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TrailRecon- Engine Failure

DanW

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Good video that explains how oil weight, with both numbers in the viscosity rating, effects the engine.

In other words, if you bump to a 30 weight, such as 0w30 or 5w30, better get a UOA before and after. You might do more harm than good.....And harm is relative...If it does cause harm to go to a 5w30, most people would never keep the engine long enough to know, and even those who do might not know....in other words, instead of lasting 350,000 miles, it might last 320,000. In other words, anyone who has an engine wear out at 320,000 miles should be pretty happy it went that far.

I´m sticking with Mobil 1 EP 0w20. If I ever did change, I´d probably go with Mobil 1 ESP 0w30. And then I would definitely do a UOA to see if it caused a change in wear metals. My guess is that it would show about the same.

Btw, when doing research, look at multiple sources. My favs are this guy (Engineering Explained) and The Motor Oil Geek. They are more scientific. Project Farm and some others are a joke, IMO.

But I did many UOA´s on my 2018 JL´s 3.6, and they have all done very well on 0w20, with the exception of the first one, which had all the leftover manufacturing crap in it.
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Spunky

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Sounds like a great plan…only comment I will add about going to a thicker oil…I changed out to the 5W-20 and right away I could tell the engine DID NOT LIKE IT and drained it and put 0W-20 right back in and the engine was happy again…just my scenario.
Just curious…how could you tell your engine did not like 5W20? What were the symptoms? Drop in fuel economy? Engine vibration? Engine noise?
 

Ratbert

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Sounds like another poll question for you. In theory it won't get you banned, but I would bet that there's a lot of people here with very strong opinions about the implications.
 

Odyssey USA

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If you are going to change your oil yourself a magnetic drain plug is a good indicator that there is a problem.
Be it cam cast iron or needle bearing failing. So fare mine has been clean. :whew:

oil drain plug.webp
The dealer tech actually used my Votex magnetic drain plug as evidence of what was going on. I’m hoping…this kept some debris out of my oil pump. And after the fix, I’m not beyond buying some big neodymium magnets to put on the outside of the small steel lower pan. lol I’m thinking there may be some shavings floating around in there for a couple of oil changes.
 

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Jeep Junkie

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I guess I should count myself (for now) lucky as I got my 2019 JLUR 3.6L with 22,000 miles on it and now have 125,000 miles on it and actually plan to finally get off my butt and change the spark plugs tomorrow. I had made a short video asking to get feedback if I have a tick or not from my engine:

Mine sounds like that too.
 

DanW

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They all make some noise under certain conditions. They have a very complex and sometimes noisy valve train.

If you get the bad tick, there won´t be any mistaking it. If you are not sure, then you probably don´t have anything to worry about.

And different oils won´t necessarily help. I have a buddy that puts a quart of super heavy Lucas Oil Stabilizer (which is snake oil garbage) into his 2012 Pentastar along with 5 quarts of 5w30, effectively making it something like a 40 or 50 weight and his makes as much racket as I´ve ever heard on one running 0w20.

I had a guy ask me once if my JL was a diesel. It was cold and idling at the trailhead for Hells Revenge. I stepped out and was surprised at how much noise it was making. I don´t think I had even 20,000 miles on it yet. Maybe only 10k to 15k. And here she is at 103k and runs perfectly and mostly quietly. But again, sometimes it makes that racket. Weird. But normal.

Mine sounds like that too.
 

jadmt

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I don’t know why he has so much trouble with his jeeps. I bought my 3.6 Rubie less than 3 years ago. 60,000 miles, many trails including 12 badge trails including rubicon, John Bull, etc. no problems.
because it is good for viewership and more views more money...follow the money...
 

azjl#3

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Sounds like a great plan…only comment I will add about going to a thicker oil…I changed out to the 5W-20 and right away I could tell the engine DID NOT LIKE IT and drained it and put 0W-20 right back in and the engine was happy again…just my scenario.
Define, did not like it please
 

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azjl#3

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I'll say it again, viscosity is not killing these engines.

Can we agree a 0-w20 oil can be replaced safely with a 0w30? Won't it work better at higher temps? So, wouldn't a 0w40 be even better at higher temps?

Look, supposedly we have multi viscosity to be various viscosities at different temperatures. Covering a wider spectrum of temperatures only makes logical sense to me. If the engine never gets hot enough to need 40 weight, it won't be 40 weight.

I am still waiting for the poster who said his 3.6 did not like thicker oil to explain. I know we have had numerous folks use thicker and say nothing changes.

I'm not saying go to a 0w60 racing oil like an M3 uses, but the Maserati 3.6 uses 0w40, and I have not read anything saying their valvetrain is different.

Stellantis uses 0w20 to pass epa startup emissions and mpg testing, they are not trying to get you past 100,000 miles of use.
 

SurfMacJpMtb

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I wonder about the stress on the engine from the weight of the trailer (loaded) that he pulled and other gear, along with the large tires, and how long before he re-geared.

Epic Family u-tubers eventually had a similar issue with their JLUR v6 after many more miles. They haul a lot of weight and pulled a small trailer for many years, and then extended their jeep body.

The good news is the automatic transmission seems to be holding up.
 

Ratbert

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Yeah and he probably did not change his oil on purpose 👎
Yep, even though he clearly stated otherwise. Sticking our heads in the sand doesn't make this or other fundamental issues go away. This one, like many others, is well known.
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