*UPDATED: Crazy 3800 Watt Audio Upgrade - Write-Up

[Tr4ckD4ys]

***UPDATE***
Here goes my write-up with a couple notes upfront:

• The process to add an aftermarket amp(s) and speakers to MY24+ vehicles is largely the same as outlined in this thread by Sting_NC_USA
• I do recommend upgrading your battery.
• I fully removed my seats for the install, it simply made the install much easier and more spacious. Each sit is just 4 Torx screws and unlatch one harness plug. Super simple.

*The easiest, fastest and most convenient way to do this upgrade is still to go the PAC AMP Pro route.*
The model you need for MY24+ is this one here (Ch42), which is the route I took as well. Note that this is a DIFFERENT model than what is needed for Pre-MY24: https://pac-audio.com/products/ap4-ch42

*Buy good speaker wire and good ground/power wire (i.e. 4 GA) or simply use one of the good pre-packaged amp wiring kits for each amp*
The one I used is this one: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA4BX/EFX-PA4BX-Amp-Wiring-Kit.html?tp=2919

*Crutchfield tech support is amazing. They really help, no matter what, and are very knowledgeable. You can even call them for support even if you haven’t bought anything, though that’s not very nice to them.*

WHAT HAS CHANGED MY24+ & INSTALL NOTES

• Getting the factory radio out is actually super simple and doesn’t require taking the dash apart
• As mentioned before, the knee panel speakers are somewhat of a pain but there are good notes in the thread mentioned above on how to make it easier. In addition, the MY24+ models actually have LESS dash screws to be removed than prior.
• You don’t really have to fully take trim panels off to hide cables et cetera. Given Jeeps amazing build quality, the gaps between panels, carpets and dash are actually big enough to just shove the cables in or zip-tie them up by only unclipping a few clips
• Fitting the wiring harness of the PAC Amp Pro behind the factory radio unit is a bit of a pain. It’s also a bit of a pain to then push it through towards the hand compartment behind which you can store the PAC AMP device itself. Don’t give up though. When carefully done, it fits, even if tight.
• You only need the speaker connector and wire that comes with the PAC AMP Pro harness IF you plan to continue driving speakers with the factory headunit INSTEAD of the amplifier(s) you are adding. In my case, I started by continuing to drive the AudioUprising Dash Speakers with the factory headunit. I quickly realized though that this doesn’t make sense if everything else is amplified. The speakers you put in the dash simply won’t keep up with the volume levels and clarity. So best connect them to an amp and simply leave the speaker wiring plug of the PAC AMP Pro unplugged and unused.
• HOWEVER, *IF* you have the factory ALPINE amplified system, this is slightly different and you need to plug the speaker wire connection in. The PAC AMP Pro harness has a lot of good documentation with very good written stickers attached to every cable that really help you have no doubt about what to do.
• The pre-MY24 sound bars and enclosures you can buy for the roll-bar sound bar DO NOT FIT MY24+. Be careful what you order. Some shops (looking at you Quadratec) advertise stuff on their website as compatible with MY24+ WHEN IN ACTUALLY IT IS NOT.
• Your best bet is to reach out directly to the producer. In my case I went with DS18 for most of my equipment for three subjective reasons:
  1. I like German minimal/electronic music and they fit that camp in terms of their focus for speaker & amp qualities.
  2. I am not an audiophile that will be able to tell the difference between the system I have (maybe $3-$4k total investment) and a $10k+ Focal/Rockford/Whatever system.
  3. DS18 actually has a good price/value proposition when compared to the more expensive brands
• You don’t “really” need to screw down the amps or use amp mounting plates et cetera. Though these are nice and clean solutions, as you can see in my pictures, a little bit of high-strength velcro as well as some silicone spacers are a great and simple/cheaper solution as well. PLUS this allows you to easily remove amps and subwoofers if needed for space reasons when i.e. going for longer travel. This was especially important to me given I have a 2-door and needed easy-to-hide-and-remove compact equipment.
• The hardest part of this whole install was the PAC AMP Pro hookup, and wiring the RCAs over to the amplifiers. Everything else, including speaker install and speaker wiring is pretty easy. This YouTube short link explains in under two minutes how to very easily get the radio out on MY24 and beyond:
• For my main speakers (dash, knee, soundbar), I chose the amp locations to be under the passenger seat (see pictures). Ground point on passenger side below carpet roughly by the seat rail.
• For my subwoofers I chose the amp location in the trunk. Ground point on driver side behind plastic trim right behind the 12V outlet.
• Both locations can have the wires easily hidden under the carpet. In addition I also secured all under carpet wires with a bit of silver tape.
• I chose to wire up all speakers with new, higher quality speaker wire and simply route the wires along the existing factory wiring harness with zip ties. Therefore, I did not need any of the wiring charts and color-coding that are available. I felt this was almost easier than ripping into the harness and identifying colors, figuring out polarities and finding them again behind the headunit. This helped me a lot, as someone who had NEVER BEFORE done this type of work or car audio install, because it allowed me to skip some knowledge that would’ve required some reading up otherwise.
• The factory wiring harness endpoints for the soundbar I simply ziptied to itself, put some electric tape around it and hid it again behind the trims/aftermarket enclosures at is. You can simply leave them untouched if you pick my approach. HOWEVER, there are some plug & play enclosure solutions that integrate with the factory harness. But then you need the color coding charts and find that stuff behind the factory headunit again.

------ ORIGINAL POST-----
I’m questioning the sanity of my local, otherwise very reputable Car Audio Shop. I am asking the community to chime in if possible (maybe @Sting_NC_USA since your 7 year old thread was so very very helpful to me in this endeavor).

Last week, I did a DIY audio upgrade for my ‘25 2-door Rubicon. I went with DS18 (@DS18 Aaron ) equipment (almost) all around.

Here’s what I did:
- new soundbar with 4x 8” 400W speakers
- hinge gate mounted, dual 10” 600W shallow subwoofers
- 6.5” 150W knee panel speakers
- @AudioUprising dash speakers

All of this is connected together by a PAC AMP Pro Ch42, DS18 4 channel-in-8-out DSP, DS18 Digital Bass Processor and, ultimately, three amplifiers:
- DS18 Ion 1600W 4-channel compact amp to power the 4x 8” speakers
- DS18 Ion 1000W 4-channel compact amp to power the dash and knee panel speakers
- DS18 Ion 1200W Mono Compact Amp to power the subwoofers

I also upgraded my main battery to a X2 Power H7 AGM.

Everything is running normally and I am not experiencing any issues, driving or otherwise. Last Saturday I threw a party from 2PM to 11PM and had the car provide the music all night long (engine off but in RUN, albeit hooked up to a battery charger).

I keep asking my shop whether my alternator, battery and Big-3-Wires can support this setup (I’ve asked repeatedly). All they ever say is, with full confidence: “No problem whatsoever. Don’t even worry. The DS18 amps are super efficient.”

As per my calculations and research however, it appears that this setup requires conservatively almost 400Amps+ at peak when considering 65% amp efficiency (of course, the ION amps are quite more efficient). Our stock alternators are either 180 or 240 amp rated, which, per my calculation means I’m slowly draining the battery and killing the alternator. Assuming I’m going at lots of volume for an extended period of time.

What am I missing? Sounds to me like I need to try to find both a high output alternator replacement and a dual battery solution like genesis off-road.

PS: Pictures and installation notes coming soon.

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[THAW]

keep asking my shop whether my alternator, battery and Big-3-Wires can support this setup (I’ve asked repeatedly). All they ever say is, with full confidence: “No problem whatsoever. Don’t even worry. The DS18 amps are super efficient.”

As per my calculations and research however, it appears that this setup requires conservatively almost 400Amps+ at peak when considering 65% amp efficiency (of course, the ION amps are quite more efficient). Our stock alternators are either 180 or 240 amp rated, which, per my calculation means I’m slowly draining the battery and killing the alternator. Assuming I’m going at lots of volume for an extended period of time.

What am I missing? Sounds to me like I need to try to find both a high output alternator replacement and a dual battery solution like genesis off-road.

Peak power is rarely (or never) achieved, right? What really matters is your average power consumption, which is very different. Like for a winch, car audio wiring doesn't have to be sized to handle peak power continuously because device max current draw is inherently intermittent and short-duration. With regard to the alternator, the battery buffers the current draw (and batteries are capable of high 100s CCA).

One option to find out if your alternator/external charging is keeping up with the current draw of the audio system is to use JScan to view real-time IBS Current (and track IBS SOC).

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Haven't looked up the stats on your amps, but best guess is the amperage ratings are based on values at peak/max output, and at normal output the amperage needs are manageable. I'm not a mechanic, but understand the alternator is simply charging the batteries, and the batteries can handle quite a bit of load directly. That said, pushing the system consistently at max output would likely deteriorate your battery life faster over time, causing your alternator to be overworked.

Those with very heavy amp loads typically install a large capacitor, or at least they used to when amps weren't as efficient as they are today. Those things can be terrifying, so I hope they are correct, and your amp ratings are truly more efficient.

 

[Opus]

I hope you're able to work it out, OP. That said, neighbors like you are why I want to move to a ranch in Montana...

Seriously, though, when you get it all sorted out, post pics and audio of what it sounds like. I'm genuinely curious what that big a system sounds like in a 2-door.

 

[lashlee]

Like others have noted, actual current demand is far from any theoretical calculations that you attempt to make. I run three amps in my car (not a Jeep) but have a current transformer in use with one of the amps, that rarely gets over 60 amps in very brief situations. My current meter will not indicate any current draw lower than 3 amps and most of the time regular music at a normal volume level it shows 0. I would look into buying/borrowing a clamp meter (the more reputable version the better) to verify your actual current draw. Also, sine waves will show a more consistent value, but never what you actually listen to.

 

[Flip]

I wish I was at your party!

 

[Tr4ckD4ys]

I hope you're able to work it out, OP. That said, neighbors like you are why I want to move to a ranch in Montana...

Seriously, though, when you get it all sorted out, post pics and audio of what it sounds like. I'm genuinely curious what that big a system sounds like in a 2-door.

OK first of all, I invite my neighbors to events like these. Surprising enough to me, they actually showed up this time around. And they even went down the kiddie waterslide I had rented for the day.

Jawohl to the rest!

 

[Camaroboi13]

I’m still trying to figure out why the need for a thousand watt amp to power 370 watts worth of speakers in the dash. ‍

 

[Tr4ckD4ys]

I’m still trying to figure out why the need for a thousand watt amp to power 370 watts worth of speakers in the dash. ‍

Well… you tell me. DS18 recommended the 1000W amp. That’s actually their smallest or least powered one they have in compact format. And it’s got a good price too.

 

[embedded rock]

Been a lot of years since my car and home audio hobby days. I liked hearing clean, crisp highs, the vocals, and punchy bass.

Just had a look at what DS18 offers for the JL, and it's impressive.

https://ds18.com/collections/jeep-jl

As others have mentioned, pictures. I'd like to see what you're doing.

 

[Tr4ckD4ys]

Tonight I will update this post with pictures and install notes. I can upload a video but I don’t think it would do the system justice. But at least you’ll see it. I will also cross-reference the thread by @Sting_NC_USA as there were a few differences between pre-MY24 and MY24+

 

[Mguy]

Everything is running normally and I am not experiencing any issues, driving or otherwise. Last Saturday I threw a party from 2PM to 11PM and had the car provide the music all night long (engine off but in RUN, albeit hooked up to a battery charger).

Congrats on your new Jeep and sound system, but sorry about your paranoia. Since everything is working, seems like power, cabling, and hardware is all systematically compatible.

A few thoughts to help with lingering mental issues,

Possible problems would likely be tied to excessive heat and/or unacceptable transients.

Use a laser thermometer on components before and after turning up volume with a source that has crazy bass.

Consider a Group 27 battery, I believe it will fit. More options than H7, including greater deep cycling capability.

Check ability of charger to handle continuous power supply duties, many can't, and specs intended more for marketing are not always helpful.

Your alternator is not likely to be a problem, unless it's too hot. The Jeep's voltage regulation is another story.

 

[Gaiden414]

Looking forward to the pics, the DS18 stuff is pretty flashy, not exactly my bag but I can appreciate some crazy setups.

Some additional feedback and quick maths -

Here’s what I did:
- new soundbar with 4x 8” 400W speakers (175W RMS speakers)
- hinge gate mounted, dual 10” 600W shallow subwoofers
- 6.5” 150W knee panel speakers
- @AudioUprising dash speakers (35W at 8ohms)

All of this is connected together by a PAC AMP Pro Ch42, DS18 4 channel-in-8-out DSP, DS18 Digital Bass Processor and, ultimately, three amplifiers:
- DS18 Ion 1600W 4-channel compact amp to power the 4x 8” speakers (240W x4 at 4ohm) 960W, power matched to speakers would be around 700W
- DS18 Ion 1000W 4-channel compact amp to power the dash and knee panel speakers (150W x4 at 4ohm) 600W, likely more around 450W max RMS with dash speakers at higher impedance load. Be mindful of dash speaker output with higher than suggested power)
- DS18 Ion 1200W Mono Compact Amp to power the subwoofers (If subs are IXS10.4D then yes max is 1200W at 1ohm)

700+450+1200 = 2350W
2350W @ 14.4V = 163.19 Amps
2350W @ 12.2V = 192.62 Amps

You are still looking at less than 200Amps at the absolute max of what you could/should run this setup (just speakers/RMS wattage supplied, obviously other vehicle systems are running and will have power/amp draw). And as others have stated, since music is dynamic/transient even if you do hit close to 200Amps, it would be for at most a second or less in the vast majority of situations.

Also final thing/PSA; hopefully you, and everyone, are using OFC cables and not CCA. The cost savings just isn't there.

Peace!

 

[Ratbert]

Our stock alternators are either 180 or 240 amp rated, which, per my calculation means I’m slowly draining the battery and killing the alternator.

You're not running the engine, right? The alternator isn't in play unless the engine is running.

 

[Tr4ckD4ys]

You're not running the engine, right? The alternator isn't in play unless the engine is running.

Correct. However, the alternator does also charge the battery while the engine is running. If there’s nothing left to charge because the other users consume it all, then the battery will slowly die. That could happen ie during a long slow drive listening at full volume, Offroad lights on, winch in use etc etc etc

However, as luckily some way more knowledgeable than me members have pointed out above, they agree with my shops opinion that I don’t need to be paranoid about this. Only slightly anxious. At most.

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