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Differential oil change

CarbonSteel

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I'll be breaking in, and likely running the 140W in both ends. That weight will have a bit of quieting effect with the front torq locker as well.
Grab some Valvoline 85W-140 to break it in and then switch to 75W-140 (Valvoline has the squeeze bags for their synthetic oil that makes it easy to fill).

If you were nearby, I could give you some 85W-140 for break-in; I have quite a bit left over from my last re-gear. Walmart had a 12QT case of it on sale quite a while back for $79.97 with free shipping
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Tncdrew

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Grab some Valvoline 85W-140 to break it in and then switch to 75W-140 (Valvoline has the squeeze bags for their synthetic oil that makes it easy to fill).

If you were nearby, I could give you some 85W-140 for break-in; I have quite a bit left over from my last re-gear. Walmart had a 12QT case of it on sale quite a while back for $79.97 with free shipping
I'll probably do that. It'll be all given (gears, kits, etc) over to our NC friend in early Jan. ?
 

CarbonSteel

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I'll probably do that. It'll be all given (gears, kits, etc) over to our NC friend in early Jan. ?
He does great work! I am now 12,400 miles into my re-gear and have zero issues. It was the trip back to CO from NC where I changed the oil every 500 miles.

I had mine REM Isotropic polished so that I would not have to do heat cycles on the way home (but still changed the oil every 500 on the way back).
 

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I wasn't referring to the tube. I was referring to what appears to be thread locker on the bolts in the picture.
It would seem that it would be the RTV variety on those threads but??? Red thread locker typically needs heat added to safely remove the fastener. All my diff cover bolts were easily removed without any heat or excessive force FWIW.
 

SloCal

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You also have to consider that FCA reduced the oil capacity (in the rear axle) from that of the JK series D44 and the D44 Advanteks run much hotter (even unloaded) than previous generations.
Excellent point to keep in mind. Makes me feel better about running thicker oil.
 

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entropy

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I'll be breaking in, and likely running the 140 in both ends. That weight will have a bit of quieting effect with the front torq locker as well.
Thats what I run, and I also have a TORQ locker. Yes it makes it really quiet. When I first installed my TORQ locker I could almost never hear it, with the brand new 75w140 oil in it. Only barely when on 4WD and turning. After a year I started hearing clicking when doing tight turns and very pronounce clicking on 4WD while turning.

I just replaced the oil and I can't hear it any longer. Kinda nice it tells me when I need to replace the oil lol.

My rear has the stock LSD and I run the same oil. I replaced the stock oil as soon as I saw all the issues people were having with the LSD, which was about 5k miles for me. Oil came out clean. I change it pretty often and it always comes out clean, not even small metal shavings on the magnet, just regular gunk.

I think there might be issues at the factory when they might forget to add the LSD additive, or maybe they dont add enough idk.

I use 75w140 royal purple. Probably a waste of money, but it has worked very well for me so far so not gonna play roulette with the infamous LSD.
 

entropy

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Ahh that makes sense. I didn't look that closely the first time. I concur that thread locker isn't needed.
Rancho front diff skid included red loctite and instructions said to add it to the removed differential bolts. I didn't use it. 3 years and 0 issues.

So I agree with this statement as well.
 

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I have run Lucas 75/90W gear lube, in all of our vehicles, for many years. I have never had a issue with this. But, I don't tow with ours. If I did, then I would run 75/140W in the rear.
 

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Thats what I run, and I also have a TORQ locker.
How do you like the TORQ locker up front? I drive on alot of icy roads so I'm worried it will be a handful. I still have the stock FAD so Ive read its not an issue in 2wd but can be tricky in 4wd on really slick roads.
 

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azwjowner

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I changed mine in both axles on my 2019 JLUR at 5K miles and the rear was the worst I have ever seen (you can search for the UOA test results I posted). I replaced the OEM oil with Amsoil Severe Gear--75W-110 in the front and 75W-140 in the rear.

It took 1.3QTs in the front and 1.6QTs in the rear.
Yes. I plan to do exactly this at 5000 miles as well and I already have those same Amsoil weights on hand. 75W-140 in the front is better too but I figure with the FAD, 110 is more than adequate.
 

azwjowner

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How do you like the TORQ locker up front? I drive on alot of icy roads so I'm worried it will be a handful. I still have the stock FAD so Ive read its not an issue in 2wd but can be tricky in 4wd on really slick roads.
I had a Torq locker in the front my WJ and hated it. It functioned exactly as advertised; excellent traction on rocks. But it means that a front tire is always slipping in a 4wd turn. I'd be in 4lo going uphill on a steep trail winding around a mountain, no locker needed, just a little bumpy, and with the large torque through the axles to climb, the locker meant that one of my front wheels would always be slipping continuously as I turned, and trying to force me straight (i.e. off the edge). It made me uncomfortable as it felt like quite a bit less traction in that particular circumstances vs. open axles.
 

entropy

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How do you like the TORQ locker up front? I drive on alot of icy roads so I'm worried it will be a handful. I still have the stock FAD so Ive read its not an issue in 2wd but can be tricky in 4wd on really slick roads.
Yeah I am a bit puzzled with some of the comments I see online because I have no issues with at all. I drove the other day on icy roads and turned 4wd on and had 0 issues. Did it drive exactly like stock? no, not really. Did it feel unpredictable and unsafe? nope it didn't. It just drives different. Maybe people driving styles affect how aggressive it is?

I'll try to explain as best as I can how it feels when in 4WD in slippery conditions (icy, thin snow, etc..). As you gradually increase pressure on the throttle you feel the steering wheel become a little "heavy" this is a gradual change, so it is very predictable. So if you are going straight and you rev up the engine and then try to turn you will feel a bit more pressure on the steering wheel to make the turn, meaning the Jeep wants to keep going straight. Now, I don't know why you would rev up before a turn but that's what happens. Naturally you will then get the foot off the gas and then the jeep will turn no issues. So this is an extreme scenario, and again, it is gradual. The more aggressive you are with the gas pedal, the more stubborn the jeep will feel like. Another situation is if you are taking a turn and then all of the sudden you rev up the engine, the jeep will quickly pick up the direction the wheels are pointing at that moment and go straight that way.

If you drive as you normally drive on snow/ice, you will barely notice a difference as it is my case. And any small steering wheel backslash you will almost subconsciously correct. If you are an aggressive driver then you might get into trouble.

keep in mind the JL TORQ locker was redesigned to be more road friendly than other Aussie style lockers.

I am personally really glad the Torq locker exists and it is the best mod I've done to my Jeep.
 

entropy

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I had a Torq locker in the front my WJ and hated it. It functioned exactly as advertised; excellent traction on rocks. But it means that a front tire is always slipping in a 4wd turn. I'd be in 4lo going uphill on a steep trail winding around a mountain, no locker needed, just a little bumpy, and with the large torque through the axles to climb, the locker meant that one of my front wheels would always be slipping continuously as I turned, and trying to force me straight (i.e. off the edge). It made me uncomfortable as it felt like quite a bit less traction in that particular circumstances vs. open axles.
Thats interesting. In the situation you just described, my locker will CLICK and I would turn just like the Rubis in front of me with selectable lockers. I've never had the locker force me to go straight in a slow speed situation.
 

azwjowner

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Thats interesting. In the situation you just described, my locker will CLICK and I would turn just like the Rubis in front of me with selectable lockers. I've never had the locker force me to go straight in a slow speed situation.
Even under heavy torque? Mine would click and unlock just fine under no or light loads. But the whole point is that when torque is applied to the axle, the Torq locker locks both wheels together. I found that under such circumstances, it was fully locked as long as the torque is present.
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