Track Bars Stress Me Out!

[word302]

Yes I agree that the roll center would get closer to it's OEM height, but the suspension's geometry is not solely dictated by the track bar mounting height. The control arms are still in their OEM mounts, and the entire track bar is now 2.5" higher. How do you not consider this as being 'altered'? What if we were to raise the track bar 24" resulting in no flex due to bind? Still not considered altered?

When you change any mounting point's location you are altering the suspension geometry (unless of course you change all of the mounting points).

Well with that line of thinking any lift is changing the suspension geometry because the control arm angle changes. You're splitting hairs here.

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[AnnDee4444]

Well with that line of thinking any lift is changing the suspension geometry because the control arm angle changes.

I don't follow your logic. Ride height changes do cause the suspension to be in a different part of their motion range, but the geometry remains the same until the mounting points are moved. Installing a winch causes the front to sag, yet the geometry remains the same. Going over a large bump moves the suspension, but the geometry is still the same. The Rubicon has the same suspension geometry as a Sport, even if it's ride height is different. Take the springs out completely, and the axle will always move up-down & left-right in a consistent ark. Altering one of the mounting points changes how the axle moves, because it's literally determined by the geometry.

You're splitting hairs here.

You're making me defend my position, remember? "To say that the rear track bar bracket alters suspension geometry isn't quite right" is exactly wrong.

 

[word302]

I don't follow your logic. Ride height changes do cause the suspension to be in a different part of their motion range, but the geometry remains the same until the mounting points are moved. Installing a winch causes the front to sag, yet the geometry remains the same. Going over a large bump moves the suspension, but the geometry is still the same. The Rubicon has the same suspension geometry as a Sport, even if it's ride height is different. Take the springs out completely, and the axle will always move up-down & left-right in a consistent ark. Altering one of the mounting points changes how the axle moves, because it's literally determined by the geometry.

You're making me defend my position, remember? "To say that the rear track bar bracket alters suspension geometry isn't quite right" is exactly wrong.

You're contradicting yourself. Geometry is all about angles. If you are moving the track bar mount up when you lift, you are essentially keeping the triangle that the track bar and axle make as close to stock as possible. While a complete suspension system obviously works together, different components have different jobs. Changing the track bar mount height does not change how the control arms do their job. The relationship of the angle between the track bar and the axle is far more important than where it mounts in relation to the control arms.

 

[NPE102414]

I've searched everything possible. Track bars stress me out. So many different brands. Everyone is slightly different. I didn't think this would be a big deal. Considering the following:

- Metalcloak. Good product with great customer service. Front requires grinding the axle side opening.
- Rock Krawler. They recommend a rear relocation bracket. Mixed reviews on if necessary. Also not a lot of info on their bushing.
- Synergy. Seems like good product. More money. I don't believe their front track bar is released yet.
- Steer Smarts. No rear bar. Front is easily adjusted but expensive. Works flawlessly with their tie rod and drag link.
- Teraflex. ok. haven't read anything amazing. Their rear relocation bracket looks weak.

What else? any input? Does it matter? Just trying to recenter the axles on my Mopar lift. Down the road will replace steering components to reduce wander.

Teraflex makes a great front track bar, I have one and it’s awesome. Best part is it’s adjustable on the Jeep, does not need to be removed to be adjusted.

 

[NPE102414]

I've searched everything possible. Track bars stress me out. So many different brands. Everyone is slightly different. I didn't think this would be a big deal. Considering the following:

- Metalcloak. Good product with great customer service. Front requires grinding the axle side opening.
- Rock Krawler. They recommend a rear relocation bracket. Mixed reviews on if necessary. Also not a lot of info on their bushing.
- Synergy. Seems like good product. More money. I don't believe their front track bar is released yet.
- Steer Smarts. No rear bar. Front is easily adjusted but expensive. Works flawlessly with their tie rod and drag link.
- Teraflex. ok. haven't read anything amazing. Their rear relocation bracket looks weak.

What else? any input? Does it matter? Just trying to recenter the axles on my Mopar lift. Down the road will replace steering components to reduce wander.

How much are they off? I installed my Mopar yesterday and was 1/2” off up front and less then 1/4 in back. At these measurements it wasn’t even worth my time to adjust because it drives and starts amazing. The lift combined with a dealer flash actually tightened up my steering and all but eliminated and wandering I was having. Maybe it’s a placebo affect but it drives perfect to me.

 

[AnnDee4444]

You're contradicting yourself. Geometry is all about angles. If you are moving the track bar mount up when you lift, you are essentially keeping the triangle that the track bar and axle make as close to stock as possible. While a complete suspension system obviously works together, different components have different jobs. Changing the track bar mount height does not change how the control arms do their job. The relationship of the angle between the track bar and the axle is far more important than where it mounts in relation to the control arms.

Is it the term "suspension geometry" that you have an issue with?

 

[Pig-Pen]

I chose the Yeti Steer Smarts front track bar because I also plan on using their tie rod and drag link. Sticking with the same manufacturer assures that they will play well with each other while in such close proximity.

Due to Yeti not having a rear available and I was already going with Synergy for control arms, I decided on a Synergy rear track bar.

Not only wanting high quality, but I specifically wanted to avoid jam nuts. I prefer the pinch clamp design and being able to adjust all mentioned linkages while fully installed, is an added plus.

i too am getting confused by all the options. i was thinking of getting metal cloak but there is grinding involved?

which track bars can be adjusted while ON the vehicle? i know Yeti is one. any others?

 

[word302]

Is it the term "suspension geometry" that you have an issue with?

I give up

 

[Halstem1]

Front and rear from us too!
Drop in..
No grinding.
Beefy
D2 bushing (dual durometer) Improves ride quality
Front
http://www.gorancho.com/products/ac...ho-hd-front-adjustable-track-bar-rs62128.html

Rear
http://www.gorancho.com/products/ac...cho-hd-rear-adjustable-track-bar-rs62131.html

Good luck!

I meant to include you guys. Sorry! As soon as I posted I realized I forgot you. Was gonna note you’re one of the most affordable options for front and rear.

 

[Halstem1]

I disagree. The geometry of the suspension is determined by more than just the track bar height. Changing the track bar's mounting point in relation to the control arms changes the suspension geometry.

I just put in the Teraflex Alpine IR trackbar and it is an awesome piece of metal. Well made, well coated, excellent directions, easy to adjust, and HEAVY.

What did you do in the rear? They have a rear relocation bracket but honestly it looks like a weak point based on how it attaches.

 

[Halstem1]

I do like the "turnbuckle" concept of the Teraflex making adjustments stupid easy

The grinding required for the MC is easy, and I actually appreciate that they chose beef over customer drop-in convenience.

But the bigger issue is this: OP, with the way the Jeep aftermarket is, ya gotta take a Valium. You're gonna kill yourself. Write the top 10 names on the wall, blindfold yourself and throw a dart. You can't hardly go wrong with any of the popular contenders.

haha. Good point.

 

[Halstem1]

Yes I agree that the roll center would get closer to it's OEM height, but the suspension's geometry is not solely dictated by the track bar mounting height. The control arms are still in their OEM mounts, and the entire track bar is now 2.5" higher. How do you not consider this as being 'altered'? What if we were to raise the track bar 24" resulting in no flex due to bind? Still not considered altered?

When you change any mounting point's location you are altering the suspension geometry (unless of course you change all of the mounting points).

Not being a suspension guru... I’d say the relation to the front track bar is more of what is altered. Right? The rear is closer to “flat” at road height. But the front would not be. Isn’t that a thing?

 

[Halstem1]

How much are they off? I installed my Mopar yesterday and was 1/2” off up front and less then 1/4 in back. At these measurements it wasn’t even worth my time to adjust because it drives and starts amazing. The lift combined with a dealer flash actually tightened up my steering and all but eliminated and wandering I was having. Maybe it’s a placebo affect but it drives perfect to me.

mine is off about 3/4 inch in the front and the rear. It drives strait. But at high speeds the wander is getting worse with miles. I was telling someone else that I think temps could affect it. I drove 1000 miles to Colorado and about 5 hours in the wander was getting worse. The next morning back to normal. Same coming home. I don’t know. Other thing was I get a little bump steer in town. Track bars were an easy 350-500$ item to start with. In all reality the kit should probably come with them.

 

[NPE102414]

mine is off about 3/4 inch in the front and the rear. It drives strait. But at high speeds the wander is getting worse with miles. I was telling someone else that I think temps could affect it. I drove 1000 miles to Colorado and about 5 hours in the wander was getting worse. The next morning back to normal. Same coming home. I don’t know. Other thing was I get a little bump steer in town. Track bars were an easy 350-500$ item to start with. In all reality the kit should probably come with them.

Your right it should come with front and rear adjustable track bars. Come to think of it mine would have been off even more because they were still adjusted from the 2” spacer lift I removed for the Mopar lift. The front was originally off a little over 1/2” so had I started from scratch it would have been off almost an 1” like yours. Start with the front and grab the rear later on, less important IMO. The Teraflex is a great bar, can’t go wrong with it, with any of them for that matter. I just like the ability to adjust it while it’s on the Jeep, and the fit and finish of Teraflex products are pretty awesome. They sell on Amazon with prime shipping so you could literally have it on Monday morning. Split the difference your off and adjust that over stock length and you’ll be good to go, straight again. Other than the axel being a little off center I couldn’t be happier with the performance of the Mopar lift. I absolutely hated the spacer lift with the stock suspension. Also, What are you running for tires and tire pressure? Here’s a couple pics of the difference in weight between the Teraflex and the stock front track bar.

 

[Halstem1]

Your right it should come with front and rear adjustable track bars. Come to think of it mine would have been off even more because they were still adjusted from the 2” spacer lift I removed for the Mopar lift. The front was originally off a little over 1/2” so had I started from scratch it would have been off almost an 1” like yours. Start with the front and grab the rear later on, less important IMO. The Teraflex is a great bar, can’t go wrong with it, with any of them for that matter. I just like the ability to adjust it while it’s on the car, and the fit and finish of Teraflex products are pretty awesome. They sell on Amazon with prime shipping so you could literally have it on Monday morning. Split the difference your off and adjust that over stock length and you’ll be good to go, straight again. Other than the actual being a little off center I couldn’t be happier with the performance of the Mopar lift. I absolutely hated the spacer lift with the stock suspension. Also, What are you running for tires and tire pressure? Here’s a couple pics of the difference in weight between the Teraflex and the stock front track bar.

thanks! For tires, 37” BFG KO2’s. Tire pressure currently is around 32. I’ve ran up to 37 and as low as 26. The higher tire pressure made it a little more squirrelly. And the lower tire pressure was really sluggish. Goal is to replace the track bars. Then I’ll to the tie rod and steering stabilizer together and move the SS up out of the way. Last the drag link. Also, metalcloak advises some people have had luck changing out the front UPPER control arms for adjustable ones.

And in all honesty, none of this is a big deal. Some people act like the wander is dangerous and uncontrollable. It’s a little fatiguing on long trips. But otherwise it’s what I would expect on solid axles and 37” tires.

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