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4WD or Not?

BobW

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4L, 1st or 2nd gear (MT!). Last summer, coasted down Silver Canyon east of Bishop CA. Dirt power line road 6000ft in 10mi, almost entirely riding on engine braking.
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Joseph,

Sure, there is some noticeable drop in takeoff power when compared directly to stock. However, I bought a Jeep not a Ferrari. My take off acceleration on 35s still give me more than enough power to attain anything I may want or need to do with my Wrangler. Racing a Porsche is something I'd likely never consider.

For a true driving purist, the 3.45 differential gears is certainly not optimum but the 8-speed transmission handles the 35's almost as if it were designed for them. I had fully believed a regearing was in the cards and almost a forgone necessity. Yet, after giving it some time to experience this setup I've decided that leaving it alone has been perfectly fine (for me). But I'm no lead foot. I'm pretty happy with the 22-23mpg I can routinely achieve driving around the greater metro Denver area, which includes some of it's surrounding foothills. Even with the 3.6L v6. So leaving the stock gearing has had it advantages.

Also, many people love running on under inflated tires for the 'ride' feel. On trail this is of course desirable. I typically air down to 15psi any time when off-road (even casually). But on road, these 35x12.5x17 Duratracs get pumped up to 40psi. That's the pressure just slightly over the best chalk test of 38psi.

Sure this ride is not as 'mushy' but certainly helps with the better mileage and overall tread wear. Did I mention this is a Jeep and not some boring Prius?

I love my JL Sport. Off road it keeps me on my A game (without lockers), but it is also so much more accommodating on-road due to the taller gears.

But that's just me. I'm certain that there are hundreds of Jeepers that will tell me I'm all wet behind the ears for loving this setup. That's fine. That's the beauty of these things. Mod it the way it makes you happy. Mine puts a smile on my face every time I'm near it but especially when I'm out wheeling in it.

Go have fun. These things rock.
Jay
I appreciate your thorough replies. The 2.0 has essentially the same power as your V6, and with 4.10’s in mine I doubt I’ll be able to tell much difference in the power level. I don’t race Porsche’s (anymore) either, sold the Shelby-ized Mustang GT several years ago, and went from a crotch rocket to a GoldWing too.

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Continuing the education, on this type of rutted roads (not rock-crawling) what is everyone’s experience with sway bar disconnect? Any improvement in ride and handling or a waste of time?
J-Frame
Definitely disconnect the swaybar. Smooths out the bumps. I disconnect the swaybar as soon as I leave the pavement, even if I'm staying in 2WD ( I have a TrailDash3 which allows me to disconnect the swaybar and lock the rear diff while still in 2Hi). Even just on service trails my wife can feel the difference.
 

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Disconnecting your sway bar allows your axle to flex and keep wheels on the ground for traction when dealing with ruts and potholes. Just be sure to reconnect before going to highway speeds.
Definitely disconnect the swaybar. Smooths out the bumps. I disconnect the swaybar as soon as I leave the pavement, even if I'm staying in 2WD ( I have a TrailDash3 which allows me to disconnect the swaybar and lock the rear diff while still in 2Hi). Even just on service trails my wife can feel the difference.
when we pull off road and air down:

Me: Airing down for better traction
Wife: No, airing down for a better ride

On some trails we need to hit pavement for 100 feet so I shift into 2 Hi, go off payment, shift in 4 Low

Wife: It's bumpy, did you forget to disconnect the sway bar again?

I hope the JM wrangler in 2028:
  • Automatically disconnects the sway bar when you shift in 4 low. If they don't make it automatic, light up the CEL with a warning sway bar is connected.
  • Lets you set low pressure warning in low range. Non bead lock folks could set it to 9 PSI.
I can't think of any occasion you'd want the sway bar connected in low range. If there is such a case, repurpose the cancel ESS button to cancel automatic sway bar disconnect and completely eliminate the ESS.
 

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Its irrelevant. Either will work fine.

the reality is that going down a hill slowly, even if its steep, puts less heat into the brakes than one stop from 60 mph getting off an exit ramp.

If you want engine braking, 4wd or Rwd will work. Are the wheels sliding in RWD. If yes, then 4WD will help. Or just use the brakes.

I personally wouldn't bother putting it in 4L to try to get more engine braking. Seems like a pain in teh ass for no benefit.

I'd probably shift it manually into 1st and use the brakes to make up for any extra braking needed.

I also use engine braking. My exit off the highway is a long 1.5 mile pretty steep downhill. This would put a LOT of energy/heat into the brakes. So I start slowing early and use the engine to get my down from roughly 75 to 40. This avoids putting roughly 70% of the of the total kinetic energy the vehicle has into the brakes.
Dcmdon, I'm curious, if you have that long of an off-ramp, even if it does descend as you say, why can't you downshift enough to get your speed down to say 25 or even 20 mph before braking? Unless maybe it is a matter of you usually having impatient asswipes behind you, who want to roar up to the stop sign at 65 mph before braking like an idiot teenager --- which I see all too frequently nowadays.

But then again, I am the king of coasting to stops, as I am usually only driving in light to very light traffic.
 
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Dcmdon, I'm curious, if you have that long of an off-ramp, even if it does descend as you say, why can't you downshift enough to get your speed down to say 25 or even 20 mph before braking? Unless maybe it is a matter of you usually having impatient asswipes behind you, who want to roar up to the stop sign at 65 mph before braking like an idiot teenager --- which I see all too frequently nowadays.

But then again, I am the king of coasting to stops, as I am usually only driving in light to very light traffic.
I actually use as much engine braking as I can. I can get down to 45 mph then tap the brakes a bit to get me down to 35ish, which lets me drop another gear then back on the brakes gently.

I can do it smoothly enough that my family doesn't even notice.

One thing to remember is that kinetic energy is a square function. so if I can get to 35ish with minimal braking, I'm really avoiding hammering the brakes.

Even getting to 45 mph makes a big difference.
(70^2)=4900
(45^2)=2025

So at 70 mph there is 2.4 times as much kinetic energy for the brakes to turn into heat as there is a 45 mph. (4900/2025 = 2.4)

This all sounds like ridiculous overkill. I do this because I've warped rotors on every domestic or Japanese car I've ever owned. (Except for my STi) They all have smaller rotors than equivalent European cars.
 

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I actually use as much engine braking as I can. I can get down to 45 mph then tap the brakes a bit to get me down to 35ish, which lets me drop another gear then back on the brakes gently.

I can do it smoothly enough that my family doesn't even notice.

One thing to remember is that kinetic energy is a square function. so if I can get to 35ish with minimal braking, I'm really avoiding hammering the brakes.

Even getting to 45 mph makes a big difference.
(70^2)=4900
(45^2)=2025

So at 70 mph there is 2.4 times as much kinetic energy for the brakes to turn into heat as there is a 45 mph. (4900/2025 = 2.4)

This all sounds like ridiculous overkill. I do this because I've warped rotors on every domestic or Japanese car I've ever owned. (Except for my STi) They all have smaller rotors than equivalent European cars.
Dcmdon, from my many university physics courses, I am intimately aware of the square power function of kinetic energy, and it is never far from my mind while driving. In fact, I see it in practice all the time while driving in the winter on icy roads, with other drivers who brake FAR too hard and too quickly, because they probably subconsciously believe, incorrectly, that they should brake in direct linear proportion to their speed, which is WRONG.

If one is to brake properly, taking the actual kinetic energy of the vehicle into account, then one would reduce the vehicle's speed to half the speed at which they started braking not halfway to the intended stopping point, but 75% of the way to the intended stopping point. This is totally counterintuitive to virtually everyone, yet it is a fact.
 

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@Chugiakguy,

I really do enjoy hearing about anyone using the physics of kinetic (and even potential) energies while driving their vehicles. So many people never realize just how much force is in a moving mass. Let alone the braking actions vs coefficient of friction to counteract those forces.

If they did, tailgating would be the exception rather than the rule. Maybe we should come up with a phone app that points this out while they're being distracted with it while they're tailgating.

Maybe with using the units of force translated into the equivalent of sticks of dynamite upon potential impact. Maybe not only would they back off and allow for that extra quadratic distance but also put their phone down in the process.

Nah... Likely just wishful thinking. Still, might be some potential for at least a patent for a phone app. Just no chance at monetizing it since it would simply just be ignored.

Jay
 

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@Chugiakguy,

I really do enjoy hearing about anyone using the physics of kinetic (and even potential) energies while driving their vehicles. So many people never realize just how much force is in a moving mass. Let alone the braking actions vs coefficient of friction to counteract those forces.

If they did, tailgating would be the exception rather than the rule. Maybe we should come up with a phone app that points this out while they're being distracted with it while they're tailgating.

Maybe with using the units of force translated into the equivalent of sticks of dynamite upon potential impact. Maybe not only would they back off and allow for that extra quadratic distance but also put their phone down in the process.

Nah... Likely just wishful thinking. Still, might be some potential for at least a patent for a phone app. Just no chance at monetizing it since it would simply just be ignored.

Jay
Jeepoch, I totally agree with you here! I do believe that 99% of the drivers out there are fundamentally clueless as to the radical if not exponential increase in risk that comes from driving at higher speeds, much less tailgating or pushing the envelope of traction while driving at higher speeds. I see it every time I drive nowadays: people driving with NO margin for safety whatsoever, unlike how I would have seen most driving say 30 years ago. The recklessness with which so many drive nowadays has made me into an almost paranoid driver.
 

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Jeepoch, I totally agree with you here! I do believe that 99% of the drivers out there are fundamentally clueless as to the radical if not exponential increase in risk that comes from driving at higher speeds, much less tailgating or pushing the envelope of traction while driving at higher speeds. I see it every time I drive nowadays: people driving with NO margin for safety whatsoever, unlike how I would have seen most driving say 30 years ago. The recklessness with which so many drive nowadays has made me into an almost paranoid driver.
Yep. I find that I avoid certain roads altogether just for that reason. I-25 between Denver and Fort Collins is a great example. 85+ mph with no more than a car length between most vehicles. Snow and/or freezing rain not much of a difference. Also, the courtesy factor is now near non-existent. Colofornia is now like the coasts. Put your turn signal on and the cars next to you actually speed up.

Driving off-road around the Denver rat-race is so much more enjoyable. Glad I have the vehicle that allows me so many more options. I'd much rather avoid the moose and elk in the foothills than the Darwin award candidates around town.
 

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Dcmdon, from my many university physics courses, I am intimately aware of the square power function of kinetic energy, and it is never far from my mind while driving.
My explanation wasn't necessarily for you. It was for others who may be following along this thread who don't understand that kinetic energy increases as a square function of speed, or that something going twice as fast has 4x as much kinetic energy or that something going 3.2 times as fast has TEN TIMES as much kinetic energy.
 

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Yep. I find that I avoid certain roads altogether just for that reason. I-25 between Denver and Fort Collins is a great example. 85+ mph with no more than a car length between most vehicles. Snow and/or freezing rain not much of a difference. Also, the courtesy factor is now near non-existent. Colofornia is now like the coasts. Put your turn signal on and the cars next to you actually speed up.

Driving off-road around the Denver rat-race is so much more enjoyable. Glad I have the vehicle that allows me so many more options. I'd much rather avoid the moose and elk in the foothills than the Darwin award candidates around town.
I know the Front Range has been Cal-onized for decades now. When I was a young man in the 70s, I dreamed of moving out of California to Colorado, to be able to hunt and fish locally and to get away from the hustle and traffic. It seems that dream is long gone. Last time I was through the Front Range a few years ago, the traffic on I-25 was ridiculous.
 

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Joseph,

I off-road a lot in my 2019 2Door 3.6L Sport. No fancy anything in terms of transfer case options on my rig. No lower differential gears, lockers, duck buttons or any of the cool things available to you. However, my fun factor is still incredibly high when wheeling here in my home state of Colorado.

I find that lifted on 35's with manually disconnected sway bars along with the ZF8-speed transmission 'Autostick' allows me to go nearly anywhere here in the mountains I care to meander. Any day at or above treeline is certainly why I love this thing. Truthfully, driving around the flat lands along the Front Range is also a blast. This Wrangler is my daily driver and the best vehicle I've ever owned. I've owned it for exactly three years now, have 50K miles on the odometer and a good fraction of that has been off-road. Maybe 25% or more.

I am nearly always in either 4Hi or 4Lo when not on pavement. With the Sport's standard 2.72 transfer case and 3.45 gear ratio (much taller than your 4.0 and 4.10's respectively), I find my compromise in which 4wd gearing selection is mostly in anticipated my top speed. Since it's pretty easy to achieve 7th or 8th at just 20-25mph in 4Lo, I tend towards 4Hi only on well maintained county roads. However, I'll never shy away from going low whenever the conditions warrant. Any steep grade (either up or down) and 4Lo is generally a reflex decision. Having good engine braking available is typically never an after thought for me. It's a nice advantage to have all the tools at my disposal when within any serious off-road situation. Needing to switch to 4Lo (on the fly) when it's not already there is never in my (or your) best interest. Never. It's always best to think ahead.

So it basically comes down to this; can you trade top traveling speed for the potential of requiring significant (useful) engine braking at very low velocities? In 4Hi, 1st gear can be maintained (without red-lining) up to about 10mph. Way too fast for most off-road situations. So, anticipating travelling at a top threshold velocity of 15 to 20mph anywhere off-pavement is how I routinely use the 4wd transfer case lever.

Mountain trails, steep grades, inclement weather or any other mitigating factor nearly always finds me selecting 4Lo (along with a lighter than normal foot on the throttle). Open diffs also mean that I simply can't just muscle my way through the really tough stuff like you locker junkies can. Traction is absolutely my best friend. No slipping (spinning) of any wheels for me.

Furthermore, the Hill Decent Control (HDC) feature is by far the best thing since sliced bread when the situation arises. Needing to only manually brake going downhill is such a comfortable safety improvement. In fact one I would sorely miss if this feature wasn't available. Controlling your decent velocity in 0.7mph increments is just such a pleasure in the really extreme stuff. Not needing to ride the brakes in any safety critical condition is for me, priceless. If you don't know how HDC works or how to use it, figure it out and practice. It really is that good. Not that difficult to use. I love it.

However in snow, especially in the deeper stuff, I find that 4Hi using Traction Control (TC) is sometimes way superior. Regardless, every JL independent of trim, all support Brake Lock Differential (BLD). This automatically applies braking action to any single slipping wheel whenever any axle is not 'locked'. Recall, a locked axle mechanically connects both wheels on the same axle together. So both will spin at the same rate independent of applied torque. So with lockers any one wheel (of all four) that 'grips' will maintain forward momentum. When unlocked with open diffs, at least two wheels on the same axle must 'grip' to keep moving. Also recall that with an open differential (or unlocked axle), the slipping wheel gets the most delivered torque. So the slipping wheel only tends to slip even more. By automatically applying braking action to just that slipping wheel, then the other wheel gets more of the applied torque. In other words, BLD is a cheap semi-slip pseudo locker.

Another technical gotcha is that TC is generally only applied when driving 'straight'. It coordinates the braking action in concert on all four wheels on both axles to try and maintain traction and forward momentum. But both features [TC and BLD] really do help maintain traction in the most slippery of conditions. Yet interestingly, TC is completely disabled in 4Lo but BLD is not. Brake Lock Differential is always active on any wheel spinning at a faster rate than the other on the same axle. So even if you choose 4Lo (without lockers) the JL will still try it's best to keep you moving. So even us JL Sport pilots have a tremendous off-road advantage over every other Jeep model without lockers. That is also why the JL Rubicons can tackle quite a lot of the really tough stuff without the need to engage it's lockers. But as the old cliche goes, it's always better to have the capability available when needed than not having it when you don't.

In summary, there are always dynamic conditions which require some forward thinking when selecting the most appropriate 4wd mode. But by far (for me), in good conditions, I generally have a lot more fun in 4Lo at low speed when adventuring through the high altitude mountain passes that I call my back yard. Smelling the scent of Douglas Fur and Forest Pine is never something I tend to travel quickly through. I really, really enjoy getting off the beaten path and finding a panoramic vista that only people with a horse, good hiking boots or a Jeep can get to.

Have fun, stay safe, Jeep on...
Jay

InShot_20220214_082215949.jpg

InShot_20220214_082813942.jpg
InShot_20200915_223133135.jpg
Thank you for the thoughtful comments. I have aquesti
Joseph,

I off-road a lot in my 2019 2Door 3.6L Sport. No fancy anything in terms of transfer case options on my rig. No lower differential gears, lockers, duck buttons or any of the cool things available to you. However, my fun factor is still incredibly high when wheeling here in my home state of Colorado.

I find that lifted on 35's with manually disconnected sway bars along with the ZF8-speed transmission 'Autostick' allows me to go nearly anywhere here in the mountains I care to meander. Any day at or above treeline is certainly why I love this thing. Truthfully, driving around the flat lands along the Front Range is also a blast. This Wrangler is my daily driver and the best vehicle I've ever owned. I've owned it for exactly three years now, have 50K miles on the odometer and a good fraction of that has been off-road. Maybe 25% or more.

I am nearly always in either 4Hi or 4Lo when not on pavement. With the Sport's standard 2.72 transfer case and 3.45 gear ratio (much taller than your 4.0 and 4.10's respectively), I find my compromise in which 4wd gearing selection is mostly in anticipated my top speed. Since it's pretty easy to achieve 7th or 8th at just 20-25mph in 4Lo, I tend towards 4Hi only on well maintained county roads. However, I'll never shy away from going low whenever the conditions warrant. Any steep grade (either up or down) and 4Lo is generally a reflex decision. Having good engine braking available is typically never an after thought for me. It's a nice advantage to have all the tools at my disposal when within any serious off-road situation. Needing to switch to 4Lo (on the fly) when it's not already there is never in my (or your) best interest. Never. It's always best to think ahead.

So it basically comes down to this; can you trade top traveling speed for the potential of requiring significant (useful) engine braking at very low velocities? In 4Hi, 1st gear can be maintained (without red-lining) up to about 10mph. Way too fast for most off-road situations. So, anticipating travelling at a top threshold velocity of 15 to 20mph anywhere off-pavement is how I routinely use the 4wd transfer case lever.

Mountain trails, steep grades, inclement weather or any other mitigating factor nearly always finds me selecting 4Lo (along with a lighter than normal foot on the throttle). Open diffs also mean that I simply can't just muscle my way through the really tough stuff like you locker junkies can. Traction is absolutely my best friend. No slipping (spinning) of any wheels for me.

Furthermore, the Hill Decent Control (HDC) feature is by far the best thing since sliced bread when the situation arises. Needing to only manually brake going downhill is such a comfortable safety improvement. In fact one I would sorely miss if this feature wasn't available. Controlling your decent velocity in 0.7mph increments is just such a pleasure in the really extreme stuff. Not needing to ride the brakes in any safety critical condition is for me, priceless. If you don't know how HDC works or how to use it, figure it out and practice. It really is that good. Not that difficult to use. I love it.

However in snow, especially in the deeper stuff, I find that 4Hi using Traction Control (TC) is sometimes way superior. Regardless, every JL independent of trim, all support Brake Lock Differential (BLD). This automatically applies braking action to any single slipping wheel whenever any axle is not 'locked'. Recall, a locked axle mechanically connects both wheels on the same axle together. So both will spin at the same rate independent of applied torque. So with lockers any one wheel (of all four) that 'grips' will maintain forward momentum. When unlocked with open diffs, at least two wheels on the same axle must 'grip' to keep moving. Also recall that with an open differential (or unlocked axle), the slipping wheel gets the most delivered torque. So the slipping wheel only tends to slip even more. By automatically applying braking action to just that slipping wheel, then the other wheel gets more of the applied torque. In other words, BLD is a cheap semi-slip pseudo locker.

Another technical gotcha is that TC is generally only applied when driving 'straight'. It coordinates the braking action in concert on all four wheels on both axles to try and maintain traction and forward momentum. But both features [TC and BLD] really do help maintain traction in the most slippery of conditions. Yet interestingly, TC is completely disabled in 4Lo but BLD is not. Brake Lock Differential is always active on any wheel spinning at a faster rate than the other on the same axle. So even if you choose 4Lo (without lockers) the JL will still try it's best to keep you moving. So even us JL Sport pilots have a tremendous off-road advantage over every other Jeep model without lockers. That is also why the JL Rubicons can tackle quite a lot of the really tough stuff without the need to engage it's lockers. But as the old cliche goes, it's always better to have the capability available when needed than not having it when you don't.

In summary, there are always dynamic conditions which require some forward thinking when selecting the most appropriate 4wd mode. But by far (for me), in good conditions, I generally have a lot more fun in 4Lo at low speed when adventuring through the high altitude mountain passes that I call my back yard. Smelling the scent of Douglas Fur and Forest Pine is never something I tend to travel quickly through. I really, really enjoy getting off the beaten path and finding a panoramic vista that only people with a horse, good hiking boots or a Jeep can get to.

Have fun, stay safe, Jeep on...
Jay

InShot_20220214_082215949.jpg

InShot_20220214_082813942.jpg
InShot_20200915_223133135.jpg
Joseph,

I off-road a lot in my 2019 2Door 3.6L Sport. No fancy anything in terms of transfer case options on my rig. No lower differential gears, lockers, duck buttons or any of the cool things available to you. However, my fun factor is still incredibly high when wheeling here in my home state of Colorado.

I find that lifted on 35's with manually disconnected sway bars along with the ZF8-speed transmission 'Autostick' allows me to go nearly anywhere here in the mountains I care to meander. Any day at or above treeline is certainly why I love this thing. Truthfully, driving around the flat lands along the Front Range is also a blast. This Wrangler is my daily driver and the best vehicle I've ever owned. I've owned it for exactly three years now, have 50K miles on the odometer and a good fraction of that has been off-road. Maybe 25% or more.

I am nearly always in either 4Hi or 4Lo when not on pavement. With the Sport's standard 2.72 transfer case and 3.45 gear ratio (much taller than your 4.0 and 4.10's respectively), I find my compromise in which 4wd gearing selection is mostly in anticipated my top speed. Since it's pretty easy to achieve 7th or 8th at just 20-25mph in 4Lo, I tend towards 4Hi only on well maintained county roads. However, I'll never shy away from going low whenever the conditions warrant. Any steep grade (either up or down) and 4Lo is generally a reflex decision. Having good engine braking available is typically never an after thought for me. It's a nice advantage to have all the tools at my disposal when within any serious off-road situation. Needing to switch to 4Lo (on the fly) when it's not already there is never in my (or your) best interest. Never. It's always best to think ahead.

So it basically comes down to this; can you trade top traveling speed for the potential of requiring significant (useful) engine braking at very low velocities? In 4Hi, 1st gear can be maintained (without red-lining) up to about 10mph. Way too fast for most off-road situations. So, anticipating travelling at a top threshold velocity of 15 to 20mph anywhere off-pavement is how I routinely use the 4wd transfer case lever.

Mountain trails, steep grades, inclement weather or any other mitigating factor nearly always finds me selecting 4Lo (along with a lighter than normal foot on the throttle). Open diffs also mean that I simply can't just muscle my way through the really tough stuff like you locker junkies can. Traction is absolutely my best friend. No slipping (spinning) of any wheels for me.

Furthermore, the Hill Decent Control (HDC) feature is by far the best thing since sliced bread when the situation arises. Needing to only manually brake going downhill is such a comfortable safety improvement. In fact one I would sorely miss if this feature wasn't available. Controlling your decent velocity in 0.7mph increments is just such a pleasure in the really extreme stuff. Not needing to ride the brakes in any safety critical condition is for me, priceless. If you don't know how HDC works or how to use it, figure it out and practice. It really is that good. Not that difficult to use. I love it.

However in snow, especially in the deeper stuff, I find that 4Hi using Traction Control (TC) is sometimes way superior. Regardless, every JL independent of trim, all support Brake Lock Differential (BLD). This automatically applies braking action to any single slipping wheel whenever any axle is not 'locked'. Recall, a locked axle mechanically connects both wheels on the same axle together. So both will spin at the same rate independent of applied torque. So with lockers any one wheel (of all four) that 'grips' will maintain forward momentum. When unlocked with open diffs, at least two wheels on the same axle must 'grip' to keep moving. Also recall that with an open differential (or unlocked axle), the slipping wheel gets the most delivered torque. So the slipping wheel only tends to slip even more. By automatically applying braking action to just that slipping wheel, then the other wheel gets more of the applied torque. In other words, BLD is a cheap semi-slip pseudo locker.

Another technical gotcha is that TC is generally only applied when driving 'straight'. It coordinates the braking action in concert on all four wheels on both axles to try and maintain traction and forward momentum. But both features [TC and BLD] really do help maintain traction in the most slippery of conditions. Yet interestingly, TC is completely disabled in 4Lo but BLD is not. Brake Lock Differential is always active on any wheel spinning at a faster rate than the other on the same axle. So even if you choose 4Lo (without lockers) the JL will still try it's best to keep you moving. So even us JL Sport pilots have a tremendous off-road advantage over every other Jeep model without lockers. That is also why the JL Rubicons can tackle quite a lot of the really tough stuff without the need to engage it's lockers. But as the old cliche goes, it's always better to have the capability available when needed than not having it when you don't.

In summary, there are always dynamic conditions which require some forward thinking when selecting the most appropriate 4wd mode. But by far (for me), in good conditions, I generally have a lot more fun in 4Lo at low speed when adventuring through the high altitude mountain passes that I call my back yard. Smelling the scent of Douglas Fur and Forest Pine is never something I tend to travel quickly through. I really, really enjoy getting off the beaten path and finding a panoramic vista that only people with a horse, good hiking boots or a Jeep can get to.

Have fun, stay safe, Jeep on...
Jay

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Hi Jay - thank you for the great info here. We also have an auto 3.6 Sport S (Unlimited).and love it. Recently we went to Hawaii and rented turbo 4 cylinder Sahara Wrangler Unlimited. While driving down from a volcano, I couldn't control the speed via engine braking. I was surprised how hard I had to ride the brakes in 2H, 4H, and even 4L. Got me to wondering how well my 6 cylinder Sport S might do in the Rockies.

Living in Minnesota I haven't yet been able to test how well engine braking works on controlling speed on long grades. Does your Sport do well controlling speed via engine braking on long grades? I started a thread on this question herehttps://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/engine-braking-compression-braking-difference-between-4-and-6-cylinder-engines.104347/#post-2167029.

I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks,
Andrew
 
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Thank you for the thoughtful comments. I have aquesti


Hi Jay - thank you for the great info here. We also have an auto 3.6 Sport S (Unlimited).and love it. Recently we went to Hawaii and rented turbo 4 cylinder Sahara Wrangler Unlimited. While driving down from a volcano, I couldn't control the speed via engine braking. I was surprised how hard I had to ride the brakes in 2H, 4H, and even 4L. Got me to wondering how well my 6 cylinder Sport S might do in the Rockies.

Living in Minnesota I haven't yet been able to test how well engine braking works on controlling speed on long grades. Does your Sport do well controlling speed via engine braking on long grades? I started a thread on this question herehttps://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/engine-braking-compression-braking-difference-between-4-and-6-cylinder-engines.104347/#post-2167029.

I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks,
Andrew
I have definitely felt the lack of engine braking in my 2.0T! But oh my gosh does it run well! Your comments back up why I started this thread in the first place, glad I’m not alone in feeling little or no braking.
 

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@mnforester,
Andrew,

Engine braking certainly depends on many factors such as load, speed and grade. Tire diameter and gearing will also contribute pretty significantly.

As far as my JL experience, I have the 8 speed auto with the stock Sport axles (3.45 M186/M200 combo). I however installed 35's with a 2.5" lift so I'm not purely stock.

What I find is that engine braking works reasonably well at highways speeds in 2WD or 4Hi between 3rd through 5th but not so well at slower speeds. 1st and 2nd can easily handle 15 to 25 mph without redlining but the torque converter really handles any over rev condition quite well. So heavy braking using just the powertrain at lower speeds isn't very effective.

In 4Lo however, the lower 2.72 gear ratio dramatically increases low speed engine braking effectiveness. When in 4Lo I use the engine to brake quite frequently.

Here is my rule of thumb (just me):

In 2WD (or 4Hi):
1. I use engine braking when going downhill on long grades at highway speeds. Pretty effective to control velocity between 35 to 50 mph using 3rd through 5th. Living in Colorado, I do this often.
2. I really enjoy downshifting all over the place (using AutoStick) rather frequently. Fun as hell. It's like having a manual stick without the clutch. This certainly provides engine braking but nowhere near as effective due to the torque converter. Regardless, still quite the blast to still row through the gears. Note that upshifting is not as much fun just because the ZF8 shifts so much better than I generally do. But's it's always there to play with regardless.

4Lo:
I find that I'm rarely ever in 'D' when in 4Lo. I almost always use the engine to brake when I'm off-road. On steep downhill grades I also generally use the Hill-Decent Control feature. I just love controlling speed in 0.7mph increments without having to use the brake pedal. No more riding the brakes (unless absolutely necessary) while transversing down the steepest of grades.

Granted Hill-Decent Control uses the BLD braking system in conjunction with the transmission and drive-by-wire throttle to automatically regulate the downhill speed. But, to the driver it sure 'feels' just like engine braking.

I also am pretty ambidextrous in using both feet. Left for the brake, right for the throttle. But I practice this often. Truthfully I do get lazy on-road and rely mostly on the right foot to do both but off road having open diffs, throttle (and simultaneous brake) control to maintain traction is my primary objective.

So I hope this helps. I'm certainly not saying do it this way yourself. Everyone has their own driving style, so my recommendation is to find what makes you most comfortable. But experiment and find the conditions that feel both correct and natural.

These JL's are pretty awesome machines. Just like a jet pilot, I like to think that I wear my JL like a glove. It just fits me. I love the experience at driving this thing. And really literally being able to go nearly anywhere (at least within some sane reason without having lockers).

Jay
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