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They are, yeah. I had mine all ripped apart to move the pump and lines for the battery coolant loop and the dealer said all three were the same

Car-part has always been my go to as well

I see you made it in to Sam’s video, Jeep looked good. Hopefully see you on the trails

Yeah we’ll be down in Windrock twice next month! I mistakenly thought you were wiring to the rubicon locker switches, is why I was giving a warning, so you’ll be good. Driveshaft: yes, you should be fine, just make sure at full bump you aren’t making contact with the laminated heat exchanger...

Also for driveshafts… assuming you have an 8sp AT, make sure you call and talk to whomever your dealing with and tell them over the phone what you have going on. I originally ordered a ‘1ton’ shaft from adams just off the website for a JL and it ended up busting my trans cooler off the side of...

Bleeding the calipers on mine (fusion calipers on 60/80) was a bitch too, took the whole jscan routine etx to get it all sorted Id recommend just wiring the lockers to a normal switch panel if you already put a spod/switch pros in. I originally went elockers in these axles and wired them into...

Yeah no prob, give that video a watch if you’re more curious. I had to figure it all out on my own when I picked mine up as no one sold anything comparable with etq models so I had to go at it and reroute all the coolant lines for the battery pack, move the pump etx. If you have any questions...

I forgot that I’ve had mine out twice now… only took maybe 20minutes to drop the 48v battery in my home garage… but nvm yeah it’s impossible lol

No it’s a fairly simple process to take it out when needed.

There’s a few hour tech talk on YT from a fiat/Mopar engineer that designed the etq system for training dealer techs on how it works, maintenance and working on it. It’s fairly in depth but when I was doing my long arms and welding onto the frame I wasn’t sure the proper procedures on how to...

I was thinking if you went like 3/4 you could just bolt your hinges and latches straight to it and drill the top for the soft upper pins to drop into, no forming really needed just cut the outline and router or similar to smooth the edges

Can you get abs in a sturdy thickness (3/4”?) at a decent price?

I knew what I was getting into with them because I had them on my JK and the JL design hasn’t changed other than fitting to the different opening. Honestly they’re probably louder than just doors off with all the fabric flapping in the wind, they leak, gaps 1”+ all around the seals, they’re hard...

Absolutely… I’ve been tinkering with a similar idea myself lately. current offerings are expensive to trash on the trail, and my soft doors(like my JK ones too) are kinda trash on the street (noisy, don’t seal etc). At one point I thought about finding some 3/4” thick plastic and had some...

How do they attach to the cage at the top?

B pillar coming along good, I'm curious to see how fit up is after its chopped and plates are in, and how it attaches to the cage at the top. Will soft top door surrounds attack similarly to the tube like the factory cage, with a bolt up through from the bottom? Or is there a bunch of little...

Yes a superduty60 front and 14b rear. Cleaning brackets off a set aint but a days work and then getting them setup with gears and brackets isn't bad at all with the truss kits they have now days. A big reason I went with 'crate' axles when i ordered was to keep the ABS and stuff happy on this...

Sorry I should've included, I have the 60/80. Went 80 for the bigger ring gear, honestly should've just went with the shaved 14b

Fusion's, if you have the ability to do superduty axles its a no brainer IMO. The *downsides* to junkyard axles (random stuff not fitting, lining up, leaking, parts failing, reworking brackets and geometry, etc) still present themselves much the same with off the shelf fresh painted stuff. If...

My $.02 Elockers suck Went 72.5”, wish I went wider Shouldve built superduty axles Pretty much all off the shelf stuff sucks