synergy vs steersmarts

[vavaroutsos]

I want to be able to use the stock steering stabilizer mounting location.That pretty much limits choices as have been reading the steer smarts for some reason will not allow you to use OEM mounting. That seems like a poor design to me.

Not really. The stock steering stabilizer is mounted poorly in my opinion. It hangs really low where trail damage is likely. It also clamps to the axle in the middle instead of the end. This makes for a funky tie rod mount instead of a simple clamp that you can get for any tie rod diameter.

Sponsored

 

[PIG]

It is for higher lifts. Somewhere around 3"-3.5" you can use a top mount drag link and track bar re-location bracket. It gets the drag link and track bar more parallel to the ground again for better suspension geometry.

To get a little more technical... When you lift a vehicle you increase the height of vehicles center of gravity (COG). When this happens the distance between the the suspension roll center height and the COG increases therefore causing more body roll when cornering. This results in decreased driving/handling/performance characteristics. To combat this you can increase the height of the vehicles suspension roll center by increasing the height of the trackbar connection point on the axle housing. When you do this you need to correct the steering geometry to minimize bumpsteer. In the instance of the JL flipping the drag link moves the connection point of the drag up approximately 3 inches. Therefore, the trackbar needs to go up the same amount so that the trackbar and drag link are at the same angle and plane. This needs to be done to eliminate any unwanted bumpsteer as the front suspension cycles.

Also, generally speaking heights of the suspension roll center should be close front to back to try and equalize the amount the front and rear suspension are working. This means that if you are running a front trackbar relocation bracket and drag link flip kit its probably a good idea to make sure a rear trackbar relocation bracket as well so that the front and rear suspension roll center heights are staying close.

 

[Cali-JeepJL]

I have the draglink with griffin, trackbar, tie rod, stabilizer, and sway bar end links all of the are steersmarts will be installing this friday can’t wait to test it out, will do a feedback once installed and tested

By the way i have a 2 inch lift dynatrac endurosport with 33inch tire 18inch wheels

Do you have the top or bottom mount?

 

[Cali-JeepJL]

Another question; after installing all these parts do I need to get an alignment?

 

[rustyshakelford]

Another question; after installing all these parts do I need to get an alignment?

Alignment is only needed after a tie rod change to ensure the toe is correct. Track bar can be done with a tape measure. Drag link is used to level and center the steering wheel

Brett

 

[PIG]

Alignment is only needed after a tie rod change to ensure the toe is correct. Track bar can be done with a tape measure. Drag link is used to level and center the steering wheel

Brett

Both can be done with a tape measure really...

 

[rustyshakelford]

Both can be done with a tape measure really...

Very true! Steer smart recommends .5° positive toe. I haven’t studied up enough to see what that comes out to with a tape. What do y’all recommend?

Brett

 

[PIG]

Very true! Steer smart recommends .5° positive toe. I haven’t studied up enough to see what that comes out to with a tape. What do y’all recommend?

Brett

.5 degrees of positive toe? You mean castor?
1/8" toe in usually does the trick for the toe adjustment.
JL's seem to work really well with about 5 to 6 degrees of positive front end castor.

 

[RubiRob]

.5 degrees of positive toe? You mean castor?
1/8" toe in usually does the trick for the toe adjustment.
JL's seem to work really well with about 5 to 6 degrees of positive front end castor.

Steersmarts has said they recommend toe out which is certainly outside of the norm. Many people are reporting that they're happy with it that way.

 

[PIG]

Steersmarts has said they recommend toe out which is certainly outside of the norm. Many people are reporting that they're happy with it that way.

Thats wrong man, why would you ever have it toed out?

 

[RubiRob]

Thats wrong man, why would you ever have it toed out?

Just saying what he told me ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[rustyshakelford]

.5 degrees of positive toe? You mean castor?
1/8" toe in usually does the trick for the toe adjustment.
JL's seem to work really well with about 5 to 6 degrees of positive front end castor.

.5° positive toe is what Travis recommends when installing the steersmart tie rod! I agree it’s agaisnt the norm but that’s what we’ve been following .4-.5° and so far nothing but great feedback. Tire wear is great and drives perfect

Brett

 

[Solidaxle]

I would recommend against any “toe out” set up. The basic idea behind setting it “toe in” when you start driving the force of the wheels are pushed out netting you zero or near perfect straight when driving. Toe in generally feels a bit more stable. To much Toe in causes outside tire wear, toe out wears the inside.

 

[AllJumpStyle]

I would recommend against any “toe out” set up. The basic idea behind setting it “toe in” when you start driving the force of the wheels are pushed out netting you zero or near perfect straight when driving. Toe in generally feels a bit more stable. To much Toe in causes outside tire wear, toe out wears the inside.

Agreed. The goal is generally net zero toe. 1/8" - 1/16" toe-in will typically net around zero toe when moving, depending on tire size. Toe-out has really only ever been recommended as a stop-gap for decreasing the likelihood of death wobble if something is loose, worn out, or just wrong and you have to drive it before it can get fixed.

 

[word302]

I want to be able to use the stock steering stabilizer mounting location.That pretty much limits choices as have been reading the steer smarts for some reason will not allow you to use OEM mounting. That seems like a poor design to me.

Why do you need beefier steering but don't want to relocate the stabilizer? If you're doing things that would require upgraded steering components you're going to destroy that stabilizer in the stock location.

Sponsored