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Don't buy MOPAR Beadlocks

DHW

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agreed; SAE J2530 is not the law; it's specifically the law i'm interested in.
I could be wrong, but I did a quick search on Westlaw and could not find any state that prohibits beadlocks in their vehicle code.
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cavguy

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agreed; SAE J2530 is not the law; it's specifically the law i'm interested in. (and note that SAE J2530 changes every few years too, so like the law, we have to try to keep up with it.)

i see that "DOT Approved" term flung around too, but in spite of searching on it, i haven't been able to find anything from the DOT that relates to actual "approval" either; can anyone show me any evidence that the DOT actually "approves" wheels?

we've heard a lot about this, but like many things that turn out to be misunderstood or just outright myths, when it comes to the law, i find when i dig, i find that sometimes we're simply misled. i'd like to know the facts.
If it were in the CA Vehicle Code (CVC) it would probably be here - Go Fish!;
https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/...ivision=12.&title=&part=&chapter=5.&article=4.

Then there is this "catch all"
https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/codes_displaySection.xhtml?lawCode=VEH&sectionNum=24002.

The CVC's don't actually reference wheels at all.. Just tires... So if you get a ticket for beadlock wheels and you are in compliance of everything else in the CVC and request a hearing, the judge might end up throwing it out unless the officer who wrote the ticket can point to a specific code violation.
 

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@@OllieChristopher
can anyone actually provide a link to the Vehicle Code that applies to beadlocks being illegal?
i hear "they're illegal" parroted often, but here in California, i've searched the Code and i couldn't find anything that related to that at all.

I asked politely a few replies back to give this part of the thread a break. It is entirely up to you if you want to operate a non DOT compliant accessory on public highways.
 

OllieChristopher

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If it were in the CA Vehicle Code (CVC) it would probably be here - Go Fish!;
https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/...ivision=12.&title=&part=&chapter=5.&article=4.

Then there is this "catch all"
https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/codes_displaySection.xhtml?lawCode=VEH&sectionNum=24002.

The CVC's don't actually reference wheels at all.. Just tires... So if you get a ticket for beadlock wheels and you are in compliance of everything else in the CVC and request a hearing, the judge might end up throwing it out unless the officer who wrote the ticket can point to a specific code violation.
LOL!! I can see this is going to turn out like every other beadlock thread. Just like an oil thread!! Poor OP just wanted to know how to prevent the bolts from seizing and now it has taken a turned into shoving DOT laws into the wind!!
 

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I have these and installed the rings with anti-seize, none have backed out yet. Had them about a year and they look just like they did on install. I had a 2013 Raptor that had Ford's equivalent beauty-ring beadlocks and the screws had noticeable rust within a year. Also this is GA where there is zero salt on the road.
I think he’s referring to lug nuts. I’ve got anti seize on both. I’ve been anti seizing lug nuts forever though and I’ll continue to do so. I put my hands on them every 3k miles and they’re never loose
 

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Rock Hopper

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I think he’s referring to lug nuts. I’ve got anti seize on both. I’ve been anti seizing lug nuts forever though and I’ll continue to do so. I put my hands on them every 3k miles and they’re never loose
Deez nutz?

Sorry, couldn't resist. 🤣
 

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I think he’s referring to lug nuts. I’ve got anti seize on both. I’ve been anti seizing lug nuts forever though and I’ll continue to do so. I put my hands on them every 3k miles and they’re never loose
I'm happy you brought this up Josh. I first learned of all the advantages of anti seize back in the 90's from a coworker that grew up in Canada. He used that stuff for virtually everything.

I too have not had an issue of anything ever backing out using it. Only exception were my KTM 300 hand guard mounts. They for some reason had to be tightened before each ride.
 

Rock Hopper

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I'm happy you brought this up Josh. I first learned of all the advantages of anti seize back in the 90's from a coworker that grew up in Canada. He used that stuff for virtually everything.

I too have not had an issue of anything ever backing out using it. Only exception were my KTM 300 hand guard mounts. They for some reason had to be tightened before each ride.
Perhaps we should contact either Mopar or the manufacturer of Anti-seize and inquire about the application of a antiseize product to a critical moving part?

I can see why it's effective on dissimilar metals however I would be more than cautious on lug nuts or wheels.

It appears blue loctite offers the same galvanic protection, isn't permanent and aids in securing fasteners, but I'm still not convinced that makes sense either. As I poster earlier it "appears" neither of these products should be used on wheels.

"It is generally considered to leave the wheel bolts dry. Threadlocker makes them difficult to remove and anti-seize may make them loosen on their own."
 

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I'm happy you brought this up Josh. I first learned of all the advantages of anti seize back in the 90's from a coworker that grew up in Canada. He used that stuff for virtually everything.

I too have not had an issue of anything ever backing out using it. Only exception were my KTM 300 hand guard mounts. They for some reason had to be tightened before each ride.
Perhaps we should contact either Mopar or the manufacturer of Anti-seize and inquire about the application of a antiseize product to a critical moving part?

I can see why it's effective on dissimilar metals however I would be more than cautious on lug nuts or wheels.

It appears blue loctite offers the same galvanic protection, isn't permanent and aids in securing fasteners, but I'm still not convinced that makes sense either. As I poster earlier it "appears" neither of these products should be used on wheels.

"It is generally considered to leave the wheel bolts dry. Threadlocker makes them difficult to remove and anti-seize may make them loosen on their own."
I’m not suggesting it’s proper or that it should be done by anyone. It’s probably a safer bet to leave them dry for many reasons. Use your own judgment on this. I do all my own rotations as well, having a lubricant on the wheel studs around some monkey at the tire shop armed with pneumatic tools could be problematic as well. I reduce the torque by ~25% due to the reduced friction on the threads, and I stay on top of my maintenance religiously. I personally have never seen any indication of wheel nuts loosening in the 3,000 miles between rotations. But that doesn’t mean it won’t happen.
 

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zouch

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If it were in the CA Vehicle Code (CVC) it would probably be here - Go Fish!;
https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/...ivision=12.&title=&part=&chapter=5.&article=4.

Then there is this "catch all"
https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/codes_displaySection.xhtml?lawCode=VEH&sectionNum=24002.

The CVC's don't actually reference wheels at all.. Just tires... So if you get a ticket for beadlock wheels and you are in compliance of everything else in the CVC and request a hearing, the judge might end up throwing it out unless the officer who wrote the ticket can point to a specific code violation.
agreed; that matches my findings to date as well.
to get a ticket, an officer would have to cite a specific portion of the code that was being violated; i'm trying to find out what code that might be (if there is any such code).

I asked politely a few replies back to give this part of the thread a break. It is entirely up to you if you want to operate a non DOT compliant accessory on public highways.
i haven't seen any proof that there is such a thing as "DOT compliant" wheels yet. to the contrary, i've seen purported evidence that the DOT says it does not "approve" wheels.
if you could provide any evidence that there is such a thing as a DOT Approved Wheel, i'd appreciate it.
(hint: just saying you don't think anyone should discuss something doesn't exactly reinforce your stated position.)
 

Wraif

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Exactly. This was the information I was trying to pull out. Specifically did the issue occur when the actual beadlocknring was used. I have have had these on my MOAB for well over a year now and haven't had a problem (I'm running the trim rings, not the beadlock rings).
Specifically the beadlock rings require a longer fastener (bolt) and that could be the problem. I'll wager that out of the thousands of these wheels that are out there, less than 5 percent of the owners that run these put never seize on the 125 fastener bolts. I would think we would be hearing a lot more about the fastener bolts breaking off considering the rings (beadlock or trim ring) MUST be removed to change tires.

I'm curious what could possibly making these fail so that others can avoid it.

Im aware some owners are putting locktite on these fasteners to keep them from backing out. Others may have relied on a tire shop to install/reinstall them, increasing the possibility of not properly torquing them, over tightening them or installing them out of sequence. Simply put there is a lot to go wrong. A proper installation of the fasteners takes hours, not minutes. Because of the specific torque and pattern required when installing the small 25 fasteners I installed mine by hand with a traditional torque wrench not a pneumatic one.

I'm not an expert by any means but putting never seize on a fastener that is on a moving part that you don't want to back out seems a little counter intuitive, which is why I've heard of owners using the opposite (loctite).

I myself would consider investing the two plus hours of pulling the 125 fasteners and applying anti seize if it will prevent a single fastener from snapping off in the future-however I don't want to add the possibility of the fasteners prematurely backing out. I'm just not convinced that is the root cause or solution...yet. I've been wrenching long enough and own multiple vehicles, boats, motorcycles (including 4 current Jeeps) to know some things are inherent and others are due to unusual circumstances. That's why this forum is so helpful. The more perspectives we get here the more we learn.
Which is why beadlocks are illegal in the first place. It’s VERY time consuming to run them safely. You SHOULD use never seize, you SHOULD check the torque on them frequently when used off-road. You SHOULD check them VERY FREQUENTLY if used on road. 99% of people running them won’t show that type of dedication to making sure that they are safe. You might start off that way, and then human nature takes over and the frequently get a little less, there’s so many other things to do, you just put it off. That’s when the crap hits the fan. I just hope it’s not on the highway with you family inside. Beadlocks are great, they are just a lot of work.
 

Rock Hopper

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Which is why beadlocks are illegal in the first place. It’s VERY time consuming to run them safely. You SHOULD use never seize, you SHOULD check the torque on them frequently when used off-road. You SHOULD check them VERY FREQUENTLY if used on road. 99% of people running them won’t show that type of dedication to making sure that they are safe. You might start off that way, and then human nature takes over and the frequently get a little less, there’s so many other things to do, you just put it off. That’s when the crap hits the fan. I just hope it’s not on the highway with you family inside. Beadlocks are great, they are just a lot of work.
All great points-however as I think has been pointed out, most (or a lot) of the people running the Mopar “capable” Beadlocks rims, are doing so with just the non functional trim rings (rash guards). They are purely aesthetic.

I think the rub here might be there are many other rims/wheels with and without trim rings which have a number of bolts surrounding the outer edge of the rim. It is typically suggested NOT to use any loctite or neverseize on these fasteners. I remain puzzled why these particular wheels would be any different especially when the manufacturer (Mopar) doesn’t recommend it.

To be clear, I’m not talking about the actual (optional) functioning beadlock rings. To check the torque on the trim rings (125 fasteners), “often” would be more than most people could handle. I’d be surprised if it’s done once a year…which is to your point.
 
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roaniecowpony

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Wow! those pics of the bolt/wheel show a lot of corrosion. Looks like a case of the OP not knowing the limitations of specialized off-road equipment and letting it go unmaintained. You just can't expect a steel bolt in an aluminum wheel to not need periodic removal, cleaning and corrosion protection. And that periodic maintenance would need to be done a lot more often on wet and salty roads. Those of us in the dry southwest can get away with much less maintenance on something like this.

And forget the idea of using stainless steel bolts in aluminum. That's what's called a battery. LOL

I don't like to use loctite in aluminum, especially cast aluminum. I like something to prevent galling the threads. The anti-seize stuff works for me.

This corrosion issue reminded me of something I saw on gun oils a few years ago. I ended up getting some Hornady One Shot for my guns after reading this. Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range
 

roaniecowpony

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Is there a recommended, reputable-manufactured set of forged rings, or rims and rings?
If I was in need of beadlocks in a region where there is a lot of rain, snow, and salt, or I just didn't want to do the maintenance, I'd go with Hutchinson wheels.
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