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FYI, for all who are considering mounting a radio here, the factory module that goes in this location appears to be the power inverter. So if you have a 110 VAC outlet, then you will already have a module in this location, which is unfortunate, because I think it's a good location for a radio.

Most Teraflex shocks I have seen have a digressive damping curve. This is better for on road manners than off road in my opinion and explains why people say they are stiff. Accutune has a good article on damping curves if you want to learn more.

This is pretty standard. It's kind of like re-generative braking in an electric. Alternator load is reduced when you're cruising to increase mpg, when you let off the throttle, or apply the brakes, alternator load is increased to capture some of that energy as charge in the battery. Vehicles...

I have a Motobilt Crusher front bumper and my Zeon 10-S just touches the grille. I put some thick protective film on the grill in attempt to minimize any damage.

Don't forget that you can run less offset with larger diameter tires and still maintain the same scrub radius due to camber. I feel scrub radius is the important metric, not offset/backspace. You need to consider offset/backspace in conjunction with tire diameter, then make compromises for...

What size tire are you planning to run? You can go with less offset with larger tires and still maintain the same scrub radius due to camber angle. You will also need less offset with larger/wider tires to keep them from rubbing at full lock/stuff.

A -12 mm offset pushes your wheels pretty far outward. This increases the scrub radius which is hard on your ball joints/steering. That being said, I don't know about "wrong", you can't go from a 7.5" wheel to a 9" wheel and larger tires without decreasing offset or they will rub at full lock/stuff.

I don't think this is the issue since he said the Jeep used to drive fine. That being said it doesn't take long to put an Wixey angle gauge on the Cs and check them. I think there's a flat spot on the bottom if I remember correctly.

At this point if you feel you have checked everything and can't find a problem I would suggest the following: 1) Find an isolated portion of road where you can reliably create the death wobble. 2) Mount a go pro to the bottom of the front bumper and start getting some footage of before/after...

You may not see movement on the bolt locations, but the factory bolts are substantially smaller than most of the bushing sleeve bores. Most of the bushing sleeves are SAE and the bolts are fully threaded metric. This allows the control arm bushing to move around even if the bolt doesn't move...

Yeah, looks like chips from lathe turning. Maybe from boring the bearing race seats.

Have you replaced all of the factory control arm and track bar bolts with proper sized SAE shouldered bolts? The factory bolts are fully threaded metric and do not fit the SAE bushings very well. In addition, some of the control arm holes are elongated for use with caster adjusting cam washers...

Fox 2.5s are an expensive investment. If you decide you want a lift later, the shocks you buy now won't be long enough/have enough travel to take full advantage of the lift. So make sure this is really something you want to do.

Been there, gone through this. Replacement cables aren't available. Bestop will tell you to call Mopar because it's an OEM part and they don't stock replacement parts for it. Either have to get the whole top replaced (the fabric part), wait for aftermarket replacement cables, or get some cable...

I don't think this is going to work without changing some coding in the PCM (which you will have to do anyway for VIN). You will need something like HP Tuners, or you will have to send the PCM off to get cloned to your original.

The CO2 is liquid in the tank and at about 850 psi. It turns to gas at the top of the tank with an expansion rate of over 500:1. So this idea is not going to work.

I went with 4.88 because I plan on staying on 35s. I like to be over built and if I go 37s I'm going to want to change axles, brakes, etc. If I were planning on 37s, I would go 5.13 for sure.

Even with 35s it's not very good. I drove mine for a couple of months to decide if I wanted to re-gear. My suggestion is re-gear to 4.88 for 35s or 5.13 with 37s.

Save your money on the ceramic beads. Buy some air soft BB if you want to go this route. Note that this type of balance will only correct radial imbalance, it won't help lateral imbalance. That being said, I use BBs in my mud terrain as loosing bits of lugs throws off a weight type balance.

The sway bar won't always disconnect when stopped. If the axle is not level to the Jeep, there is some torque on the sway bar coupler and it won't disconnect. It's better to be moving a bit so the axle can move through a level position and allow the sway bar to disconnect.