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0w20 more engine wear?

grimmjeeper

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Crowbar

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Wow, the big testing standards people must be worried that the little YouTube guy is a threat to their industry.

Like big Pharma telling us that... never mind I won't go there.

Huckster tests or not, it still showed performance differences between them. Whether or not that translates to any difference inside of an engine is to be seen. I think bacon grease did really really well in the wear scar test. I am all for using bacon grease if they can make it stay fluid when it cools down. Just the smell alone will be worth it
Would you recommend thick cut peppered bacon over regular bacon?
 
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Upnarms

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Would you recommend thick cut peppered bacon over regular bacon?
Only for summers, when towing. Use Applewood smoked, for winter
 

TheRaven

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1. Selling vehicles at the least cost possible while acquiring the maximum amount of CAFE credits
2. Designing a vehicle to last past the warranty period because after that they can wash their hands of it
We've already been over this - manufacturers do not "wash their hands" after the warranty period. They live and die by their reputations. This is the 21st century and we expect NO internal engine issues within the life of a vehicle...not like the 90's where an engine that could make it to 100k without issue was a modern wonder. This century, you aren't "playin with the big boys" until you are firmly in the 200k club. So NO, manufacturers are NOT doing anything that's going to compromise engine longevity within the confines of the mileage that modern buyers expect out of their vehicles. Yes they make compromises for the sake of cost and CAFE, but those compromises look like DoD and Direct Injection - NEVER things like subpar lubrication. Garnering a reputation of building engines that implode at 120k would be an absolute disaster for any major automaker.

Furthermore, if you are getting your oil temp up to where 0W-20 is out of its effective range, you need to stop doing whatever is causing that - cause you are doing lots of damage elsewhere.

I love this topic. It's on every single automotive forum. With exactly the same arguments and walls of text. Every. Single. Time.
Yup. Every single forum ever...and they're all still going!!
 

CarbonSteel

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Yes they make compromises for the sake of cost and CAFE, but those compromises look like DoD and Direct Injection - NEVER things like subpar lubrication. Garnering a reputation of building engines that implode at 120k would be an absolute disaster for any major automaker.

Furthermore, if you are getting your oil temp up to where 0W-20 is out of its effective range, you need to stop doing whatever is causing that - cause you are doing lots of damage elsewhere.
If I were the only one seeing these temperatures, I would agree, but I am not and again a xW-20 is at the minimum for wear so shearing and temperatures can easily push its viscosity below that.

As far subpar, if you think that having to replace a plastic oil filter housing at 70-80K is not subpar, I am not sure that a better definition can be found--this is only one of the examples of CAFE compromise that I gave. You may not have experienced these issues yet, and hopefully you never do, but the odds are definitely saying that you will.

With that said, I am going to agree to disagree with you. Good luck!
 

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TheRaven

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If I were the only one seeing these temperatures, I would agree, but I am not and again a xW-20 is at the minimum for wear so shearing and temperatures can easily push its viscosity below that.
The fact is though that you shouldn't be. So either you have a cooling issue, or you are doing things that are well beyond what the vehicle was designed for and in that case the oil viscosity is pretty low on the list of things you should be concerned about.

As far subpar, if you think that having to replace a plastic oil filter housing at 70-80K is not subpar, I am not sure that a better definition can be found--this is only one of the examples of CAFE compromise that I gave. You may not have experienced these issues yet, and hopefully you never do, but the odds are definitely saying that you will.
The plastic filter housing is not a CAFE compromise. I doubt its even a cost thing (if low-cost is what they were after, a lower block mounted filter would have been the choice). Based on my extensive experience, I promise you it's just what some young designer considered "innovation".

Here's a good case-in-point for this discussion - my Silverado. GM has been spec'ing 0w-20 in their DoD V8s since 2013. There are endless examples of these trucks used in commercial applications, with 300k+ miles on them, having received nothing better than 5-10k mile oil changes with factory oil. Now, they DEFINITELY have received a couple of top end rebuilds due to the DoD lifters (best example of a CAFE compromise one can imagine), but there is not a single story out there of any kind of failure due to insufficient lubrication. And keep in mind - these trucks have spent their entire working lives being subjected to work and conditions far beyond anything your JL will ever see. We're talking literally millions of trucks here - and that's just GM. Keep in mind Ram uses the exact same system and oil spec. If there were ANY concern of long term issues due to 0W-20, the net would be absolutely crammed with examples.
 
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Upnarms

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The fact is though that you shouldn't be. So either you have a cooling issue, or you are doing things that are well beyond what the vehicle was designed for and in that case the oil viscosity is pretty low on the list of things you should be concerned about.



The plastic filter housing is not a CAFE compromise. I doubt its even a cost thing (if low-cost is what they were after, a lower block mounted filter would have been the choice). Based on my extensive experience, I promise you it's just what some young designer considered "innovation".

Here's a good case-in-point for this discussion - my Silverado. GM has been spec'ing 0w-20 in their DoD V8s since 2013. There are endless examples of these trucks used in commercial applications, with 300k+ miles on them, having received nothing better than 5-10k mile oil changes with factory oil. Now, they DEFINITELY have received a couple of top end rebuilds due to the DoD lifters (best example of a CAFE compromise one can imagine), but there is not a single story out there of any kind of failure due to insufficient lubrication. And keep in mind - these trucks have spent their entire working lives being subjected to work and conditions far beyond anything your JL will ever see. We're talking literally millions of trucks here - and that's just GM. Keep in mind Ram uses the exact same system and oil spec. If there were ANY concern of long term issues due to 0W-20, the net would be absolutely crammed with examples.
I can tell you from our fleet experience with 2018 silverados using 0w20, they were drinking over 2 qts between oil changes and one went for major engine work under 50k miles. I'm not the fleet mechanic so I can't tell you what went wrong, but they told me specifically the silverados using the 0w20 were consuming oil heavily and it was a known issue. I have no knowledge of other model years,but our ford f150s didn't use 0w20 and had no issues. That doesn't conclude it was the oil alone, but I'm just stating our experience with silverados using 0w20. Maybe it was a problem with that model year.
 

CarbonSteel

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The fact is though that you shouldn't be. So either you have a cooling issue, or you are doing things that are well beyond what the vehicle was designed for and in that case the oil viscosity is pretty low on the list of things you should be concerned about.
The plastic filter housing is not a CAFE compromise. I doubt its even a cost thing (if low-cost is what they were after, a lower block mounted filter would have been the choice). Based on my extensive experience, I promise you it's just what some young designer considered "innovation".
I am not doing anything with my vehicle that other Jeepers have not done--just because you have yet to experience cooling issues with your 3.6L does not mean they do not exist...give it some time.

As for the oil cooler, of course it was--1000% related to weight savings that are directly connected to CAFE. If you think otherwise, you need to do some research. The introduction of plastics as engine/chassis parts are connected to two things--cost savings and weight savings. They are certainly not for durability. Do you really think the plastic sockets in the OEM ball joints are durable?

I am not nor have I ever said that xW-20 is going to cause a lubrication failure or cause a pile of issues, but I am saying it is at the limit for wear and depending on your use case, you may want to consider a different viscosity--if not, no harm no foul.

Again, I agree to disagree.
 

TheRaven

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I am not doing anything with my vehicle that other Jeepers have not done--just because you have yet to experience cooling issues with your 3.6L does not mean they do not exist...give it some time.
So then address the cooling issue, don't band-aid it by changing oil because you're not addressing all the other issues that heat will cause over time.

As for the oil cooler, of course it was--1000% related to weight savings that are directly connected to CAFE. If you think otherwise, you need to do some research. The introduction of plastics as engine/chassis parts are connected to two things--cost savings and weight savings. They are certainly not for durability. Do you really think the plastic sockets in the OEM ball joints are durable?
Sorry man but those parts are not plastic for weight savings. Those parts are plastic for cost - that's part of the "innovation" because many of those cost-saving stunts could not be created with metal. Besides, many of the plastic parts weigh more than their (usually formerly aluminum) counterparts anyway.

I am not nor have I ever said that xW-20 is going to cause a lubrication failure or cause a pile of issues, but I am saying it is at the limit for wear and depending on your use case, you may want to consider a different viscosity--if not, no harm no foul.

Again, I agree to disagree.
This statement I can agree to disagree on. It's only slightly off...0W-20 is not close to it's limit in these modern applications however if you choose a different viscosity for MORE cushion because it helps you sleep at night I won't fault you. I have many nonsensical rituals that I stick to on my vehicles also and I know how that feels. Peace of mind can be worth a LOT.
 

Heimkehr

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The introduction of plastics as engine/chassis parts are connected to two things--cost savings and weight savings. They are certainly not for durability.
To date, I've had to replace two plastic radiators in two Hondas, due to hairline cracks developing on the tops of each. Said cracks were barely visible, but the combined effect of heat and pressure allowed just enough coolant to leach out that replacement of both radiators was compulsory. It annoyed me to know that I was just buying time here.

I'm not averse to finding economies where possible, but some components should be off limits to such efforts. Metal radiators qualify here.
 

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TheRaven

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I can tell you from our fleet experience with 2018 silverados using 0w20, they were drinking over 2 qts between oil changes and one went for major engine work under 50k miles. I'm not the fleet mechanic so I can't tell you what went wrong, but they told me specifically the silverados using the 0w20 were consuming oil heavily and it was a known issue. I have no knowledge of other model years,but our ford f150s didn't use 0w20 and had no issues. That doesn't conclude it was the oil alone, but I'm just stating our experience with silverados using 0w20. Maybe it was a problem with that model year.
I can tell you what the "major engine work" was - the lifters. That's a given. But there is no documented systemic issue with oil consumption. These engines consume oil just as they have always done, but there's no evidence to support the idea that 0W-20 changed that behavior in any meaningful way. So perhaps it was abuse or there was a short term issue.

To date, I've had to replace two plastic radiators in two Hondas, due to hairline cracks developing on the tops of each. Said cracks were barely visible, but the combined effect of heat and pressure allowed just enough coolant to leach out that replacement of both radiators was compulsory. It annoyed me to know that I was just buying time here.

I'm not averse to finding economies where possible, but some components should be off limits to such efforts. Metal radiators qualify here.
Subarus were notorious for their plastic radiator caps all the way back to the late 90s. If you had a Subaru over 80k miles, you replaced at least one radiator.
 

UncleJimmy

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Absolutely. Everything internal is designed around the intended lubricant. The best chance the engine has with wear on start-up is the thinner oil. Of course, one draw back to the 3.6 is there is no check valve at the filter, but there's aftermarket goodies for that. That and this thing makes 80+psi of oil pressure when needed.

Do you think there is any harm to the engine (3.6) to downshifting using the engine to slow the vehicle? I notice the oil pressure increases to 80+.
 
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Upnarms

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Do you think there is any harm to the engine (3.6) to downshifting using the engine to slow the vehicle? I notice the oil pressure increases to 80+.
That's what I found it's supposed to do at high rpms. Mine jumps to the 70s when I'm climbing hills and it downshifts.
 

CarbonSteel

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To date, I've had to replace two plastic radiators in two Hondas, due to hairline cracks developing on the tops of each. Said cracks were barely visible, but the combined effect of heat and pressure allowed just enough coolant to leach out that replacement of both radiators was compulsory. It annoyed me to know that I was just buying time here.

I'm not averse to finding economies where possible, but some components should be off limits to such efforts. Metal radiators qualify here.
The amount of plastics that Jeep is using in these vehicles is asinine at best. Using the oil cooler as an example, Dorman is able to make it from aluminum, Ford and Mercedes can (and FCA should have copied that when Daimler owned Jeep) so why can't FCA? In addition, if plastic is going to be used, then make damn sure the design has enough support and clamping force to seal it. Had FCA machined grooves into the block for the orings to go into, the support would have been substantial. As it is, the orings harden and without "bottom" support, they simply start leaking and despite more than a decade of evidence, no improvements were made to ensure they will not leak. LAF

Plastic valve covers, plastic radiator tanks, plastic ball joint internals, plastic FAD bushing are great examples of what you should not do. In fairness many OEMs are doing this, but there are some who have a brain on where they should not be used. Color me unimpressed...
 

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The amount of plastics that Jeep is using in these vehicles is asinine at best. Using the oil cooler as an example, Dorman is able to make it from aluminum, Ford and Mercedes can (and FCA should have copied that when Daimler owned Jeep) so why can't FCA? In addition, if plastic is going to be used, then make damn sure the design has enough support and clamping force to seal it. Had FCA machined grooves into the block for the orings to go into, the support would have been substantial. As it is, the orings harden and without "bottom" support, they simply start leaking and despite more than a decade of evidence, no improvements were made to ensure they will not leak. LAF

Plastic valve covers, plastic radiator tanks, plastic ball joint internals, plastic FAD bushing are great examples of what you should not do. In fairness many OEMs are doing this, but there are some who have a brain on where they should not be used. Color me unimpressed...
TBH, while I generally agree that the oil filter housing/cooler in the 3.6 would be best made of aluminum, I think there's more to the failures than just the design. My JK had the OG Gen 1 3.6 filter housing/cooler assembly and ran perfectly fine for a decade and 100k mi, with the 3.6 spinning 35s+ for every single mile, and since I had the NAG1 I was constantly at high RPM, so it tended to run warm which negatively impacts o-rings and plastics life. Of the folks I wheel with that have run 3.6s, every single failure I have seen and fixed with the assembly has been due to improper torque. Now, a better design would be more survivable when confronted with people who over torque the cap, absolutely, but generally speaking taking care with it can and does prevent leaking.

Also, for plastic things, fuck the asshole that decided the plastic intake manifold needs to cover the driver's side coils and plugs. Fuck them very much.
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