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Beadlock fail at SEMA causes broken leg

ColoradoMike

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I have run BLs off and on over the years and my last set I put on 88,XXX miles . IMO IF you are a serious rock crawler you need BLs if want to play at the 7+ rated trails and you do it often.

I run Walker Evans BLs. With Grade 8

As for why that ring came off in the OP could be several reasons: Bad or poor qualty wheel with to much improper and abusive handling. Failure to replace bolts on a regular basis. OVER TORQUING the bolts/NOT using a Torque wrench. Made in China. When he went to set the bead he had already torqued down the bead, tire did not want to set and he pumped up the psi and he pumped up the psi and he pumped up the psi and it took the BL with it when it exploded. I do see an explosion might have taken place by the looks of the tire/wheel/bead lock in the FOTO.

A torque wrench is critical at times and BLs are one of them. I been using them since the 60s and at one time I worked in a Zero Defect environment and we torqued everything. What is it like to work in a ZD enviro? For one every day, you draw and turn in at the end of the day your torque wrenches. WHY? They are calibrated every single day, you have 2 sets as a result. Then there is the inspection. Well, you never work longer than about 15 min. You have a job card and it specifies which bolts, what torque, and a diagram of the location. You torque down and call an Inspector, who has his own torque wrench and inspects 100% of your work. He then calls in another inspector who inspects the workpiece at a not less than 50% and his job card will tell him which are the most critical that must be passed and then his option to inspect level 2 bolts. It was interesting work, take a break anytime you felt like it, no rush to finish. You will NEVER have a job with higher stress so they want to keep you happy and focused.

Here is how I do it:

The tire is on the wheel.

I mount the wheels and tires on the Jeep and begin to torque the Bead Ring down. Walker Evans calls for 20 ft-lbs and I use a different system to torque down than I do for removal. I start out by installing a bolt in every other hole and then I GENTLY-finger tight, snug it up. I then install the other bolts and do same.

I now watch the gap between the BR and the rim and I go around cranking each bolt down, every other one, then each one I skipped. I turn my torque wrench about 1ā„2 turn each time until I get my first click. Then I proceed to do every bolt in order until each clicks. Then I go around one more time to confirm my first click. As you can guess, it is slow and takes about 10 or so cycles to get it finally torqued down. I use this method for several reasons. Yes it's about a 2 + hr job just for the torquing of the bolts.

ā€¢ 1) All of the bolts are quite close together,

ā€¢ 2) Because the ring itself is much softer than the wheel one has to be careful not to distort the ring which using the criss-cross method can easily do,

ā€¢ 3) This method allows a very fine yet slow torque method that ensures the bolts do not come loose.

ā€¢ 4) I do this once or twice a year depending upon how much I am wheeling. Every year I replace all my bolts with gold-zinc grade 8. WHY? Corrosion and the bolt heads take a real beating in the rocks

ā€¢ 5) I put my bolts in semi-dry. I use a clean white towel with a spray, NOT wet, barely damp of WD 40. NOTE I power-washed my wheels and removed minor scratches the day before, leaving my wheels in the sun to dry.



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Holy shite!! Okay, so please briefly help an ignorant non-mechanic (thatā€™s me): I got a Jlur Xtreme Recon for the factory package of 35s plus lift plus gears. It comes with ā€œbeadlock-CAPABLE ā€œ wheels. I have left the stock KO2s on there and after reading this thread, I will never go bead-lock, because I am not this committed.
SO, if I have these beadlock-capable wheels but I never go with beadlock tires, do I have to worry about all this super-careful torque shite and replacing bolts etc.? Or can I ā€œtrustā€ the dude at Discount to rotate and eventually replace/mount my tires the same as if I did not have the XR beadlock-capable wheels? I donā€™t want to have to babysit the mechanic.
I know some will say you shouldnā€™t trust the discount guy regardless and thatā€™s fine, but my question is Do I have to be more careful/pay more attention because I got the beadlock-capable wheels stock with the XR?
Thanks-
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Craigger

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Holy shite!! Okay, so please briefly help an ignorant non-mechanic (thatā€™s me): I got a Jlur Xtreme Recon for the factory package of 35s plus lift plus gears. It comes with ā€œbeadlock-CAPABLE ā€œ wheels. I have left the stock KO2s on there and after reading this thread, I will never go bead-lock, because I am not this committed.
SO, if I have these beadlock-capable wheels but I never go with beadlock tires, do I have to worry about all this super-careful torque shite and replacing bolts etc.? Or can I ā€œtrustā€ the dude at Discount to rotate and eventually replace/mount my tires the same as if I did not have the XR beadlock-capable wheels? I donā€™t want to have to babysit the mechanic.
I know some will say you shouldnā€™t trust the discount guy regardless and thatā€™s fine, but my question is Do I have to be more careful/pay more attention because I got the beadlock-capable wheels stock with the XR?
Thanks-
From the factory, the wheels are just normal rims - not beadlocks. You have nothing to worry about.

As far as trusting Discount Tires - they won't do anything to make a ring explode off the rim but they may scratch the $hit out of the 'beauty rings'.
 

ColoradoMike

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[QUOTE="Craigger, post: 2153165, member: 43189"As far as trusting Discount Tires - they won't do anything to make a ring explode off the rim but they may scratch the $hit out of the 'beauty rings'.
[/QUOTE]
The rocks on Poison Spider and Spring Creek have already done that aplentyā€”not a problem! šŸ˜€
 

Old Jeeper

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Does the manufacturer of the wheel have any recommendations on lubricant?

When trying to bolt something together we usually want the bolts to be pulling the items together a certain amount. We don't really care what the torque reading is but unfortunately we can't easily measure tension in the bolts so we measure torque. When tightening bolts a lot of the torque goes into overcoming friction, not creating tension. I've watched structural bolt tests using a Skidmore-Wilhelm machine and the bolt tension at the same torque reading can vary widely depending on the condition of the bolt and nuts and the type of lubricant. And WD40 is not much of a lubricant. If you look at the Fastenal chart someone published it has information on bolt coating and lubricant and how the clamping force (tension) will vary. In that chart there is almost a 2:1 range of clamping force depending on bolt coating and lubricant. What they don't cover is dirty rusted fasteners which will develop even less clamping force. I bring up the dirty/rusty condition because that can happen around a construction site where high strength bolts are used to make bolted connections in structural steel. Common structural bolts would be approximately grade 5, but there are some that are about equal to grade 8.
I don't remember the mfg specifics on installing. After 45 years of passion wheeling all over the world, I finally hung my spurs, sold all my Jeeps and my shop, and called it quits.

So why did I use WD 40? I power washed my wheels, this cleaned them and also the bolt holes, which is why I left them out to dry I lived in Scottsdale and it is HOT there) but on the possibility, there is residual moisture I put used the WD. I took a clean white shop rag, 100% cotton terry and sprayed WD on it then used it to wipe and twist my fresh Grade 8s. What I was looking for was possible dirt from the bin or box they were in and or the possibility there was a burr on the threads...why I like cotton terry if there is a burr you catch it for sure. WD has a very short lube life and no residual.

Certainly, some folks might say I go to far in my approach. But working in a Zero Defect enviro taught me a lot, I worked in a clean room, with purified air, and no dust, we changed out of our clothes and wore clean suits that did not have fuzz or fabric that would fuzz up. Wore special shoes and leg garters that prevented static electricity. And the phrase: 'you only have one chance to do it right the first time had absolute meaning there was not a second chance in what we did. It was a job where if you ever made a mistake, you never know it but the rest of the world would!

Since it is only 20 lbs of torque you really had to care about everything, you easily have less or more with ease vs clamping down on a bolt that requires 100 ft-lbs. The margin for error on 20 ft-lbs is not big at all on a BL ring. I use grade 8 because I have seen Grade 5 lose a head in the rocks.

Every interaction between torque wrenches and bolts is addressed somewhat differently depending up many many factors from my ZERO Defect where we calibrated daily to a garage that has ever calibrated anything.

Thank you for you comment and I hope I answered your interest...
 

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Old Jeeper

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Rock scratches on your wheels are a badge of honor!
I would stop a Wheel House over in town and for $65 bucks they take all but the deepest gouges they polish up my wheels. I did this when I bought new tires and had removed them and the bead ring.

I repainted under my Jeep after every big weekend long wheeling, power wash and paint, Walmart semi-gloss black, $0.97 a can. Not for looks, but for a purpose...
 

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Not trying to ā€œbuckā€œ the info given(see what I did there :CWL:). But why does everyone think bead locks are not DOT approved? Because they need maintenance? Because they work as good as traditional mounted tires?
Because they aren't. Last time I checked (a LONG time ago), DOT does not have any regulation specific to beadlocks, it's therefore impossible to have DOT approval.

I heard that you can't purchase beadlocks in California, but if you already have them, you can keep them, but you can't transfer ownership to anyone else. Also, if you have them on your vehicle, you can only go directly to and from registered trails.
Gun guy.

You can purchase beadlocks all day long in SoCal.
You can transfer to anyone you please.
I run beadlocks on my daily driver, on the street, on the freeway etc. Been running beadlocks for years in SoCal.
Not a gun guy.

yeah i almost bought a set a few years ago. Thank goodness i didnt. I have yet to even attempt to tackle anything gnarly enough to warrant their usage.

and i live in CA, didnt want to go through the hassle of the background check and two week waiting period.
Another gun guy.
 

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Not a gun guy.



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Not a good judge of character.
 

Old Jeeper

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Holy shite!! Okay, so please briefly help an ignorant non-mechanic (thatā€™s me): I got a Jlur Xtreme Recon for the factory package of 35s plus lift plus gears. It comes with ā€œbeadlock-CAPABLE ā€œ wheels. I have left the stock KO2s on there and after reading this thread, I will never go bead-lock, because I am not this committed.
SO, if I have these beadlock-capable wheels but I never go with beadlock tires, do I have to worry about all this super-careful torque shite and replacing bolts etc.? Or can I ā€œtrustā€ the dude at Discount to rotate and eventually replace/mount my tires the same as if I did not have the XR beadlock-capable wheels? I donā€™t want to have to babysit the mechanic.
I know some will say you shouldnā€™t trust the discount guy regardless and thatā€™s fine, but my question is Do I have to be more careful/pay more attention because I got the beadlock-capable wheels stock with the XR?
Thanks-
Several have answered and I concur with the comments. Its just capable of being a bead lock .

That said there a price to pay if you run BLs and its maintenance. Its not every day, but even if you just an asphalt driver you still would need to check the torque on BL ring on at least an annual basis and do a walk-around inspection every time you stop, looking for a possible bolt that is worked loose or missing. If not hardcore rock guy, leave them alone
 

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6.2Blazer

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Without personally inspecting the failed wheel, or at least better close up pictures, there is no way to tell exactly what the failure mode was. Are the bolts all broke off inside the wheel? Are the threads pulled out of the wheel? Are some of the bolts simply missing, or laying around on the ground with no obvious issues? Is this even a production level wheel and not some custom one off style? There is also a chance they simply over-inflated the tire which can cause a failure regardless of the beadlock or not (I've personally seen somebody over-inflate a tire and it blow up). Speaking of that, I can see it having heavy E or F rated tires that are rated for a max 80 psi which is way higher than I believe most manufacturers rate the beadlocks. A quick search shows that Raceline states that they should only go up to 25 lbs. of pressure.

But back on topic, I don't think this should be considered an issue specifically with beadlocks but rather more of a one-off failure due to some special circumstance. I've been into off-roading heavily since the late 90's and have been around a lot of beadlocks, spent way too much time on off-road forums, and have 3 sets of beadlocks on various machines in my shop right now.......and have only seen a handful of stories of beadlock failures like this in 20+ years. I have seen and read way more stories about just normal wheels failing or falling off of vehicles going down the road from improper installation or abuse than I have about beadlocks. Anything can fail with improper install or abuse, period.

In regards to installation of beadlock bolts or even wheel lug nuts, I have always used impact wrenches to do this. Yes, I regularly use torque wrenchs or at least hand tightening afterwards but it's not that hard to use an impact and not over tighten the stuff. A rookie or first timer....sure, be careful.....but after tightening thousands of bolts with the same impacts I have a pretty good feel for them. Nothing magically about it but other than lot's of experiences and being able to "feel it". Not saying I get the torque exactly right or anything, but if wheel lugs require 100 ft-lbs. I can usually get them to where it takes less than 1/8 turn with the torque wrench for it to click. I use a 3/8" battery impact for beadlocks and go around the bolts 2-3 times with it and still have to use a torque wrench to finish tightening them.....done this probably a dozen times.
 

SoK66

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Something about this smells like week old sushi. All of the bolts would have had to fail to do this. More info needed.
 

Old Jeeper

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Without personally inspecting the failed wheel, or at least better close up pictures, there is no way to tell exactly what the failure mode was. Are the bolts all broke off inside the wheel? Are the threads pulled out of the wheel? Are some of the bolts simply missing, or laying around on the ground with no obvious issues? Is this even a production level wheel and not some custom one off style? There is also a chance they simply over-inflated the tire which can cause a failure regardless of the beadlock or not (I've personally seen somebody over-inflate a tire and it blow up). Speaking of that, I can see it having heavy E or F rated tires that are rated for a max 80 psi which is way higher than I believe most manufacturers rate the beadlocks. A quick search shows that Raceline states that they should only go up to 25 lbs. of pressure.

But back on topic, I don't think this should be considered an issue specifically with beadlocks but rather more of a one-off failure due to some special circumstance. I've been into off-roading heavily since the late 90's and have been around a lot of beadlocks, spent way too much time on off-road forums, and have 3 sets of beadlocks on various machines in my shop right now.......and have only seen a handful of stories of beadlock failures like this in 20+ years. I have seen and read way more stories about just normal wheels failing or falling off of vehicles going down the road from improper installation or abuse than I have about beadlocks. Anything can fail with improper install or abuse, period.

In regards to installation of beadlock bolts or even wheel lug nuts, I have always used impact wrenches to do this. Yes, I regularly use torque wrenchs or at least hand tightening afterwards but it's not that hard to use an impact and not over tighten the stuff. A rookie or first timer....sure, be careful.....but after tightening thousands of bolts with the same impacts I have a pretty good feel for them. Nothing magically about it but other than lot's of experiences and being able to "feel it". Not saying I get the torque exactly right or anything, but if wheel lugs require 100 ft-lbs. I can usually get them to where it takes less than 1/8 turn with the torque wrench for it to click. I use a 3/8" battery impact for beadlocks and go around the bolts 2-3 times with it and still have to use a torque wrench to finish tightening them.....done this probably a dozen times.
My experience in observation has been User Error has been the basis for failure 100% of the time.

Interesting you last comment about torquing down with impact.
Day before yesterday I needed to torque down 3 bolts to 50 lbs. I chuck a 16 mm socket on torque wrench and hit it. Then I came back to confirm with my torque wrench. I only needed about 1/8th to Ā¼ of a turn to get my click.

In one on my jobs I had to torque down a bolt to 35-37 in lbs and it was done by hand on a fixed torque wrench. Well after doing this a LOT my hand knew exactly where the 35-37 in lbs was. My was inspected and never was the product brought back for over/under torquing, dead on the money. What was I torquing...US Army M 67




Jeep Wrangler JL Beadlock fail at SEMA causes broken leg M67b
 

stumblinhorse

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Because they aren't. Last time I checked (a LONG time ago), DOT does not have any regulation specific to beadlocks, it's therefore impossible to have DOT approval.
My question was mostly rhetorical. Why do most think beadlocks are not DOT approved. Maybe because stuff like this can happen when people are careless. I wasnā€™t asking why the DOT does not approved beadlocks.

Most people donā€™t know that when airing up tires at a tire shop, the entire rim/tire is put into a cage to protect tire shop workers while airing up. Tires are dangerous, stiffer or bigger more dangerous. Most people drop of their vehicle and pick it up with new tires on it and donā€™t realize that their 35s are dangerous for the techā€¦ without beadlocksā€¦
 

Flor1

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From the pictures Iā€™ve seen of the sema builds theirs not one Iā€™d like to drive around the block.
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