AUX battery delete/bypass - Which method is proper?

[bobholthaus]

Thanks,

Ill try this again but found another thread with the symptoms of dash and infotainment constantly waking up and cycling. Low and behold disconnecting the door C6 connections stopped it!

I have not heard of that issue in regards to deleting the Aux battery.

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[zouch]

if you read and understand that thread, that guys issue was found to have nothing to do with the battery bypass mod.

Thanks,

Ill try this again but found another thread with the symptoms of dash and infotainment constantly waking up and cycling. Low and behold disconnecting the door C6 connections stopped it!

 

[Warlocke]

I'll be deleting my auxiliary battery soon.

I plan on going through the fender liner to completely remove it.

I've read that I'll need three replacement rivets using this method.

Does anyone have the part number for the rivets?

Also, will I need a rivet gun for installation, or are they the push-in style?

I'm also planning on upgrading to an H7 AGM battery.

During the winter months, I only drive it occasionally, maybe once every, or every other, weekend.

Is an AGM battery fine for this scenario, or should I be looking at a traditional lead-acid battery?

I also don't want to deal with any chargers or tenders.

 

[Cartman]

Proper is to have two bateries.

 

[tobyw]

I'll be deleting my auxiliary battery soon.

I plan on going through the fender liner to completely remove it.

I've read that I'll need three replacement rivets using this method.

Does anyone have the part number for the rivets?

Also, will I need a rivet gun for installation, or are they the push-in style?

Deleted mine a couple of months ago by going up through the fender liner, definitely easier than coming from the top via the fuse box!

These were the only two "rivets" that I removed. On my '24 these were both simple "christmas tree" style push pins:

Once these were out I was able to pull the fender liner away from the body and prop it up with a 2x4 to gain access to the aux battery box:

EZPZ

 

[Warlocke]

These were the only two "rivets" that I removed. On my '24 these were both simple "christmas tree" style push pins:

Once these were out I was able to pull the fender liner away from the body and prop it up with a 2x4 to gain access to the aux battery box:

Did you just reuse the old rivets, or did you install new ones?

 

[tobyw]

Did you just reuse the old rivets, or did you install new ones?

Reused them.

 

[rickinAZ]

I'll be deleting my auxiliary battery soon.

I plan on going through the fender liner to completely remove it.

I've read that I'll need three replacement rivets using this method.

Does anyone have the part number for the rivets?

Also, will I need a rivet gun for installation, or are they the push-in style?

I'm also planning on upgrading to an H7 AGM battery.

During the winter months, I only drive it occasionally, maybe once every, or every other, weekend.

Is an AGM battery fine for this scenario, or should I be looking at a traditional lead-acid battery?

I also don't want to deal with any chargers or tenders.

Regarding removing the aux battery: why bother? I bypassed my aux in my EcoDiesel early in its life without removing it and life went on just fine. And...the Eco has easy aux access via a trapdoor, but I never saw the need to mess with it. Is this just a housekeeping issue or am I missing something? I guess that it puts your Jeep on a 10lb diet...

 

[Warlocke]

Regarding removing the aux battery: why bother? I bypassed my aux in my EcoDiesel early in its life without removing it and life went on just fine. And...the Eco has easy aux access via a trapdoor, but I never saw the need to mess with it. Is this just a housekeeping issue or am I missing something? I guess that it puts your Jeep on a 10lb diet...

Strictly housekeeping.

I'd like to eliminate any risk of terminal corrosion or leaking acid.

Nobody has an opinion on the AGM style battery with limited winter use?

 

[Yardstick]

I think I have a weak Aux battery so I've been thinking of bypassing it to extend the life of my main battery for now. Looking at all of the threads and information got me thinking. Couldn't we just connect the two positive cables on the PCR to achieve the same thing as the other bypass methods? The idea would be to stack the two positive cables together on one post of the PCR and then remove the Aux battery and insulate those terminals. You could pull the negative cable between the Aux and main with this method too.

I have also been curious - Has anyone compared the starting/charging system of a 392 Wrangler to a 2.0/3.6/3.0D version with ESS using the small aux battery? I'm curious if I could completely remove the PCR system on my EcoDiesel to make it work the same way the 392 does.

 

[THAW]

Couldn't we just connect the two positive cables on the PCR to achieve the same thing as the other bypass methods? The idea would be to stack the two positive cables together on one post of the PCR and then remove the Aux battery and insulate those terminals.

Yes. But, there's no meaningful advantage compared to removing fuse F42 - which is easier to do, and stops the relay from unnecessarily opening.

 

[Opus]

ESS stopped working on my '23 a while back. A few days ago I put it on the NOCO 1 overnight and the ESS is working again. Since we've got a road trip coming up I think the Aux battery bypass is a good precautionary measure to make sure we don't end up stranded with a dead main battery.

So, for a '23 is it still the cable on the right that has the L-shaped connector? I've seen enough pics and videos now that I'm starting to second-guess myself:

 

[THAW]

ESS stopped working on my '23 a while back. A few days ago I put it on the NOCO 1 overnight and the ESS is working again. Since we've got a road trip coming up I think the Aux battery bypass is a good precautionary measure to make sure we don't end up stranded with a dead main battery.

So, for a '23 is it still the cable on the right that has the L-shaped connector? I've seen enough pics and videos now that I'm starting to confuse myself:

Regardless of the terminal connector, it's always the smaller diameter cable. But yes, it's the L-shaped connector in a '23.

Keep an eye on that main battery. The forum likes to focus on the AUX (ESS) battery, but if ESS was disabled by the vehicle without any specific message on the Stop/Start EVIC display the reality is main battery SoC as measured by the IBS was not above 64%. If the battery has been at low SoC for a long period, it's likely not entirely healthy, even after a good charge.

Edit: if the incorrect cable is disconnected the Jeep will have no power at all, which is the sign to reattach it and disconnect the other cable.

 

[Opus]

Regardless of the terminal connector, it's always the smaller diameter cable. But yes, it's the L-shaped connector in a '23.

Keep an eye on that main battery. The forum likes to focus on the AUX (ESS) battery, but if ESS was disabled by the vehicle without any specific message on the Stop/Start EVIC display the reality is main battery SoC as measured by the IBS was not above 64%. If the battery has been at low SoC for a long period, it's likely not entirely healthy, even after a good charge.

Good to know. I will keep an eye on it after I do the bypass. I saw the message on the EVIC display when I went looking for it, but I never got a warning light or message on start-up or while it was running. The Avengers signal never lit up.

 

[THAW]

Good to know. I will keep an eye on it after I do the bypass. I saw the message on the EVIC display when I went looking for it, but I never got a warning light or message on start-up or while it was running. The Avengers signal never lit up.

The "Avengers!" light shows up - among other reasons - if the AUX (ESS) battery can't keep Jeep electronics powered on by itself during a very brief (milliseconds) test during startup.

The Start/Stop EVIC will show "not ready" without other qualifiers if IBS SOC (main battery) is below 65%. It'll list more specifics when other conditions exist.

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