4WD or Not?

[J-Frame]

So here’s my question:
I have a 2021 JL Rubicon, it is my third or fourth Jeep, and I dearly love it. 2.0 Turbo/8-speed, 4.10’s. Totally stock Rubicon. I haven’t found anywhere I wanted to go that I can’t in this thing, so no modifications yet.

We do our off-reading more as “overlanding” or adventuring. As we call it “Where Does This Road Go?” And no body damage permitted.

So, we do a lot of forest service roads, barely maintained gravel and such in the East Tennessee/Western North Carolina area.

I find that quite often the speed I want to travel is slower than the road allows coasting downhill, and I end up dragging the brakes in 2WD. Would it be easier on the Jeep to shift into 4HI or even 4LO and let the engine braking maintain my speed? Often there is no need for me to be in 4WD for the traction, but since the Jeep doesn’t have a 2LO like my F-250, I just wondered if you folks cruised gravel forest service type areas in 4WD to be able to use the speed control/downhill descent control, and sway bar disconnect, even without the need for traction?

Thanks!
J-Frame

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[Jeepeto]

Absolutely, 4-Low is a fine option on chunky forest roads where you want to travel slower than high range gearing allows, also be sure to disconnect your sway bar as you mentioned for a smoother ride. If you have a Tazer JL the sway bar disconnect can be done in 2-High and it helps a lot too. If you will be on the trail for a longer period doing overland travel, airing down to 15-18 PSI will go a long way toward smoothing out the ride but probably isn’t worth the time if you’re just checking out random roads to see where they go unless they’re really bad washboard.

 

[zrickety]

So here’s my question:
I have a 2021 JL Rubicon, it is my third or fourth Jeep, and I dearly love it. 2.0 Turbo/8-speed, 4.10’s. Totally stock Rubicon. I haven’t found anywhere I wanted to go that I can’t in this thing, so no modifications yet.

We do our off-reading more as “overlanding” or adventuring. As we call it “Where Does This Road Go?” And no body damage permitted.

So, we do a lot of forest service roads, barely maintained gravel and such in the East Tennessee/Western North Carolina area.

I find that quite often the speed I want to travel is slower than the road allows coasting downhill, and I end up dragging the brakes in 2WD. Would it be easier on the Jeep to shift into 4HI or even 4LO and let the engine braking maintain my speed? Often there is no need for me to be in 4WD for the traction, but since the Jeep doesn’t have a 2LO like my F-250, I just wondered if you folks cruised gravel forest service type areas in 4WD to be able to use the speed control/downhill descent control, and sway bar disconnect, even without the need for traction?

Thanks!
J-Frame

Use that shifter and go down a gear, or three. You'll find engine braking will do all the work, even in 2wd.

 

[J-Frame]

Well, I should have mentioned I keep it in manual, usually 1st gear. Still too fast. The engine braking on the 2.0 is non-existent when compared to my 6.2L F-250. Many of the roads we are on are seriously torn up and washboarded by dummies spinning, especially on uphill sections.

Or, we are going slow looking at the view. Not on technical trails, just looking for cool stuff and photo ops a lot of the time.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

Just use the hill decent control.

 

[dcmdon]

Its irrelevant. Either will work fine.

the reality is that going down a hill slowly, even if its steep, puts less heat into the brakes than one stop from 60 mph getting off an exit ramp.

If you want engine braking, 4wd or Rwd will work. Are the wheels sliding in RWD. If yes, then 4WD will help. Or just use the brakes.

I personally wouldn't bother putting it in 4L to try to get more engine braking. Seems like a pain in teh ass for no benefit.

I'd probably shift it manually into 1st and use the brakes to make up for any extra braking needed.

I also use engine braking. My exit off the highway is a long 1.5 mile pretty steep downhill. This would put a LOT of energy/heat into the brakes. So I start slowing early and use the engine to get my down from roughly 75 to 40. This avoids putting roughly 70% of the of the total kinetic energy the vehicle has into the brakes.

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

I overland mostly and sometimes get into hairier stuff, but when overlanding, most of the time I'm in 2WD manual mode. I just downshift as needed. It's nice to be able to move into 4HI while in motion if it starts sliding around too much for my liking. Airing down a bit for extended dirt sections also helps, more in 2WD.

 

[At Risk Ute]

I don’t use the off-road plus or duck button. I use manual mode descending and will shift into 4H if I’m going fast enough to see 5th gear. Prefer engine breaking over using my brakes.

YMMV. Do what feels right to you.

 

[J-Frame]

Aired down this weekend only to 30 psi. Did notice smoother than the 37 we started with. Generally on a destination road we will be on gravel/dirt for several hours. I carry a Viair 300P and can use the hose too air down easily. Also carry anARB to drop psi. I’d like to try 25psi next trip then 20.

 

[dcmdon]

I overland mostly and sometimes get into hairier stuff, but when overlanding, most of the time I'm in 2WD manual mode. I just downshift as needed. It's nice to be able to move into 4HI while in motion if it starts sliding around too much for my liking. Airing down a bit for extended dirt sections also helps, more in 2WD.

I got SelecTrack full time 4wd for my Gladiator for the winters in NH when it can be ice in the shade and dry pavement in the sun.

But overlanding is also a good use for this system. Just as good as 4H in the slop and no binding when turning sharp on good traction surfaces.

All for $600. Its a total no brainer. I'm always amazed at how few people get it.

 

[J-Frame]

I got SelecTrack full time 4wd for my Gladiator for the winters in NH when it can be ice in the shade and dry pavement in the sun.

But overlanding is also a good use for this system. Just as good as 4H in the slop and no binding when turning sharp on good traction surfaces.

All for $600. Its a total no brainer. I'm always amazed at how few people get it.

I don’t remember for sure, but I don’t think the SelecTrack is an option on a Rubicon with the 4:1 T-case. Someone will correct me if I’m wrong. And I’m not looking really for more traction, just wondering about the best way to handle downhills when the ”coasting” speed is higher than I’m comfortable with. SelecTrak would have no effect on that.

I did have Chevy’s version on a Silverado and Toyota’s on a 4-Runner, they both worked well. Right up until they didn’t. Oddly, both those vehicles ended up on a rollback after failures…

 

[J0E]

I personally wouldn't bother putting it in 4L to try to get more engine braking. Seems like a pain in teh ass for no benefit.

I'd probably shift it manually into 1st and use the brakes to make up for any extra braking needed.

I strongly disagree. He said:

Well, I should have mentioned I keep it in manual, usually 1st gear. Still too fast.

If you're not going over 30 very often, 4 Lo is the way to go and use the gears for breaking.

The engine braking on the 2.0 is non-existent when compared to my 6.2L F-250. Many of the roads we are on are seriously torn up and washboarded by dummies spinning, especially on uphill sections.

I have the 2.0T and use engine breaking many times every weekend. It works great in 2 Low.

Aired down this weekend only to 30 psi. Did notice smoother than the 37 we started with. Generally on a destination road we will be on gravel/dirt for several hours. I carry a Viair 300P and can use the hose too air down easily. Also carry anARB to drop psi. I’d like to try 25psi next trip then 20.

Air down to 15 PSI, it will make a huge difference and it's also very safe. I have my JT Brooks air down values set to 13 on the front and 10 on the rear. Every weekend I tell my wife, "Air down for better traction" - she replies "No, air down for better ride.".

 

[dcmdon]

I don’t remember for sure, but I don’t think the SelecTrack is an option on a Rubicon with the 4:1 T-case. Someone will correct me if I’m wrong. And I’m not looking really for more traction, just wondering about the best way to handle downhills when the ”coasting” speed is higher than I’m comfortable with. SelecTrak would have no effect on that.

I did have Chevy’s version on a Silverado and Toyota’s on a 4-Runner, they both worked well. Right up until they didn’t. Oddly, both those vehicles ended up on a rollback after failures…

The only advantage of a full time 4wd system would be you dont' need to shift in and out as terrain changes.

I strongly disagree. He said:

I'm genuinely curious why you do think its worth maximizing engine braking by shifting into Low range.

If this was 1985, I'd agree with you. If you lock a front wheel you lose the ability to steer. Lock a back wheel the back end can come around on you. Engine braking eliminates the chance of a locked wheel but can still cause the truck to slide if you select too low a gear. (the tires are turning, but they aren't turning as fast as the Jeep is moving)

But ABS gives you the same or better performance.

 

[J-Frame]

dcmdon,
I'm not sure if you are asking me (The OP), or someone responding. I haven't said anything about a tire losing traction at all. My question really revolves around overheating the brakes by riding them or using 4Lo and the gear reduction offered by the 4:1 case in my Rubicon to maintain a slow enough speed on badly worn, rutted up Forest Service roads we frequent. Wifey has back issues, and I have pretty severe shoulder issues, so the head-toss is a problem, and sometimes we just want to go slow and see the view. The 2Hi range, even locked in manual and 1st gear is frequently too fast. And at least in my opinion, the engine braking on the 2.0Turbo is pretty non-existent unless I'm running high revs.

J-Frame

 

[J0E]

The only advantage of a full time 4wd system would be you dont' need to shift in and out as terrain changes.



I'm genuinely curious why you do think its worth maximizing engine braking by shifting into Low range.

If this was 1985, I'd agree with you. If you lock a front wheel you lose the ability to steer. Lock a back wheel the back end can come around on you. Engine braking eliminates the chance of a locked wheel but can still cause the truck to slide if you select too low a gear. (the tires are turning, but they aren't turning as fast as the Jeep is moving)

But ABS gives you the same or better performance.

Any serious wheeler knows the advantage of engine braking. Minor brake/gas inputs rather than constant mashing on the brake.

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