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Changing oil but not filter

Atomic-Mouse

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Jeep Wrangler JL Changing oil but not filter IMG_4784
 

Maverick909

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The stupid oil filter housing makes me nervous and I want to leave it alone for as long as possible.
Why are you changing oil at 2500 miles? Standard oil changes these days are closer to 8k depending on driving conditions. You’re pouring money down the drain for nothing. Change the oil after 5k with a filter
 
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Here’s your answer straight from jeep
Plus it should be full flow Mopar. I don't understand what full flow means but I think we must not mess around with aftermarket oil filters 🫣 They say that technically oil filter is part of the engine.
 

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Dave K

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Say oil is changed every 2500 miles but filter every 5000 miles. What can go wrong, can the 2500 mile filter contaminate the new oil?
Thanks!
The practice in a shop I worked at recommended filter every other change. Never had any issues. I am told they make a spin on filter adaptor but have yet to check that out. Why Jeep went to this upside down horrible design is beyond me.

Jeep Wrangler JL Changing oil but not filter 2.JPG
 

flyer92

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The oil filter housing gets cracked they say. So don't want to mess around with it too much
If you are concerned about cracking the housing, just use a torque wrench so you can tighten it to spec (18 ft-lbs) when you replace the filter. That way you'll be sure you're not going to break anything. Additionally, I've seen many of these engines come from the factory with witness marks painted in yellow or white. Just hand-tighten to the point where the two marks line up and you won't exceed the torque spec.
 
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Jeep Junkie

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If you are concerned about cracking the housing, just use a torque wrench so you can tighten it to spec (18 ft-lbs) when you replace the filter. That way you'll be sure you're not going to break anything. Additionally, I've seen many of these engines come from the factory with witness marks painted in yellow or white, Just tighten to the point where the two marks line up and you won't exceed the torque spec.
Witness marks are a great idea. Like I said early in the thread, 18 ft lbs feels very tight and many agree with me. Last time I did 16 ft lbs and even that felt tight. Will do 14 ft lbs next time or maybe even 12
 

mgroeger

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Witness marks are a great idea. Like I said early in the thread, 18 ft lbs feels very tight and many agree with me. Last time I did 16 ft lbs and even that felt tight. Will do 14 ft lbs next time or maybe even 12
I used to make sure to have that o-ring and the matching smooth part of the housing very lubed up, tighten by hand until the o-ring hit and then BY FEEL tighten the rest of the way. Never had a problem and we parted ways with that Jeep at 90k miles.
 

flyer92

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Witness marks are a great idea. Like I said early in the thread, 18 ft lbs feels very tight and many agree with me. Last time I did 16 ft lbs and even that felt tight. Will do 14 ft lbs next time or maybe even 12
I agree that 18 ft-lbs seems pretty snug, but I don't feel like cleaning up a mess if the unit ends up leaking oil. Good to know that you had successful results at 18 ft-lbs though. I might try that too.

Just for fun, this sort of begs the question of what's the lowest torque that people have successfully used on the filter housing?
 

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mgroeger

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I agree that 18 ft-lbs seems pretty snug, but I don't feel like cleaning up a mess if the unit ends up leaking oil. Good to know that you had successful results at 18 ft-lbs though. I might try that too.

Just for fun, this sort of begs the question of what's the lowest torque that people have successfully used on the filter housing?
I use the Old Pennsylvania Dutch torque setting... "Gute en tight"
 

The Last Cowboy

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Maybe 18 ft lbs on a dry O ring. I'd knock that down to about 14 ft lbs with a lubed O ring. That is if you are using a torque wrench. And use a 3/8" torque wrench, a 1/2" drive is worthless below about 30 ft lbs.
 

mwilk012

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TIghtness of the cap has absolutely no effect on the sealing capability of the O-ring. That is simply not how O-rings work.
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