet of tubing. 1/4 of the cost would just be the tube, not to include all of the bracketry for the tie-in's, as well as any extra for mistakes.

That's just a few reasons. When you really break it down, you save thousands, and many weeks of time this way.

I was also #3 on the wait list which gave me the X-bar, B-Pillar chop, and the V-bar for free. They also split shipping with me since the cage I got had 2 prototype cage bars in the kit where 2 of the holes were welded shut.

The cage will not tie into the frame. It will, however, tie into the top of the body mounts for the B-Pillar. You don't want the cage to be mounted to the frame. You want things to flex. Only rigs with frame tie-in's are race or buggy rigs.
 
 







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