6sp MT - difficult shifting after clutch install

[Willing&Able]

Hi all - just picked up my jeep after getting the Centerforce clutch installed. The clutch itself is fantastic - great pedal feel, bite, and engagement.

I have a new issue w shifter engagement. First gear was near impossible to shift into from neutral/stop. I had to learn a technique - from neutral, push all the way left until it stops and apply pressure, riding the left side of the shifter pattern until it engages into first. This works 80% of the time. When it doesn't work, I go back to neutral, repeat and usually can get it in the second time. Without this leftward pressure it won't go in.

In third, it works most of the time but occasionally hangs up on what can only be described as a thin piece of plastic - it makes an audible noise/click, slight resistance, then it goes in.

2, 4, 5, 6, & R all seem ok.

Talked to shop and they mentioned there is a linkage to the trans, but it isn't adjustable. They are reputable and I trust them, but also appreciate there aren't a lot of JL 6MT's out there and very few with clutch upgrades (although I don't think this is causing the problem).

Any guidance from the interwebs? Shop is a 90 minute drive, so if there are a few easy tricks to try I'll give it a shot.

Thanks,
Mark

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[AnnDee4444]

Hi all - just picked up my jeep after getting the Centerforce clutch installed. The clutch itself is fantastic - great pedal feel, bite, and engagement.

I have a new issue w shifter engagement. First gear was near impossible to shift into from neutral/stop. I had to learn a technique - from neutral, push all the way left until it stops and apply pressure, riding the left side of the shifter pattern until it engages into first. This works 80% of the time. When it doesn't work, I go back to neutral, repeat and usually can get it in the second time. Without this leftward pressure it won't go in.

In third, it works most of the time but occasionally hangs up on what can only be described as a thin piece of plastic - it makes an audible noise/click, slight resistance, then it goes in.

2, 4, 5, 6, & R all seem ok.

Talked to shop and they mentioned there is a linkage to the trans, but it isn't adjustable. They are reputable and I trust them, but also appreciate there aren't a lot of JL 6MT's out there and very few with clutch upgrades (although I don't think this is causing the problem).

Any guidance from the interwebs? Shop is a 90 minute drive, so if there are a few easy tricks to try I'll give it a shot.

Thanks,
Mark

I don't have a manual JL, but a few things come to mind:

• The cable linkages on the outside might be out of alignment (The JL is cable shifted... correct?) This sounds most likely, as 1 & 3 are on the same side, and 5th either doesn't require as much throw (or your'e unknowingly rev-matching when shifting)
• Bent internal shift forks (unlikely, as it's more than one gear)
• worn out synchros (also unlikely)
• if you can't push the clutch in far enough, it will be hard to shift like this. This could be due to the throw-out bearing (or clutch) being the incorrect depth, improperly bled clutch master/slave cylinder, clutch pedal incorrectly adjusted, etc.

 

[MadDog27]

The JLs are hydraulic not cable. I was going to suggest maybe have the slave cylinder bled again? Possible you have a bit of air in the lines and it’s not allowing the clutch to fully engage.

Just a thought though.

 

[AnnDee4444]

The JLs are hydraulic not cable. I was going to suggest maybe have the slave cylinder bled again? Possible you have a bit of air in the lines and it’s not allowing the clutch to fully engage.

Just a thought though.

I was referring to the linkage between the shifter and the transmission itself. I've never seen a manual transmission with hydraulic shifter linkage, and assumed that the JL uses cables (as opposed to rods, or directly mounted to the transmission).

 

[MadDog27]

I was referring to the linkage between the shifter and the transmission itself. I've never seen a manual transmission with hydraulic shifter linkage, and assumed that the JL uses cables (as opposed to rods, or directly mounted to the transmission).

Aaahh, misunderstood. I’ve never seen that either.

 

[Willing&Able]

Thanks guys. I don't think it is the clutch. It is cabled - I thought too it was out of alignment/needed adjusting, but understand that they are fixed/not adjustable?

Any other feedback would be great. I want my butter shifting back to go w my sweet clutch!!!

 

[Jebiruph]

Thanks guys. I don't think it is the clutch. It is cabled - I thought too it was out of alignment/needed adjusting, but understand that they are fixed/not adjustable?

Any other feedback would be great. I want my butter shifting back to go w my sweet clutch!!!

Have the shop that did the work drive it and figure out what's wrong.

 

[sf5211]

Yea Mark, unfortunately you’re going to have to resolve this even if it means having the transmission pulled down again. The forks in your trans are not a hardened steel. They won’t be able to withstand that kind of pressure on them permanently. As a matter of fact I believe the owners manual encourages you to not even rest your hand on the shifter when driving because it causes wear.

 

[Toycrusher]

I had a lot of trouble bleeding the clutch when swapping to the Centerforce. I ended up having to put my Mityvac on the brake reservoir and pull about 10" vacuum, remove the slave cylinder, gently pump the clutch, and finally was able to get it fully bled and functioning.

Or, they might have not got the shift cable brackets installed right, perhaps it's cocked because something caught underneath and the cable isn't getting the full throw

 

[Rodeoflyer]

I'm following this thread.. there's some issue with the stock clutch assembly and it is cable actuated. the brackets not being installed correctly or not in synch makes sense.

 

[Willing&Able]

Thanks guys. Is this something a dealership service center can address (local dealerships are mediocre) or is it a more in depth, technical issue? The shop that installed the clutch is a three hour round trip drive, so if it is fairly basic I don't mind the dealership correcting.

I have to bring back to shop in a few weeks regardless, but don't want to further damage.

I do believe it is the cabling that is off. As another example, reverse engages about half of the distance forward of what it did. Because of this, it doesn't always trigger the backup camera, but it is in gear an reverses.

 

[Chris Dobbins]

They must have moved the bracket that holds the shift cables. Should of left it attached to the transmission. The shop manual gives a lot of warnings about removing it. It will have to be adjusted.

 

[DanW]

Thanks guys. Is this something a dealership service center can address (local dealerships are mediocre) or is it a more in depth, technical issue? The shop that installed the clutch is a three hour round trip drive, so if it is fairly basic I don't mind the dealership correcting.

I have to bring back to shop in a few weeks regardless, but don't want to further damage.

I do believe it is the cabling that is off. As another example, reverse engages about half of the distance forward of what it did. Because of this, it doesn't always trigger the backup camera, but it is in gear an reverses.

The dealership, if they have a competent tech, should be able to correct it, but don't expect them to pay for it or cover it under warranty. That went out the door when an independent shop put the wrenches to it. Clearly they didn't put it back together correctly. It worked as intended before they touched it, now it doesn't. I'd make that shop get it right. It is not rocket science. Cable linked shifters have been around for a LOOONNNNGGGG time. There's nothing high tech about it. They need to do their homework and figure it out. I'm pretty sure FCA has tech support that independent shops can call in a jam. They probably charge the shop a fee, but that's the price of being an independent shop.

If their good rep is real, they'll make it right. If they throw their hands up, then they got in over their heads and won't admit it.

 

[Toycrusher]

The dealership, if they have a competent tech, should be able to correct it, but don't expect them to pay for it or cover it under warranty. That went out the door when an independent shop put the wrenches to it. Clearly they didn't put it back together correctly. It worked as intended before they touched it, now it doesn't. I'd make that shop get it right. It is not rocket science. Cable linked shifters have been around for a LOOONNNNGGGG time. There's nothing high tech about it. They need to do their homework and figure it out. I'm pretty sure FCA has tech support that independent shops can call in a jam. They probably charge the shop a fee, but that's the price of being an independent shop.

If their good rep is real, they'll make it right. If they throw their hands up, then they got in over their heads and won't admit it.

I had a really hard time getting the cables out of the retainer bracket but once i had it apart it was easy to get back together. You could attempt to correct it yourself

 

[TahoeTaylor]

I had a really hard time getting the cables out of the retainer bracket but once i had it apart it was easy to get back together. You could attempt to correct it yourself

@Willing&Able - did you ever confirm what the issue was and get it resolved? I just had the Centerforce II put in my 2020 JLU and when I went to pick it up from the shop it has similar issues. It’s like the shifter is misaligned. Where 1st is there’s now 3rd, where second is there’s now 4th, where 3rd should be there’s 5th, etc. Basically the entire shifter has shifted left. And so 1st is nom existent. The only way to get it into 1st now is to pull up like you’re going into R but then you have to really nurse it to find 1st between R and 3rd. It’s like a hairline difference and you miss it.

I’m super bummed. Been without a my Jeep for 2 months waiting for the CF clutch to come in and now this.

Any tips on what I can tell the shop would be super helpful.

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