5W 30 versus 0W 20

[Jeep Junkie]

A VOA with 3 PPM iron and 7 PPM aluminum? Silicon , sodium, and potassium in the sample too?

How much was 1 QT of HPL delivered and what HPL oil was this?

This one?

https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/passenger-car-lubricants/products/no-vii-engine-oils

Yeah it is crazy, that's why I am nervous using it.
It is the Super Car 0W-20, $95 for 6 quarts.

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[CarbonSteel]

Yeah it is crazy, that's why I am nervous using it.
It is the Super Car 0W-20, $95 for 6 quarts.

Plus shipping?

I know they rant and rave over it on BITOG, but zero approvals/certifications places it in the same category as Amsoil, though it is probably decent oil despite having none.

I entertained using it in my Bronco, but it makes no fiscal sense given that 5QTs of M1 ESP 0W-30 is less than $30 and does everything I need it to despite the fuel dilution the 2.7L has.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Plus shipping?

I know they rant and rave over it on BITOG, but zero approvals/certifications places it in the same category as Amsoil, though it is probably decent oil despite having none.

I entertained using it in my Bronco, but it makes no fiscal sense given that 5QTs of M1 ESP 0W-30 is less than $30 and does everything I need it to despite the fuel dilution the 2.7L has.

No, additional $30 for shipping

 

[roaniecowpony]

Yeah it is crazy, that's why I am nervous using it.
It is the Super Car 0W-20, $95 for 6 quarts.

The juice isn't worth the squeeze. Use good oil you can afford to change at short intervals

 

[jav_eee]

So what does that mean, 0w20 is good for us or bad for us?

it means someone made up some random BS and someone else believed them.

 

[jav_eee]

I would be running M1 ESP 0W-30 in Phoenix...

That’s what I’m running here in Deep South Texas.

 

[CarbonSteel]

No, additional $30 for shipping

Wait, so $123 total or $20.50 per QT? Seriously??

There is NO way I'm paying that for an oil that has ZERO approvals or specifications.

Given your propensity to fall into paralysis by analysis, I am floored that you are...

Good luck!

 

[dabolay]

I know theres been a lot of discussion on here in the past about preferred oil for the 3.6 Pentastar since Jeep changed it to a 0W 20. Has anyone had a successful strategy ie 1) Run 0W 20 until 60k then switch to 5W 30?
2) Run 5W 30 from the get go and bet on the come as to warranty? (Less likely to need it)
3) Stay with 0W 20 because 5w 30 wont make that big of a positive difference?
4) when you hear the Pentastar has potential to make it 300k and above,no chance with 0W 20 right? Must go to 5W 30 at some point?
5) as i understand it, Jeep only changed it for EPA emissions tests and a little bit of mileage ( about as much as the start stop)
Would appreciate your experience and how many miles you made it to without a major issue (successful strategy) thanks

When I was in middle school and began doing a summer job for my dad's company, one of the first jobs I was assigned was to keep the fleet of vehicles maintained (oil changes, oil & air filter changes, and lubrication). He had quite a fleet of cars, vans, pickups, and larger trucks. Now that was conventional oil days and I was instructed to change oil and filters at 2,500 miles. Now some people will say that oil change intervals like that made sense because the oil was conentional. However, when I first began using synthetic oils, my 2,500 mile oil change intervals became 3,000 mile oil changes. That doesn't mean that I change my oil exactly at 3,000 miles. What it means is that I target 3,000 miles. This past weekend I changed the oil in my 2024 JL (3.6 L Pentastar) at 3,629 miles. I also have a Ford pickup with just shy of 310,000 miles and I have followed that method since new.

Regarding my Jeep, I asked one of the senior service techs at the dealership if he had any oil advice and he said that in addition to using 0W-20, familiarize yourself with BG EPR and BG MOA products.

So, I began using BG EPR (follow instructions) just before draining the oil, then drain the oil, change the engine oil filter, and after filling up with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20, add a can of BG MOA. Change the engine air filter and cabin air filter as well. If you decide to continue with Pennzoil, check out Pennzoil's oil change registry and warranty information. BG also offers a registry and warranty as well.

Happy trails.

 

[azjl#3]

BG EPR, looks interesting, particularly the disclaimer, "we have no responsibility if it goes south"

I asked them for product contents which they wont send, but they have to send the MSDS I asked for.

So for the oil experts, if I have an engine oil running at 210, the oil should be a viscosity 20 if 20 weight, 30 if 30 weight, 40, etc. Or does the 30/40 weight act more 20 ish at 210, then go higher with higher temps?

So lets say during the hill climb, oil hits 235. What is the 20 weight viscosity, 30-40 weight?

I just clicked over 8,500 miles, second oil change using 0w20 OEM oil. Silent to date. Maybe this one is my keeper. I do add lucas viscosity modifier, another snake oil, but has been demonstrated by me to make startups silent. And no, lucas won't give their ingredients either, or specifics on how much modifying does it do.


Lastly, do not fear 245 in the coolant, it's good to about 265.
Do not fear 235 engine oil, BMW runs 230 when warm, and up to 300 where it says slow down.

That said, when you hit these hi points, its time to slow down.

 

[sherpaJL]

You're not going to see a difference between 0w-20 and 5w-30. Run what helps you sleep at night.

I run 2-1/2 quarts of 0W-20 mixed with 2-1/2 quarts of 5W-30.
I've never slept so good.

 

[CarbonSteel]

So for the oil experts, if I have an engine oil running at 210, the oil should be a viscosity 20 if 20 weight, 30 if 30 weight, 40, etc. Or does the 30/40 weight act more 20 ish at 210, then go higher with higher temps?

So lets say during the hill climb, oil hits 235. What is the 20 weight viscosity, 30-40 weight?

You can get a good idea by looking at the PDS for the oil(s) in question and pay attention to the cSt value at 100°C (212°F) and compare that value to the cSt viscosity ranges shown here.

Oil typically gets thinner with increased temperatures, not thicker, so xW-20 would not be an xW-30 or 40 at higher temperatures.

 

[Raydar]

Without having read through the entire thread, I'm choosing to run 5W30 full synthetic in my Jeeps.
The '21, with 26K on the odo, is significantly quieter than it was.
And FCA doesn't care about longevity. As long as it lasts through the warranty period, they could not care less. Such is life, these days.
(Our manual also specifies 5W30 as an alternative to 0W20, so I'm not worried about warranty coverage.)

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Wait, so $123 total or $20.50 per QT? Seriously??

There is NO way I'm paying that for an oil that has ZERO approvals or specifications.

Given your propensity to fall into paralysis by analysis, I am floored that you are...

Good luck!

The 15% BITOG discount paid for the shipping. So this oil can't be trusted? It is in the category of Amsoil and RedLine with no approvals. It just says it is suitable for a bunch of Euro approvals like Mercedez, Porsche etc.
Its price is similar to RedLine.

 

[CarbonSteel]

The 15% BITOG discount paid for the shipping. So this oil can't be trusted? It is in the category of Amsoil and RedLine with no approvals. It just says it is suitable for a bunch of Euro approvals like Mercedez, Porsche etc.
Its price is similar to RedLine.

Suitable, Recommended for, Works with, Use in place of... are all just "weasel words" that mean NOTHING.

If an oil does not state an approval using the format of the OEM it is approved for OR does not have the API seal with SN, SN+, SP, etc., then it is not an oil that has approvals.

This means use at your own risk. I am not saying the oil is "bad", but why on earth would anyone pay that price for an unapproved oil, when they are COUNTLESS oils on the shelf that DO have approvals and will have your engine running just as long.

There is a $hit ton of marketing out there...

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Suitable, Recommended for, Works with, Use in place of... are all just "weasel words" that mean NOTHING.

If an oil does not state an approval using the format of the OEM it is approved for OR does not have the API seal with SN, SN+, SP, etc., then it is not approved.

This means use at your own risk. I am not saying the oil is "bad", but why on earth would anyone pay that price for an unapproved oil, when they are COUNTLESS oils on the shelf that DO have approvals and will have your engine running just as long.

There is a $hit ton of marketing out there...

I said something similar to what you just said on BITOG and I got banned for the second time, the ban reason was for spreading false information. That forum is crazy

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