Disable Start Stop for FREE; NOT Hood Pin Trick!

[Deleted User 38384]

So I was just watching a video on how to disable start stop on a Ford ranger, and I recognized the plug the guy was pulling. We have one as well on our Wranglers.

Made a little YouTube video to sum it all up for you guys.

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[Heimkehr]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you unplugged the battery health monitor (what you call a "sensor-type thing") that is connected to the negative post.

If that's not accurate, I'm happy to be corrected.

Anyway, just an FYI for you, Greg.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you unplugged the battery health monitor (what you call a "sensor-type thing") that is connected to the negative post.

If that's not accurate, I'm happy to be corrected.

Anyway, just an FYI for you, Greg.

Interesting, I'll have to look at that dash stat tomorrow when I head into work. I'll let you know for sure if the battery health meter is working.

Personally I have no idea what that little sensor I unplugged is, I just know it lights up less of the dash than the hood sensor trick. ?

 

[jav_eee]

This is how the ford guys do it too. Coincidentally they say it extends battery life FOR THEM as well because the alternator charges like they used to back in the day, constant 13.7+

 

[NWJeepr]

All I know is there's some kind of current draw even with the vehicle and all the accessories off. I took two cables off the negative battery post (primary and aux batteries) the other day while I was installing the Mopar trailer brake controller, per the instructions. When I reconnected the 2nd negative cable, I got a HUGE arc as I placed it on the terminal. It was a bit unnerving...a little tiny spark is normal sometimes on some cars, but not a huge one like that! Be careful if you're going to fool around with those.

 

[Jebiruph]

That's the IBS, I accidently left it unplugged and that turned on the ESS error light, so that won't help anyone that doesn't want a constant error light.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you unplugged the battery health monitor (what you call a "sensor-type thing") that is connected to the negative post.

If that's not accurate, I'm happy to be corrected.

Anyway, just an FYI for you, Greg.

All I know is there's some kind of current draw even with the vehicle and all the accessories off. I took two cables off the negative battery post (primary and aux batteries) the other day while I was installing the Mopar trailer brake controller, per the instructions. When I reconnected the 2nd negative cable, I got a HUGE arc as I placed it on the terminal. It was a bit unnerving...a little tiny spark is normal sometimes on some cars, but not a huge one like that! Be careful if you're going to fool around with those.

That's the IBS, I accidently left it unplugged and that turned on the ESS error light, so that won't help anyone that doesn't want a constant error light.

I was going to post photos, but a video gives better knowledge points, and it's easier to upload a 60-second video then writing a comment after each photo. Easier to make, easier to post. ?

 

[VKSheridan]

All I know is there's some kind of current draw even with the vehicle and all the accessories off.

Yes sir, with our rigs, they’re not totally “off”. I imagine the little spark of the radio memory is what you were expecting but these new rides have a bit more draw. For starters, the module that is always listening for commands from your key fob. The security sensors that are energized and waiting for a “thunk”. That stupid PCM that keep the batteries isolated by keep the relay energized. In essence, pretty much every electronic control module on your Jeep is energized with the key off except for the ignition and fan controller.

The large arc you saw was all them capacitors recharging. Luckily, once they’re charged, the draw falls off.

 

[SargeDiesel]

That sensor is the: intelegent battery sensor (IBS) it monitors your batteries' health, i.e. voltage, temperature. You do you, but I would either Isolate the aux battery and pull fuse 42 or buy an ESS/ASS eliminator for $50... I wouldn't unplug the IBS.

From the web :

Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS)
The shunt-type IBS continuously analyzes the status of conventional 12-Volt lead acid batteries and provides information on such key parameters as the state-of-charge, state-of-function (power ability) and state-of-health (aging) of the battery. The sensor is thus essential to the reliable operation of automotive start-stop systems. The IBS is mounted directly onto the battery and fits exactly into the niche around the negative terminal. This means that it can be deployed with any standard battery. The sensor enhances the automobile’s diagnostic ability and can thus warn of possible breakdowns that may not even be caused by the battery. Moreover, the IBS helps to extend battery life by 10 to 20 percent via an improved charging strategy.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

...You do you, but I would either Isolate the aux battery and pull fuse 42 or buy an ESS/ASS eliminator for $50...

I replaced the main battery a couple weeks back and when I did I deleted the auxiliary battery.

...Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS)
...The sensor is thus essential to the reliable operation of automotive start-stop systems...

Wait!?! So the sensor is essential to the system we're trying to defeat?

I wonder if that's why it works so well?

 

[SargeDiesel]

I replaced the main battery a couple weeks back and when I did I deleted the auxiliary battery.



Wait!?! So the sensor is essential to the system we're trying to defeat?

I wonder if that's why it works so well?

Lol.... just quoting... didn't make it up... ha ha

So pull fuse 42 and be done with it, no other mods necessary. ?

 

[Deleted User 38384]

Lol.... just quoting... didn't make it up... ha ha

So pull fuse 42 and be done with it, no other mods necessary. ?

Mmmm, maybe. I actually haven't pulled fuse 42 yet. Maybe I should?

When I first remove the auxiliary battery, I tried removing fuse 42, and it wouldn't start the vehicle. But now that I have swapped out the PCMs, just last night actually, I was able to pull out fuse f-42 and the Wrangler still started. So I guess I could probably pull out fuse 42, reconnect the IBS sensor, and see if that fixes the auto start stop system without throwing any codes. Honestly the less lights lit up on the dash, the happier I am. Less things to blind me when I'm driving on pitch black roads.

I'll let you know guy.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Mmmm, maybe. I actually haven't pulled fuse 42 yet. Maybe I should?

When I first remove the auxiliary battery, I tried removing fuse 42, and it wouldn't start the vehicle. But now that I have swapped out the PCMs, just last night actually, I was able to pull out fuse f-42 and the Wrangler still started. So I guess I could probably pull out fuse 42, reconnect the IBS sensor, and see if that fixes the auto start stop system without throwing any codes. Honestly the less lights lit up on the dash, the happier I am. Less things to blind me when I'm driving on pitch black roads.

I'll let you know guy.

Glad it worked after replacing your PCM's.

On the Gladiator forum lots of "fuse 42" threads. Some reported still getting the dash light, I want to think you sill get a light, but the reports are mixed. (*but NO codes).

I ended up paying for my option... just got the ESS/ASS eliminator. I bought the original from a forum member for around $80... I have seen copies on Amazon for $50.... but they work flawless and I don't have to mod anything else. I also like that it has memory, so it stays off, no lights or codes and if I ever want to turn it back on... I can. Makes things nice not to see the lights and to not have to continuously push the button every time.

I'm sure you have seen them, but this is what I purchased.
His name us Steve.
https://www.smartstopstart.com/

 

[richk225]

I remember there being another way of doing it and it involved a wire or two under the knee panel on the drivers side. Maybe it had to do with tricking the system into thinking that you were constantly towing. I know it`s here somewhere

 

[Heimkehr]

I remember there being another way of doing it and it involved a wire or two under the knee panel on the drivers side. Maybe it had to do with tricking the system into thinking that you were constantly towing. I know it`s here somewhere

That's be interesting to know: if in fact a portion of the ESS's electronics is intended to detect if the vehicle's driveline loading is such that towing is presumed; this data in turn being used to deactivate ESS functioning. ?

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