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When did you do your first oil change.....?

HuskerJL

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I share your sentiment about not running sand thru the engine. But if sand were to get thru the filter to the bearings, lifters and cylinder walls, the engine would be trashed in a handful of miles. Minutes, rather than months.
Well, sand must be in the oil if it shows up on an oil sample.
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CarbonSteel

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That’s a major issue. I wonder if the air filter has ever been replaced.
That is the initial oil change and the silicon is from sealers used during engine assembly. It will taper off as the oil is changed a few times.
 

roaniecowpony

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roaniecowpony

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I did our 2021 3.6 Etorque at about 4600 miles. That's what it had when we brought it home. I did a UOA o the factory fill and while loaded up with crap, the oil was still in good shape. I swapped it out for Walmart Supertech 0w20 thinking I'd do a very short run just to clean it out. But the oil's condition was good enough that I'll go ahead and run the Supertech for 5k and then move over to Mobil 1 EP 0w20 and a Fram Ultra filter. So it has its second change coming soon. My wife is piling the miles onto that thing!

Here is the UOA from the factory fill. I've no idea what the oil was. Probably a Pennzoil product, but who knows? But it was in good shape with the flashpoint showing no fuel dilution.

I have to say the factory Mopar oil filter did a good job, too, with only .2 ppm insolubles. That's better than I have typically seen with Mobil 1 filters, which is what is in this one right now. The next one should be interesting.

Screenshot_20220130-094756~2.png
Dan,
What actions/decisions has UOA helped you make?
 

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viper88

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I share your sentiment about not running sand thru the engine. But if sand were to get thru the filter to the bearings, lifters and cylinder walls, the engine would be trashed in a handful of miles. Minutes, rather than months.
I did not read everything on the thread. Years ago they used sand casting for some parts. Are you guys talking about that?
 

DanW

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Dan,
What actions/decisions has UOA helped you make?
The short answer is that I do it mainly for curiosity. But it can help with early detection of problems, too.

Really I've never had one that showed any concern. So it has been more for monitoring. So you look for things that are outliers, such as high fuel dilution, which in a non-direct injection engine can show up with a great deal of idling the engine. You can also get an idea if your air and oil filtration is good.

On our old Ford Transit 3.5 Ecoboost I used it to determine that the engine could go 10k per oil change on Mobil 1 EP 5w30 oil. I did a few and the oil looked good with little dilution and TBN looked good.

TBN, btw, can give you an idea if the oil can go longer. I've only done it once I think in my 2018 JL after an 8k mile run and it was in excellent shape, so I haven't paid to do it again because most of my oil change intervals are less than that.

You can also see if there is coolant or water present in the oil, which can indicate a head gasket leak. I've not encountered that before but have seen others spot a head gasket leak very early.

There's a lot of debate over the wear metal levels. I know for sure that some metals will spike (lead) if there is high bearing wear. There's much debate over iron levels and what they mean, but I do think generally less is better. But I have seen many UOA's from others who always had higher lead but had over 300k on the engines. For example, Mobil 1 oils used to consistently generate higher iron numbers but I never saw anyone who ran it religiously wear out an engine. Their engines always ran hundreds of thousands of miles and were exceptionally clean under the valve covers with little to no wear on the bearings. So again I'd look at particularly high numbers. That said, my most recent 5k OCI in the 2018 showed a significant drop in iron last time. I think I had more highway driving that round but I was running Shell Rotella Gas Truck 0w20. I've run it before with a higher iron number, so I don't think it is the oil but rather driving profile. But we'll see.

One last thing. It would be one helluva hard thing for a dealership or manufacturer to ever deny a warranty claim based on oil with a pile of healthy used oil analyses. My dealer is great and I'd be shocked if that ever happened. However, they DO know that I do this and have seen them. They wouldn't dare to try it. LOL! I've done one on all but one oil change in my 2018. The only one I did not do was a short 4k mile run on Shell Rotella Gas Truck 0w20.

When I get a chance, I'll post up the 2018's latest UOA. In fact, if I get bored, I'll post them all with notes as to which oil was run each time. I've mostly run Mobil 1 EP or AP. AP is now really EP, and that is my favorite oil due to its high PAO content and high performance at extreme temperatures. (Just because I feel good about it. Other top oil brands are just fine and generally, 0w20's are outstanding oils and probably the most tested and developed of all weights on the market right now.)
 
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Rodeoflyer

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All this talk about oil changes takes me back to my youth when I would change the oil in my father's business work trucks. He would let them go 20k miles on Texaco Havoline dino oil. He was a Texaco contractor building their gas stations so he would only use Texas gas and oil products.

The oil would drain out like sludge :). And they all made it to 100k (or close) before he would retire them. Crazy...
 

TheBirdie72

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2021 2-door Wrangler JL 4 cyl 2.0… 4100 miles… at “First CJDR” dealer in Attleboro, MA getting first Jeep Wave oil change and tire rotation right now…
??
I talked to the service guys at drop off and asked them how many quarts… they all said “five!!!” immediately and just shook their heads when I mentioned the “6 quart error.” They said they are on top of this one. — The dip stick after shall confirm! ??
Jeep Wrangler JL When did you do your first oil change.....? 32B38A39-CDCD-4FF5-9A66-F6AE3E6303EB
 

TheBirdie72

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2021 2-door Wrangler JL 4 cyl 2.0… 4100 miles… at “First CJDR” dealer in Attleboro, MA getting first Jeep Wave oil change and tire rotation right now…
??
I talked to the service guys at drop off and asked them how many quarts… they all said “five!!!” immediately and just shook their heads when I mentioned the “6 quart error.” They said they are on top of this one. — The dip stick after shall confirm! ??
32B38A39-CDCD-4FF5-9A66-F6AE3E6303EB.webp
Update - watching the work being done through the service window… actually just watched the mechanic work his way around the wheels with a torque wrench after rotation. That’s encouraging! ?
And we are done - 5 quarts! ?
 
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If one has sand, or silicon in ones engine, then the only place it can come from, is a leak in ones engine air intake Induction system., or somebody dumped some in with the oil So if one can see it in the Throttle plates, well then it is also in ones engine. As for the air filters used today, most have a very tight absolute micron rating. But nothing is 100%. So where one resides like me in dusty AZ, or how much off road one does plays a part in the needed oil change intervals. So understanding the correct oil change interval, applicable to ones location is very important. It is sad, because many don't understand this. Another item that pops up quiet frequently is, which is better, Dino, or synthetic oil. What is the best Brand of engine oil. And what viscosity should I use. I was very fortunet to spend a lot of time with the Chief Engineer Chemist from Shell oil Company. He was the one that wrote the Mil-specs for Shell oil Company. I traveled with him to the Copper and Coal mines, discussing oils for the Heavy Equipment and Haulage Truck engines. So the bottom line is, use a engine oil that meets the Mil-spect requirement, that the applicable factory, who build the engines recommends that one uses. Brand really doesn't matter that much, but viscosity and oil change interval does.
 

Matt878

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I have driven high-performance cars, like Mustangs and Porsches, for many years on street and track. My go-to oil is Mobil1 0W-40 with a premium quality filter. That is a $40 oil change done in your own garage or driveway using an oil that has the very highest ratings from the best automakers.

Full synthetic oil does not break down and can easily go for 7500 to 10,000 miles between changes. Much more often (or too often) seems a waste of time and money and environmentally imprudent.

And my full disclosure - I sell crude oil for a living. So my advice is contrary to my self-interests. Mobil1 is a great product.
Mobil1 is not great for turbocharged applications.

I also drive high performance cars such as a 660hp 7.0l Firebird WS6 and a 440whp Subaru wrx, any many others previously.

In turbo applications, Mobil 1 shears down to a lower viscosity extremely quickly. Numerous tests from Blackstone labs confirm.

If you want the best , buy Motul. No doubt about it. Pennzoil Platnium is perfectly fine for Jeeps since they aren’t seeing redline and WOT.
 

RickSavage

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Don't waste your money. They vehicles oil life system will tell you when it's time. But rotate your tires regularly. 5k. The oil can bee anywhere between 7 to 10 k no more than that though.
 

1BadManVan

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My 2021 JL Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon that I ordered at the end of 2020 arrived at my local dealership on 02-12-2021 and I took delivery of it on 03-01-2021. Because I only work 3 miles away from my house and I live in a very small town, as of this writing at the end of July, 2021 I only have approximately 1,650 miles on my Jeep so far. Once the engine gets broken in then I will put more miles on the Jeep by taking it out off roading in the mountains.

With all of my vehicles in the past, I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil in 5W-30 along with either an OEM oil filter or a Mobil 1 oil filter. I have also, always still changed my motor oil at every 3,000 miles even though many auto manufacturers say that you can now go 5,000 miles in between oil changes and you have synthetic motor oil saying that you can go anywhere from 10,000 miles in between oil changes, all the way to 25,000 miles in between oil changes just as long as you change the oil filter or oil cartridge with one of their brands every 10,000 to 15,000 miles.

I have also, always liked Amsoil and have also, always heard really good things about Royal Purple synthetic motor oils as well.

When I ordered my Jeep and ordered it specifically for off roading purposes, I also started doing a ton of synthetic lubricant research. After doing all of that research I have decided to run in my Jeep, the Signature Series Amsoil in 0W-20 and an Amsoil oil cartridge. I will still change the oil every 2,500 miles to 3,000 miles to keep continuous clean and fresh oil in the Jeep’s engine. I will also be running all Amsoil synthetic fluids in the front and rear differentials, transfer case and transmission. But I’ll probably wait until my Jeep has around 10,000 miles on it before putting those fluids in, to allow for all of those components to break in first. After that, I will change them out around every 25,000 miles or so that way those fluids also, always stay fresh and clean.
While I’m not here to knock Amsoil, through my own research as well, a lot of it on the bobs the oil guy forum which has many extremely knowledgeable people, the biggest take away from amsoil is it’s great at marketing. In fact, recent breakdowns of their oil shows (safety data sheets) they have also moved away from Group IV oils. Mobil 1 Ep is a very highly regarded oil on there, their Extended Performance oils in particular as their 0w20 oil is 70% PAO based which is practically unheard of now a days.

I think Amsoil is still a fantastic oil, UOA’s show a great additive package and I’m sure better than most off the shelf oils. But they are definitely not the only oil out there to use.
 

kah.mun.rah

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At the dealership every 5,000 miles to keep it on record for the warranty but at home at every 2,500 miles between dealership visits. Did this with my JK. It now has over 200,000 miles and is running strong.
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