0w20 more engine wear?

[wreck99]

I had been running Pennzoil Platinum 0/20 from 22K-65K changing ever 5K. At the last oil change I switched to AmsOil 0/20.

My first oil change I used Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 and plan to change it every 5k after the first couple of early changes. I'm going to try Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for my next change, just wish it was readily available in stores around here.

Sponsored

 

[Willys41]

Just picked up Valvoline 4w40 European
That's what I will be using from now on

 

[jav_eee]

just wish it was readily available in stores around here.

I get mine at advanced auto

 

[wreck99]

I get mine at advanced auto

Ahh good call. I just checked their website and it says they carry near me. Dummy me only checked Walmart, Pepboys, O'reillys, and Autozone. We have too many auto stores within 5 miles lol. Looks like Amazon is cheaper though. But good to know it's local. Thank you!

 

[jav_eee]

Ahh good call. I just checked their website and it says they carry near me. Dummy me only checked Walmart, Pepboys, O'reillys, and Autozone. We have too many auto stores within 5 miles lol. Looks like Amazon is cheaper though. But good to know it's local. Thank you!

I tried ordering it through Amazon. First time it arrived with the cap messed up and leaked oil on my sidewalk. Probably from the delivery driver just dropping it. I requested a replacement and that one probably got damaged and leaked somewhere along the way as it was marked “damaged, undeliverable” and I was issued a refund. I got tired of waiting so I just bit the bullet and went to advanced.

 

[UncleJimmy]

Just picked up Valvoline 4w40 European
That's what I will be using from now on

Right now I'm running 0w40 and seems to run smoother, quieter. Cold starts sound perfect; can't tell any difference compared to 0w20. Oil is staying much cleaner as well. I may go to a 10w40 for summer as I would really like to get the HTHS over 4 to possibly help protect the rocker rollers etc. One thing I discovered is if I use ramps and lift the front end, I get an extra .5 qt of oil out so less old oil in the engine and 5.5 in to full on the dipstick.

I also tried Seafoam and had really good results with that. I was developing knock and now I can't induce it no matter how hard I try. I used it in the fuel, intake and crankcase. The trick with using it in fuel is to wait until you are on 2-3 gallons of reserve fuel and WOT driving for 20-40 miles. When I did the intake I let the engine get up to 220+ and it smoked good - this was using the spray version. And for the crankcase, I drove it for 300 mi and then flushed and changed again. I want as much oil flowing in to the top end of the engine so hoping the Seafoam may have dissolved any sludge from the free oil changes the Jeep had at the beginning.

 

[Willys41]

I just changed my oil on my Willys and put in 5w40
Seems much quieter
I will do my Rubicon next

 

[UncleJimmy]

I never heard back from RPM so I just went with the Tazer. Should work fine for my uses as I don't have much stop and go and heat usually only builds up for me with crawling or steep grades, and I can force that easy enough with the Tazer.

 

[GRAK]

Uh. Is this a scam?

 

[Willys41]

Works for me on both my Wranglers

 

[swampflyer]

FYI my 1st time oil analysis arrived yesterday by email and shows no wear or problems at all. I've changed oil three times (Amsoil 0-20).

 

[UncleJimmy]

Uh. Is this a scam?

More oil can't hurt, only help. Not sure it's necessary. There is some residual oil retained in the oil filter housing. So I'm undecided. I have some concerns about adding leverage to the oil cooler. And the price is a little much.

EDIT: What's more important than a Baxter IMHO? If someone is starting with a lighter grade oil and combines that with added heat you have a winning recipe for increased engine failures.

 

[Willys41]

For you unbelievers in the Baxter adapter
Simple test
Let you jeep set over night
Remove the oil filter housing cap and pull the filter
What you will find is NO oil in the filter housing and NO oil dripping from the filter
All the oil from the filter housing / oil cooler has drained back to the oil pan
There is NO check valve in the factory filter housing
When starting your cold 3.6 you have to fill the filter housing AND push all that air through the oil galleys
The Baxter has a check valve and also the spin on oil filter has a anti drain back valve
This is not rocket science. Its gravity. Liquid will flow to its lowest point if allowed to do so
Here is a picture of a oil filter showing the anti drain back valve

 

[UncleJimmy]

For you unbelievers in the Baxter adapter
Simple test
Let you jeep set over night
Remove the oil filter housing cap and pull the filter
What you will find is NO oil in the filter housing and NO oil dripping from the filter
All the oil from the filter housing / oil cooler has drained back to the oil pan
There is NO check valve in the factory filter housing
When starting your cold 3.6 you have to fill the filter housing AND push all that air through the oil galleys
The Baxter has a check valve and also the spin on oil filter has a anti drain back valve
This is not rocket science. Its gravity. Liquid will flow to its lowest point if allowed to do so
Here is a picture of a oil filter showing the anti drain back valve

First off, I am not an unbeliever, just undecided and don't want to spend almost $350 on something if I don't need it.

Second, you and and @CarbonSteel all ready had this discussion, and you reported you found about an additional cup of oil after pulling the filter (we know the filter is dry, were talking about some trapped by the small O ring).

I was reading the comments on the Northridge video, found this:

"As soon as I heard the rocker/lifter tick on my 2013 JKUR, I stopped driving it and a few days later I did the work to replace all of them with the new "improved" rockers and lifters. Guess what? After sitting for several days, the rockers and cam shafts still had a coating of oil on them."

So again, I'm not against it, but why do I need it if there is oil on the rockers, there is at least some oil in the filter housing, and my engine puurs like a kitten on cold start?

Lastly, we know the oil cooler leaks are coming usually not from cracked housing but the seals drying out from repeated heat/cooling cycles and possibly from leverage when doing oil changes. Even being extra carful, it's almost impossible not to cause the cooler to move from side to side when removing the oil filter. Does the Baxter help that by making the filter easier to remove with less torque or is it hurting it by increasing the leverage on the OC?

 

[Willys41]

You all can do what you want put common sense would say
A empty filter housing and oil cooler is not a good thing
I have changed thousands of oil filters in the last 50 years as a mechanic and 99.9% of the time oil will pour out of the filter when it is removed. Not so on the 3.6. It is empty. Completely empty
As far as the $350 cost. Drop it the bucket compared to my other mods
Bead locks and tires $6000
Gearing & 4.5 lift 2.5 shocks suspension part $9000
Drive shafts $1400
Delta brakes $2500
Bumpers winches recovery gear $2500
Inside and out side mods $4000
Just a few that I can remember
$350 to keep your oil filter full of oil. I can deal with that

Sponsored