5W 30 versus 0W 20

[grimmjeeper]

I spent several years on the site (2010-2020 or so), and some members are respectable and quite knowledgeable; however, there is far too much "groupthink" on the site. Case in point, HPL has been on the market since 2012 or so, but has been a "darling" only for the last few years on BITOG with everyone gushing about how great it is despite having no approvals or certifications. It may be great oil, but without 3rd party verification and at the price point it has, color me unimpressed. TBT, it comes off as a "hobby" oil versus something that would be used mainstream--it reminds me of the way that Royal Purple started.

The same thing happened around 2012 on BITOG with Purolator oil filters — so much ado about how great they were, only to find out that as people began cutting them open, they discovered that even at low mileage, they were tearing, sometimes in multiple places--yet, the initial consensus was those tears meant little as the oil was still being filtered--except, of course, the oil that was bypassing through the tear.

In the end, and you will see this on BITOG, THIS should be the grain of salt that is taken away--for the most part, oils that carry the same approvals and certifications will perform the same on any given day and to truly see any differences will require very intricate and multi-million dollar testing equipment OR a complete tear-down of the engine to measure wear.

Almost none of us have access to that level of equipment, nor do we want to perform an engine tear-down solely for the sake of quantifying oil performance. Select a suitable synthetic that will maintain its grade during the run, monitor dilution (if applicable) and additive life, establish a baseline, and drive.

In my opinion, it is far better to choose an off-the-shelf, commercially available oil and change it at a decent interval, rather than finding some magic "whiz bang" uber expensive oil and running it for extended intervals.

It amazes me how many people don't understand that the plural of anecdote is not "data".

I'll take the less expensive oil that passed cert and, most importantly, change it on a regular basis.

No sense taking a risk on something a company won't submit for certification testing.

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[CarbonSteel]

It amazes me how many people don't understand that the plural of anecdote is not "data".

I'll take the less expensive oil that passed cert and, most importantly, change it on a regular basis.

No sense taking a risk on something a company won't submit for certification testing.

 

[Nokones]

Hey does it make the fan come on when you're doing 75 mph and your oil temperature gets to 215? Sometimes my stupid oil temperature gets very high even when I'm at freeway speeds 🫣

I use the Pennzoil 0W-20 Platinum that the dealer uses, in my 23 Wrangler Rubi 3.6 and I have 11K miles. So far no thicking.

I'm not sure if my Dealer uses the Ultra Platinum, but the next service I will ask my Dealer to use the Ultra Platinum since it is rated the best today for wear protection.

Just for giggles, I took my Jeep out today to watch the coolant and oil temps since I haven't driven it in almost a month. In about 12 miles of moderate surface driving not exceeding 50 MPH in 107 degree temp., my coolant temp did not exceed 197 degrees and my oil temp did not exceed 204 degrees. Then I drove for approx. 20 miles sustained at 70-75 MPH on the freeway with air temp hovering around 109-111 degrees, the coolant temp did not exceed 217 degrees and the oil temp not exceeding 231 degrees.

Even during cooler temps, I not seeing the coolant and oil temps varying that much. Normal oil temps for gasoline engines should read between 230-260 degrees.

In reading the various posts regarding people using the thicker 5W-30 oil in your 3.6L to prevent the dreaded Cam/Rocker failure, the problem is not related to the oil viscosity being used, the failure is related to the rocker bushing material being used. A thicker oil viscosity of 5W-30 is not going to make a difference.

The thicker viscosity may actually cause more wear than protecting the engine from additional wear.

There is a reason why the factory recommends the 0W-20 oil in the 3.6L engine because the engine was designed/engineered to run with that viscosity in order for the to meet the various EPA standards and regulations. If the factory thought that the 5W-30 oil was the best for optimum lubrication and to meet the emissions regulations, than the engine would have been designed/engineered accordingly.

Not all 0W-20 oils is approved for use in the later 3.6L engines. Only the 0W-20 oils meeting the API rating with the Starburst symbol should be used in the 3.6L engine.

I have read that some people have stated that using the 5W-30 oil quiets the engine and that is nothing more than putting a bandaid on a problem. It will not resolve the thicking problem.

If you feel you are smarter than the factory engine designers/engineers, and use the cheaper and/or thicker viscosity oils, and cheaper gasolines that may not be compatible with the oils, please feel free to do whatever you want, it is your engine that will wear at a faster rate than others.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I use the Pennzoil 0W-20 Platinum that the dealer uses, in my 23 Wrangler Rubi 3.6 and I have 11K miles. So far no thicking.

I'm not sure if my Dealer uses the Ultra Platinum, but the next service I will ask my Dealer to use the Ultra Platinum since it is rated the best today for wear protection.

Just for giggles, I took my Jeep out today to watch the coolant and oil temps since I haven't driven it in almost a month. In about 12 miles of moderate surface driving not exceeding 50 MPH in 107 degree temp., my coolant temp did not exceed 197 degrees and my oil temp did not exceed 204 degrees. Then I drove for approx. 20 miles sustained at 70-75 MPH on the freeway with air temp hovering around 109-111 degrees, the coolant temp did not exceed 217 degrees and the oil temp not exceeding 231 degrees.

Even during cooler temps, I not seeing the coolant and oil temps varying that much. Normal oil temps for gasoline engines should read between 230-260 degrees.

In reading the various posts regarding people using the thicker 5W-30 oil in your 3.6L to prevent the dreaded Cam/Rocker failure, the problem is not related to the oil viscosity being used, the failure is related to the rocker bushing material being used. A thicker oil viscosity of 5W-30 is not going to make a difference.

The thicker viscosity may actually cause more wear than protecting the engine from additional wear.

There is a reason why the factory recommends the 0W-20 oil in the 3.6L engine because the engine was designed/engineered to run with that viscosity in order for the to meet the various EPA standards and regulations. If the factory thought that the 5W-30 oil was the best for optimum lubrication and to meet the emissions regulations, than the engine would have been designed/engineered accordingly.

Not all 0W-20 oils is approved for use in the later 3.6L engines. Only the 0W-20 oils meeting the API rating with the Starburst symbol should be used in the 3.6L engine.

I have read that some people have stated that using the 5W-30 oil quiets the engine and that is nothing more than putting a bandaid on a problem. It will not resolve the thicking problem.

If you feel you are smarter than the factory engine designers/engineers, and use the cheaper and/or thicker viscosity oils, and cheaper gasolines that may not be compatible with the oils, please feel free to do whatever you want, it is your engine that will wear at a faster rate than others.

Why do you say that? How do you know that?

 

[Nokones]

Why do you say that? How do you know that?

It is called E & E.

 

[JEEP4U]

 

[Dusty Dude]

I use the Pennzoil 0W-20 Platinum that the dealer uses, in my 23 Wrangler Rubi 3.6 and I have 11K miles. So far no thicking.

I'm not sure if my Dealer uses the Ultra Platinum, but the next service I will ask my Dealer to use the Ultra Platinum since it is rated the best today for wear protection.

Just for giggles, I took my Jeep out today to watch the coolant and oil temps since I haven't driven it in almost a month. In about 12 miles of moderate surface driving not exceeding 50 MPH in 107 degree temp., my coolant temp did not exceed 197 degrees and my oil temp did not exceed 204 degrees. Then I drove for approx. 20 miles sustained at 70-75 MPH on the freeway with air temp hovering around 109-111 degrees, the coolant temp did not exceed 217 degrees and the oil temp not exceeding 231 degrees.

Even during cooler temps, I not seeing the coolant and oil temps varying that much. Normal oil temps for gasoline engines should read between 230-260 degrees.

In reading the various posts regarding people using the thicker 5W-30 oil in your 3.6L to prevent the dreaded Cam/Rocker failure, the problem is not related to the oil viscosity being used, the failure is related to the rocker bushing material being used. A thicker oil viscosity of 5W-30 is not going to make a difference.

The thicker viscosity may actually cause more wear than protecting the engine from additional wear.

There is a reason why the factory recommends the 0W-20 oil in the 3.6L engine because the engine was designed/engineered to run with that viscosity in order for the to meet the various EPA standards and regulations. If the factory thought that the 5W-30 oil was the best for optimum lubrication and to meet the emissions regulations, than the engine would have been designed/engineered accordingly.

Not all 0W-20 oils is approved for use in the later 3.6L engines. Only the 0W-20 oils meeting the API rating with the Starburst symbol should be used in the 3.6L engine.

I have read that some people have stated that using the 5W-30 oil quiets the engine and that is nothing more than putting a bandaid on a problem. It will not resolve the thicking problem.

If you feel you are smarter than the factory engine designers/engineers, and use the cheaper and/or thicker viscosity oils, and cheaper gasolines that may not be compatible with the oils, please feel free to do whatever you want, it is your engine that will wear at a faster rate than others.

You are describing the fine line between longevity and planned obsolescence. The speculation is the 0W-20 oil was introduced for meeting EPA regs at the possible expense of longevity. As long as it makes it past the warranty period, that’s all that matters to Stellantis.

An example is a planetary gear set that GM designed as an “upgrade” to one of their transmissions. They tried using a cheaper (inferior)metallurgy to save a few pennies per unit. The result was that it shelled itself out in a very short period of time. They then went from four to five gears to spread out the load bearing capacity amongst the gears. Adding the 5th gear made it last past the warranty period, and it was still cheaper to produce. It also doesn’t last as long as the original four gear set.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Hpl is giving 4th of July sale, 20% off, and $25 flat shipping even if you order 500 quarts.

 

[R3TRO]

If you post this on BITOG, the staff will ban you. Looks like BITOG is run by HPL and Amsoil, you cannot criticize them there. What a crazy Forum. Here we are pretty chill

Never heard of BITOG and took a look... never knew there was such passion for motor oil?! I'm guessing no women on that site! Lol

 

[Wabujitsu]

Never heard of BITOG and took a look... never knew there was such passion for motor oil?! I'm guessing no women on that site! Lol

Steve, I wonder, do the 2.0T folks here go round and round about oil? Or just the 3.6 folks?

 

[Terrymo]

Why do you say that? How do you know that?

 

[tk1700]

Steve, I wonder, do the 2.0T folks here go round and round about oil? Or just the 3.6 folks?

I haven't the 2.0 people get as passionate as the 3.6 people regarding viscosity. The consensus seems to be make sure it's SP rated and OCI of 5k miles or less.

 

[Pape]

The 2.0 is already running w30 so no point in revisiting this topic extensively

 

[Pismo61]

Steve, I wonder, do the 2.0T folks here go round and round about oil? Or just the 3.6 folks?

Nope.

 

[Wabujitsu]

The 2.0 is already running w30 so no point in revisiting this topic extensively

Sure there is! 30 is prescribed, but wouldn’t 40 be better? Etc etc etc

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