0w20 more engine wear?

[speedymart]

I trying to make sense of the different opinions in this thread. It seems then, you are saying that for 99% of us the 0W-20 is fine. Perhaps if towing in higher rev ranges or racing then maybe a thicker viscosity is better. Is this correct?

Yes. If you're just always cruising around than 0w-20 is totally fine. If you frequently haul stuff, drive a manual, or like to floor it frequently/shift manually than you should use 0w-30.

I personally would just use 0w-30 regardless as the price is almost identical for quality oil. I'm sure there's more 0w-20 bulk available so it's probably a bit cheaper if you're having a shop change it for you.

Sponsored

 

[TheRaven]

I trying to make sense of the different opinions in this thread. It seems then, you are saying that for 99% of us the 0W-20 is fine. Perhaps if towing in higher rev ranges or racing then maybe a thicker viscosity is better. Is this correct?

0W-20 is fine for 100% of us. If you are doing something extreme enough to warrant using a heavier oil, your JL is not going to survive long enough for long term engine wear to be a concern. Gotta keep things in perspective - we're talking about an FCA product here.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

Or just use the best oil on the planet, 0W20 redline

 

[Heimkehr]

Or just use the best oil on the planet, 0W20 redline

Hey, now...I use Red Line in the crunchiest of gearboxes, to excellent effect (meaning, a quieter and more refined crunchiness )

 

[Rodeoflyer]

That stuff works great in diffs as well ?

 

[Pig-Pen]

as long as you run Amsoil it doesnt matter what weight you run or even if you use an Oring or not. hell, you dont even need to change the filter!

































PM me for more details and a discount code

 

[Rodeoflyer]

PM me for more details and a discount code

That says it all

 

[Heimkehr]

PM me for more details and a discount code

All: please give a warm welcome to Steve's girlfriend.

 

[Pig-Pen]

All: please give a warm welcome to Steve's girlfriend.

shes my best sales rep! she brings in at least $300 a year in new sales! ususaly from the Tesla forums, which is kinda weird but whatever. as long as she keeps spreading the oily gospel!

 

[azjl#3]

0w-20 has been proven to not add any additional significant wear under normal driving scenarios. If you're constantly racing the engine at high RPM you will 100% see the downfalls of using this lighter oil.

Like 99% of the vehicles on the road at automatics, and the amount of those that see frequent redline is even less. Most will only get near it if they need to floor is when accelerating onto an on-ramp or something.

Manuals see high RPM use much more frequently as they're usually driven by those who enjoy more spirited driving. My 2016 JK only saw 5w-20 oil for the first oil change and then was strictly 5w-30 until I installed an edelbrock supercharge at which point I began running 5w-40. Never had a single rocker arm failure (or leaking oil filter housing) for the time we owned it. Got stolen around 44k miles this year.

Because you used non spec oil! The thieves KNEW it was better!, seriously that sucks, sorry.

 

[azjl#3]

The amount of plastics that Jeep is using in these vehicles is asinine at best.

In my best HK rep voice, "these are not made of plastic, they are a space age composite..."


Seriously, we need to remember in years to come back and post up how long we drove with what oil spec and what happened to the motor. So we will have a sample size of, what, 5 engines? Thats scientific.

Best example of oil engineering I can describe, a ford 5.0 block I pulled out of an explorer with 80,000 miles on the clock, cylinders still had what looked like new cross hatching, bearings looked brand new. Top end was clean as a whistle. Oil was changed using synthetic every 8k. Thats from a block designed back in the Carter administration to last 75,000 miles using 20w30 dyno oil.

 

[CarbonSteel]

In my best HK rep voice, "these are not made of plastic, they are a space age composite..."


Seriously, we need to remember in years to come back and post up how long we drove with what oil spec and what happened to the motor. So we will have a sample size of, what, 5 engines? Thats scientific.

Best example of oil engineering I can describe, a ford 5.0 block I pulled out of an explorer with 80,000 miles on the clock, cylinders still had what looked like new cross hatching, bearings looked brand new. Top end was clean as a whistle. Oil was changed using synthetic every 8k. Thats from a block designed back in the Carter administration to last 75,000 miles using 20w30 dyno oil.

They can be made of "whatfreakingever" the fact remains the materials do not fit the use case and to have it start leaking at 50K miles is a serious design flaw.

As I have said before, IF I were the only one to experience this, then fine, things happen in mass produced products. BUT, I am NOT the only one, so this is a design flaw on FCAs part and they have had PLENTY of time to not only know that it happens, BUT to fix it.

SMDH

 

[roaniecowpony]

This is going in my 3.6 when I retrieve it from Arizona.

 

[AFD]

This is going in my 3.6 when I retrieve it from Arizona.

For real? Probably a good oil, like the rest of their stuff. Let us know if your fuel economy and horsepower improve!

"Enhanced frictional properties help enable improved fuel economy, higher horsepower and reduced engine wear"

And $27/gallon isn't a bad price at all..

https://www.evolubesupply.com/mobil-1-supercar-0-40-55-gal-208-2-liter-drum-126871/

 

[CarbonSteel]

This is going in my 3.6 when I retrieve it from Arizona.

I have a friend in TX who has ran 0W-40 from the first oil change and is now bumping 130K with zero issues.

Solid oil!

Sponsored