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jmccorm

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Overall, what was the summary/verdict for the JB4?

Overall a good tuner, but if you stacked a number of performance mods together, then you'd likely bump into the Wrangler's torque limiter which causes a momentary stall?
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Overall, what was the summary/verdict for the JB4?

Overall a good tuner, but if you stacked a number of performance mods together, then you'd likely bump into the Wrangler's torque limiter which causes a momentary stall?
Some vehicles are getting some sort of power cut in 1st/2nd when at WOT. It's presumed this is something in the ECU taking action to limit torque. This is on 91, 93, and 95 octane - so not octane related.

If you go with a custom map you can get a curve that works around this. I am running a copy of Map-2 but only in gears 3+ and zero issues.

Besides that one issue it's been a great product and zero issues. It really wakes up the heavy Jeep.
 

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Some vehicles are getting some sort of power cut in 1st/2nd when at WOT. It's presumed this is something in the ECU taking action to limit torque. This is on 91, 93, and 95 octane - so not octane related.

If you go with a custom map you can get a curve that works around this. I am running a copy of Map-2 but only in gears 3+ and zero issues.

Besides that one issue it's been a great product and zero issues. It really wakes up the heavy Jeep.
So for someone who rarely peaks much past 4k rpm's, this would be a reliable option? I noticed that my 2.0 seems to rev a bit more freely and quicker with the Borla Touring Climber cat-back. The mishimoto intercooler pipe and intake have caught my eye, but reading here has me thinking that a tune is needed to really benefit from the hard parts. I wouldn't want anything crazy and risk burning up the engine quicker, but an extra jolt in the pants would be nice. I think there's also a better blow off valve, but can't remember the company.
 

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Yup, that's the one! Had GB+ popping to mind, but was pretty sure that wasn't right. Thanks buddy!
Turbo tuning parts tend to fall in two categories, flow (catless DPs for example) and keeping pressure (charge pipes, upgraded DV/BOV). You probably won't see any real gains from the latter, especially without a tuner, but they allow you to crank up the boost without leaking.
 

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Turbo tuning parts tend to fall in two categories, flow (catless DPs for example) and keeping pressure (charge pipes, upgraded DV/BOV). You probably won't see any real gains from the latter, especially without a tuner, but they allow you to crank up the boost without leaking.
I've got a lot of years as a mechanic under my belt, but all of it was pre computer and never on the the performance end of things, so I'm a baby in the woods with tuning. I never personally hooked a laptop to a truck or piece of equipment, and the nearest thing to a computer in that shop was a fax machine. I'll also admit that I get spun around in these threads, but still have an interest. One thing I definitely picked up from you guys is that without a tune, there's not much point in dropping about $1k in bolt-ons without adding a tuner. I did add a straighter flowing 2-3/4" cat-back, that feels like it helped the engine climb the tach with more ease, but ground clearance was my main reason for that swap.

New York is a carb state, so I'm not sure if I'd get away with eliminating the cat. I wonder if adding an intake, ic pipe, dv, and a tune to my cat-back would fetch a worthwhile amount of pep. I tend to not venture much past 4k on the tach, so I'd be most interested in low to mid range gains.

Apologies for raising questions that are no doubt already in these threads, but again, I get lost in the dyno and all that engine management metrics talk. I understand the benefits of an engine breathing more freely and the better materials of the dv+ allowing it to hold boost better than the factory plastic valve. It's just the tuner and the tune itself that eludes me.

Also, I didn't care about the factory warranty when I still had one and didn't bother extending it, so that's not a concern. Only concern is not going too wild to the point of threatening the engines lifespan.
 

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New York is a carb state, so I'm not sure if I'd get away with eliminating the cat. I wonder if adding an intake, ic pipe, dv, and a tune to my cat-back would fetch a worthwhile amount of pep. I tend to not venture much past 4k on the tach, so I'd be most interested in low to mid range gains.
I don't know about New York, but I also live in a CARB state. The way I see it you have three options for aftermarket parts:
  1. be completely CARB legal (with stock parts or aftermarket parts that have E.O. numbers), or...
  2. choose products that can be hidden or look stock and also doesn't interfere with the OBDII readiness monitors, or...
  3. revert to stock every inspection cycle and hope you don't get pulled over by a cop that knows what to look for.
CARB legal intakes are pretty easy to find (#1). The JB4, intercooler pipe, and DV+ might be an option for #2 if you keep the OEM engine cover, but even a CARB legal intake could cause an emissions inspector to inspect more thoroughly than they otherwise would have if everything looked stock at first glance... and potentially finding things that would have previously gone overlooked. A cat delete is definitely in #3.

Also some states have started checking the tune itself to make sure it's CARB certified, ruling out the DiabloSport tuning options. This isn't an issue with the JB4 and other piggybacks, since they are untraceable through the OBDII port.
 

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At this point it's not a problem as I don't know of things like non CARB parts being a problem. There are plenty of people running around in places like NY with parts that are not CARB legal and yet they make it through inspection. The way I look at it is that if you want to modify a vehicle, then you will need to take the responsibility if it's rejected for inspection. If you really worry about it, then just leave it stock. I feel that it's nice to have more power but it's not a necessity. So in essence, a luxury.

Here in PA, for tunes, I not seen a car get rejected for it. Not saying it can;t happen but as of today, it will work. I have a JB4 on my VW since 2016. It works and if I want, I can remove it. So in the end, not a bad piece of kit for a plug and play. I'm not looking for hot rod performance, just something that made it a bit better. In my opinion, my Jeep has way more power than it needs. I do understand that people want more. I guess it's when I work on lder Jeeps and they are literally dog slow to what I have. So, it's funny to me as to how the bar has been raised as to what we want.
 

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I don't know about New York, but I also live in a CARB state. The way I see it you have three options for aftermarket parts:
  1. be completely CARB legal (with stock parts or aftermarket parts that have E.O. numbers), or...
  2. choose products that can be hidden or look stock and also doesn't interfere with the OBDII readiness monitors, or...
  3. revert to stock every inspection cycle and hope you don't get pulled over by a cop that knows what to look for.
CARB legal intakes are pretty easy to find (#1). The JB4, intercooler pipe, and DV+ might be an option for #2 if you keep the OEM engine cover, but even a CARB legal intake could cause an emissions inspector to inspect more thoroughly than they otherwise would have if everything looked stock at first glance... and potentially finding things that would have previously gone overlooked. A cat delete is definitely in #3.

Also some states have started checking the tune itself to make sure it's CARB certified, ruling out the DiabloSport tuning options. This isn't an issue with the JB4 and other piggybacks, since they are untraceable through the OBDII port.
My inspection guy runs a by the books type of shop, so he doesn't do blub stickers and I wouldn't ask him to. As long as the cel is unlit, all sensors are reading, lights work, horn works, brakes are good, and the front windows aren't tinted it goes through. It's usually done in about 20 minutes and he's never popped the hood, so as long as I leave the cat alone and the o2 sensors are happy, I'm confident that I can do whatever else and it wouldn't blip the radar. If I can get some decent low and mid gains with the stock downpipe and cat, I'll start collecting the underhood bits.
 

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I've got a lot of years as a mechanic under my belt, but all of it was pre computer and never on the the performance end of things, so I'm a baby in the woods with tuning. I never personally hooked a laptop to a truck or piece of equipment
So this wasn't you?

Jeep Wrangler JL Burger JB4 tuning available now carb tunin


One thing I definitely picked up from you guys is that without a tune, there's not much point in dropping about $1k in bolt-ons without adding a tuner. I did add a straighter flowing 2-3/4" cat-back, that feels like it helped the engine climb the tach with more ease, but ground clearance was my main reason for that swap.
I think you did the one of the few mods that makes sense without a tune. For sound and ground clearance!

New York is a carb state, so I'm not sure if I'd get away with eliminating the cat. I wonder if adding an intake, ic pipe, dv, and a tune to my cat-back would fetch a worthwhile amount of pep.
I don't remember a year I haven't had a vehicle without a CAT pass emissions here in NY, multiple different locations as I don't have a "guy". I have the CEL tuned out and the only way to know is via visual inspection and maybe your sniffer but NY doesn't do that, most of the time these are car guys and as long as you don't have anything else unsafe they turn a blind eye IMHO.

I tend to not venture much past 4k on the tach, so I'd be most interested in low to mid range gains.
And this is where it isn't worth it for you. The gains come from beyond here. Now you may slightly benefit from an ECU tune(Which on this platform means you replace the ECU with a new one that is "cracked" to accept changes) but the JB4 is a piggy back system which just fools the stock ECU.

I love spending other peoples money thou so if you need positives reasons, let me know, I'll give you a bunch! As you said you are comfortable with turning it up as long as the engine is still healthy and well in the Alfa platform they are pushed pretty hard with good results! Albeit they have a different head design...
 

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So this wasn't you?

carb tuning.jpg




I think you did the one of the few mods that makes sense without a tune. For sound and ground clearance!



I don't remember a year I haven't had a vehicle without a CAT pass emissions here in NY, multiple different locations as I don't have a "guy". I have the CEL tuned out and the only way to know is via visual inspection and maybe your sniffer but NY doesn't do that, most of the time these are car guys and as long as you don't have anything else unsafe they turn a blind eye IMHO.



And this is where it isn't worth it for you. The gains come from beyond here. Now you may slightly benefit from an ECU tune(Which on this platform means you replace the ECU with a new one that is "cracked" to accept changes) but the JB4 is a piggy back system which just fools the stock ECU.

I love spending other peoples money thou so if you need positives reasons, let me know, I'll give you a bunch! As you said you are comfortable with turning it up as long as the engine is still healthy and well in the Alfa platform they are pushed pretty hard with good results! Albeit they have a different head design...
First off, that picture is funny as hell!
Jeep Wrangler JL Burger JB4 tuning available now giphy (6)


The shop that does my yearly sticker never even pops the hood. As long as the cel is dark, they only plug in to make sure I didn't disconnect the battery before showing up. Something about sensors needing certain amounts of time, mileage, or heat cycles to fully read.

Thanks for the insight!

I thought I had read about one of these tuners being focused on the low to mid rpm's. If I'm mistaken and it's all on the big end, than yeah its not worth me going down this path. The factory 2.0 is no slouch. Shorter gears to combat the larger tires would probably be a more worthwhile performance boost for my particular setup.

Thanks for the insight and the laugh!
 

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My inspection guy runs a by the books type of shop, so he doesn't do blub stickers and I wouldn't ask him to. As long as the cel is unlit, all sensors are reading, lights work, horn works, brakes are good, and the front windows aren't tinted it goes through. It's usually done in about 20 minutes and he's never popped the hood, so as long as I leave the cat alone and the o2 sensors are happy, I'm confident that I can do whatever else and it wouldn't blip the radar. If I can get some decent low and mid gains with the stock downpipe and cat, I'll start collecting the underhood bits.
Here in PA you need to pop the hood on most cars as the battery needs to be properly secured. You'd be amazed how people think a bungee cord is what they think is good enough.
 

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Here in PA you need to pop the hood on most cars as the battery needs to be properly secured. You'd be amazed how people think a bungee cord is what they think is good enough.
New York is very strict on emissions. As long as everything else is in good functional condition. Although, going by the book, a vehicle can still pass with the abs light lit if the brakes are otherwise still functioning properly.

I ve heard the PA is strict about equipment being properly secured. I've also heard that they won't pass a vehicle with tire poke. There's been contradicting comments made concerning out of state visitors being pulled over and ticketed for poke. Those comments have been from both PA residents and locals I've run into on long Island who like visiting AAOA, Rausch, and Famous Reading. I've yet to find out firsthand.
 

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The shop that does my yearly sticker never even pops the hood. As long as the cel is dark, they only plug in to make sure I didn't disconnect the battery before showing up. Something about sensors needing certain amounts of time, mileage, or heat cycles to fully read.
Yes, we discovered that when I'd go over to my neighbor's place on a near-weekly basis to extinguish the CEL light on his Dodge Dakota. He was chasing a fuel system error code that was eventually and correctly identified, but not before replacing a few parts that didn't themselves require replacement.

Eventually, the annual inspection sticker came due, but he didn't pass despite me using my code reader to turn off the CEL light and, presumably, clear the underlying codes. The shop advised him that the vehicle must be driven at least 50 miles, without the underlying problem(s) reoccurring, before the CEL code was automatically erased from the ECU. 'Twas the "hidden" and unresolved code hiding in that black box that was detected by the shop's emissions computer.

That Dakota was traded a few years later on, of all things, a 2020 JLU Rubicon SOT. So there you go!
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