Differential oil change

[Wraith]

I just got my gears done and I am in the break-in period still. Looking at using the Amsoil Severe Gear when I do my fluid change at 500 miles. Seems to have good reviews and feedback here. Three bags should be enough but ill get extra so I have it for next time.

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[wibornz]

Rancho front diff skid included red loctite and instructions said to add it to the removed differential bolts. I didn't use it. 3 years and 0 issues.

So I agree with this statement as well.

Just know that at first I did not use loctite. While in Texas last year the bolts loosened up and sprayed diff fluid all over my camper and I lost about a pint before I noticed it/smelled it, then noticed all the diff guild sprayed on my camper. I tightened all the bolts back to spec. Four months later I lost two bolts out of the diff cover, bought two new bolts and added loctite to all the diff bolts.

 

[entropy]

Y

Even under heavy torque? Mine would click and unlock just fine under no or light loads. But the whole point is that when torque is applied to the axle, the Torq locker locks both wheels together. I found that under such circumstances, it was fully locked as long as the torque is present.

Yeap. Tight trails, going up steep rocky hills.

Thats not exactly how it works. Torq masters explained it to me in detail before I installed mine. The axle is always locked even if the jeep is idling. When you turn your wheels the extra torque from the inside tire forces the torq locker to unlock, therefore allowing you to turn. If the ground is slippery and you give it too much gas it sill cause slippage on one of the tires which will keep the locker locked. Because you are slipping. Thats why it is recommended to be easy on the gas on icy situations, to keep traction.

If you are driving on an icy road with an open diff and one tire loses traction and you give it gas it will send all power the the spinning tire. If you have a torq locker it will send power to the tire with traction even if you are turning. Thats it.

In an offroad situation if you are trying to turn and one tire is up in the air or with minimal traction you will have issues turning. The jeep with selectable lockers will turn the locker off and they will be open up front and on 2WD anyway because the front wont do anything. With the torque locker you can simply set the transfer case to 2WD on a strange situation like that, and itll be the same.

 

[azwjowner]

Y
Yeap. Tight trails, going up steep rocky hills.

Thats not exactly how it works. Torq masters explained it to me in detail before I installed mine. The axle is always locked even if the jeep is idling. When you turn your wheels the extra torque from the inside tire forces the torq locker to unlock, therefore allowing you to turn. If the ground is slippery and you give it too much gas it sill cause slippage on one of the tires which will keep the locker locked. Because you are slipping. Thats why it is recommended to be easy on the gas on icy situations, to keep traction.

If you are driving on an icy road with an open diff and one tire loses traction and you give it gas it will send all power the the spinning tire. If you have a torq locker it will send power to the tire with traction even if you are turning. Thats it.

In an offroad situation if you are trying to turn and one tire is up in the air or with minimal traction you will have issues turning. The jeep with selectable lockers will turn the locker off and they will be open up front and on 2WD anyway because the front wont do anything. With the torque locker you can simply set the transfer case to 2WD on a strange situation like that, and itll be the same.

That's interesting. My understanding was when torque is applied, the force of the cross shaft against the Torq's oblong hole forces the two halves of the locker apart, overcoming the springs, and prevents any racheting or unlocking because the halves are firmly pressed into the pieces that contain the axle shafts. That forces both wheels to turn in unison -- no slippage allowed. In any event, the Torq locker is not bad, I just did not like how it impaired my handling under heavy torque uphill turns. It definitely has advantages on obstacles.

 

[entropy]

That's interesting. My understanding was when torque is applied, the force of the cross shaft against the Torq's oblong hole forces the two halves of the locker apart, overcoming the springs, and prevents any racheting or unlocking because the halves are firmly pressed into the pieces that contain the axle shafts. That forces both wheels to turn in unison -- no slippage allowed. In any event, the Torq locker is not bad, I just did not like how it impaired my handling under heavy torque uphill turns. It definitely has advantages on obstacles.

Yeah being locked is definitely helpful. I am not saying it is better or the same as a selectable locker. But I do believe it has some pros over a selectable

1) cost
2) simplicity. It is a mechanical device with no air lines or electrical components. Potentially being a more reliable unit.

It has worked very well for me. But I understand it might not work for everyone.

 

[Merc]

You have the Tow package!!! DO, do use 75W140 in the rear.... Follow instructions here...

What many here do, is buy 2 bottles of 75W140 and 1 bottle of 75W90.

Now, you do your rear differential first and you will have left over 75W140.

Now, you do your front differential with the 1 bottle of 75w90 and also use what you need of the left over 75W140 to fill / top off the front differential.

Doing the proceeding saves you $..... saves you having leftover gear oil lying around...

For the record, gear oil companies state that there is no issue mixing the 75w90 with the 75w140 but to keep in mind how it impacts viscosity.

I just bought a case of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KB5LTJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (4 containers in the case) and also 2 bottles of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HQGCVG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These 2 orders, will give me what I need to do the 2 differentials twice. I save LOTS, going this route. In the end, it costs me about $55.00 total, to do the fluid change on both differentials.

Also, with the Flexfill packages, getting the oil in the diffs is easy easy.. And that single bottle, I'm using that is not in a Flexifill package ......, Well, I will pour that bottle into one of the empty Flexifill packages and squeeze that in also....

---->By the way, Royal Purple and Valvoline, both have the necessary additives, so no need to add Mopar additive. IF the vehicle needs no additive, it is aok to use gear oil that has additive..

what if no tow package?

 

[CarbonSteel]

what if no tow package?

Still use 75W-140. Dana recommends it in both axles, FCA reduced the viscosity in the quest for CAFE credits which is not conducive to longevity.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

what if no tow package?

ON EDIT - Read here - Important - https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/differential-oil-change.47318/post-2164230

For the reason @CarbonSteel mentioned, use 75W-140 front and rear, tow package or not

 

[flyer92]

WOW...like my old CJ and TJ, I thought changing the JL's diff oil was going to be straightforward, but after slogging through all 30 pages of this techno-drama I still have a few minor/related questions:

To clarify, I have a '21 2-Door Sport with tow package and LSD. Obviously, this means I have an M220 (D44) in the rear and M186 (D30?) in the front.

The Dana spec sheets are quite useful as a reference for the rear, but I can't seem to find one for the M186 front. The only one I've seen is for the M210. Can someone please point me in the right direction for the M186 sheet? Just want to confirm that Dana recommends 75W-140 for this diff before I invest in a case of gear oil.

Secondly, I am attempting to locate the torque spec for the drain/fill plugs on each diff....and yes, despite what I've read in the last 30 pages, my 2021 Sport has both plugs on both diffs.

Lastly (and this one is weird), the owner's manual lists "DRE/DRF" as the sales code for the M220, and this is consistent with what I've been reading throughout this thread. However, my build sheet lists a sales code "DSA" for the "Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle." I'm pretty sure my LSD isn't different than anyone else's, but I haven't seen "DSA" mentioned anywhere....just has me a little curious/concerned.

Really appreciate any/all insight on these points and happy Jeepin' to all!

 

[Heimkehr]

...I have a '21 2-Door Sport with tow package and LSD. Obviously, this means I have an M220 (D44) in the rear and M186 (D30?) in the front.

The Dana spec sheets are quite useful as a reference for the rear, but I can't seem to find one for the M186 front. The only one I've seen is for the M210. Can someone please point me in the right direction for the M186 sheet? Just want to confirm that Dana recommends 75W-140 for this diff before I invest in a case of gear oil.

Per p. 442 of the 2021 Owner's Manual, 75W-85 is recommended for the M186 axle (I've the same on my JLU). I've used 75W-90 to good effect; the used oil is still observably amber when it's drained.

I know that's not the Dana spec sheet that you asked about, so proceed as you see fit here. ?

 

[flyer92]

Per p. 442 of the 2021 Owner's Manual, 75W-85 is recommended for the M186 axle (I've the same on my JLU). I've used 75W-90 to good effect; the used oil is still observably amber when it's drained.

I know that's not the Dana spec sheet that you asked about, so proceed as you see fit here. ?

Thanks James! I saw what's recommended in the owner's manual, but after reading 30 pages of this thread, it appears that the consensus is to follow the Dana spec instead. Given my hesitancy to stray from the owner's manual, I wanted to confirm Dana's recommendation for the M186. At a minimum, if something should go wrong in the future, I'll at least have a manufacturer's reference on hand. Much appreciated.

 

[word302]

Thanks James! I saw what's recommended in the owner's manual, but after reading 30 pages of this thread, it appears that the consensus is to follow the Dana spec instead. Given my hesitancy to stray from the owner's manual, I wanted to at least confirm Dana's recommendation for the M186. At a minimum, if something should go wrong in the future, I'll at least feel better having a manufacturer's reference on hand. Much appreciated.

 

[flyer92]

Awesome...thank you!

I also noticed the torque spec for the fill and drain bolts on both sheets, but just a little surprised at the wide margin of 15 to 25 lb-ft. Granted, I realize these aren't dynamic or load-bearing components, but just curious what value most folks are using in the wild.

Along the same lines, I've had gear and trans technicians tell me that it's prudent to install new drain and fill bolts every time you perform this service. However, I feel that's a little overboard unless the bolts are damaged. Anyone else doing this?

 

[stumblinhorse]

Awesome...thank you!

I also noticed the torque spec for the fill and drain bolts on both sheets, but just a little surprised at the wide margin of 15 to 25 lb-ft. Granted, I realize these aren't dynamic or load-bearing components, but just curious what value most folks are using in the wild.

Along the same lines, I've had gear and trans technicians tell me that it's prudent to install new drain and fill bolts every time you perform this service. However, I feel that's a little overboard unless the bolts are damaged. Anyone else doing this?

I just snug and check for leaks. The wide range in spec is so their own techs can do the same without people complaining about too tight or loose.

Replacing plugs for me only happens if they need it…. i just changed the oil drain plug on my 350,000 mile Dodge truck last change…. still original diff plugs… seems to still be okay.

 

[Heimkehr]

...the torque spec for the fill and drain bolts...just curious what value most folks are using in the wild.

Along the same lines, I've had gear and trans technicians tell me that it's prudent to install new drain and fill bolts every time you perform this service.

Fill/drain plug torque: I just use my calibrated torque wrist.

Fill/drain plug replacement: I've never heard of such a recommendation, unless the original was damaged and/or allowing a leak to occur (which is just common sense, anyway). Otherwise, they've been there for as long as I've owned the vehicle.

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