Skid plate question

[3D duck]

I was wondering what everybody’s thought is on skid plates. I’ve had a jeep for a while, but just now getting into off Roading it and I’m working on My build. Trying to decide if my next edition should be skid plates. Is it something that y’all think I should be getting or are skid plates mainly for more extreme Off Roading? If I’m only going to be doing light to medium off-roading should I just get a few select pieces of protection or should I get one that protects the engine + trans? If you think I should get them, where is a good place to buy them for a two door jeep. Most places I have look sell them for 4-door only. Any advice or input is much appreciated. Thanks!

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[smokeythecat]

What else have you done? I am still new to offroading (2021 Willys Sport) and my first addtions were sway bar disconnects and on-board air. It seemed to me that being able to easily disconnect the sway bar and air down for the trail were the two things to give you immediate improvements.

Next came bumpers and a winch. The bumpers up your recovery point game. I have never actually used the winch to get unstuck, but as I go out solo a lot it is peace of mind to have it available.

My Willys came with what are for me halfway decent skid plates. Except for the oil pan/transmission. Even though I was not regularly scraping the bottom I always felt vulnerable, so I got a MORE skid plate for the oil pan and transmission for peace of mind.

Additionally, before putting a skid plate on that covers the oil pan you might want to install a Fumimoto valve on your oil pan.

 

[dragoneggs]

Have you scraped your underside yet? If not, wait. I went with Artec aluminum skids (not cheap) for my 2dr. Weight is important to me as I tow behind a small RV.

 

[dragoneggs]

Additionally, before putting a skid plate on that covers the oil pan you might want to install a Fumimoto valve on your oil pan.

I assume you are talking about the Fumoto valve? A better option IMO, is the Valvomax drain valve. I have both installed on various vehicles. If your drain plug is protected by a skid plate, either is good. If exposed, I don’t think the Fumoto valve is the way to go.

 

[bd100]

Quadratec has aluminum skids which are easy to add and remove for service, don't weigh a ton, and come with extra bracing. Protects against stones and branches hitting the engine and trans lines.

Control arm / shock mount skids are useful and don't add much weight. These points stick down pretty far. Paint before install, even if they come powder coated.

If worried about the diffs, you could look for differential guards which bolt right over the existing diff covers. I use "Purple cranium" spider style guards over the stock covers, because I tow and the stock cover is probably cooler than the thick cast iron ones.

Rock rails under the doors can be good, but they'll add some weight. I have Mopar's wide style which serve as a thin step, and also protect the sides and hinges from stones slung from the front tires. You could also get mud flaps and some kind of hinge covers.

Hitch skid plate / slider. This is more important for my JT than your short 2-door. 41.22 aluminum for light weight, or any of the steel versions for better coverage, but they might drag more in mud. I have steel but may switch to the 41.22 to save 20lb hanging way out the back. Was near max weight on our last big trip.

 

[3D duck]

What else have you done? I am still new to offroading (2021 Willys Sport) and my first addtions were sway bar disconnects and on-board air. It seemed to me that being able to easily disconnect the sway bar and air down for the trail were the two things to give you immediate improvements.
.

Right now just new bumpers and winch. The quadratic option does seem pretty good. Thanks for the help.

 

[ZigZag]

I got the full aluminum skids from Mountain Off-Road Enterprises (MORE). Very stout. But since they are aluminum the still get dented and scratched. Took a lot of negotiating to install them.

 

[Mocopo]

Right now just new bumpers and winch. The quadratic option does seem pretty good. Thanks for the help.

My opinion, that others may disagree with...

I'd get a good set of rock sliders before skids. Especially for a 2 door, your wheel base (breakover angle) makes you naturally more protected from rocks and dragging under there. I know a lot of 2 dr owners that will swear a 2 dr just doesn't need skids. I don't know I'd go that far, but I do see why they'd need them less than a 4 dr, and have direct experience with that since my JK was a 2 dr, and I wheeled that thing pretty good.

Additionally I wouldn't go for an expensive set of skids when you do get them, probably only need engine/transmission skid and transfer case skid. Only go for the full skid plate systems if you plan on doing some serious wheeling, and even then, cheaper options protecting what I just mentioned would still probably be enough. From that point, I would recommend just adding skids where it looks like your hitting. If you find yourself hitting your diffs, consider diff skids. If your control arm mounts, or lower shock mounts are getting hit a lot, consider getting skids for those.

What convinced me to get a lot of nice skids was I found myself going through a lot of rock gardens. Diff catchers everywhere. You hear a smack underneath about every 5 feet. Now I have more peace of mind. Still building my set tho, diff skids are next.

 

[3D duck]

My opinion, that others may disagree with...

I'd get a good set of rock sliders before skids. Especially for a 2 door, your wheel base (breakover angle) makes you naturally more protected from rocks and dragging under there. I know a lot of 2 dr owners that will swear a 2 dr just doesn't need skids. I don't know I'd go that far, but I do see why they'd need them less than a 4 dr, and have direct experience with that since my JK was a 2 dr, and I wheeled that thing pretty good.

Additionally I wouldn't go for an expensive set of skids when you do get them, probably only need engine/transmission skid and transfer case skid. Only go for the full skid plate systems if you plan on doing some serious wheeling, and even then, cheaper options protecting what I just mentioned would still probably be enough. From that point, I would recommend just adding skids where it looks like your hitting. If you find yourself hitting your diffs, consider diff skids. If your control arm mounts, or lower shock mounts are getting hit a lot, consider getting skids for those.

What convinced me to get a lot of nice skids was I found myself going through a lot of rock gardens. Diff catchers everywhere. You hear a smack underneath about every 5 feet. Now I have more peace of mind. Still building my set tho, diff skids are next.

Ok that makes sense. I wonder if thats why I can only find 1 or 2 places that even make them for a 2 door. Will for sure check out rock sliders, and maybe the control arm mounts, i believe I saw some of those for pretty cheap so might as well pick them up. Really appreciate the help.

 

[ColonelSanders]

I just had rails/sliders under the doors for a lot of moderate trails in Moab, and was glad I had them a time or two there. After doing the Rubicon I decided my rear LCA mounts were getting beat up and my diffs were in danger, so added protection there before doing Slick Rock. I think I’m getting hung up more with the diff sliders but they are taking abuse. The stock belly armor on my JLUR has been fine. It has taken hard hits and just scratches. Without the side rails I would have a mangled body as I’ve slid sideways into boulders and pivoted off them as needed. When you start going up/down ledges 18” or so you will want solid bumpers.. or when you need a winch for self recovery.

 

[zouch]

i’d suggest starting with what’s most vulnerable and/or hangs lowest.

if you haven’t already, relocate the Steering Stabilizer up out of harms way; in stock configuration, it’s a Rock Magnet.

looking underneath, i was shocked at how low the rear Shock/Control Arm Mounts are. there're banged up pretty quickly.

Difs are next; beefier Dif Covers are nice for strengthening the pumpkin and preventing Bad Gear Things, but most of them don’t dissipate heat as well as stock.
figure out what’s important to you and where you want to compromise; you might want a Dif guard that eats a little clearance instead of a heavier/thicker cover.

EDIT:
a Hitch Slider might be a good idea too. relatively inexpensive, and provides a good Recovery Point for your Soft Shackles.
@3D duck

 

[3D duck]

I just had rails/sliders under the doors for a lot of moderate trails in Moab, and was glad I had them a time or two there. After doing the Rubicon I decided my rear LCA mounts were getting beat up and my diffs were in danger, so added protection there before doing Slick Rock. I think I’m getting hung up more with the diff sliders but they are taking abuse. The stock belly armor on my JLUR has been fine. It has taken hard hits and just scratches. Without the side rails I would have a mangled body as I’ve slid sideways into boulders and pivoted off them as needed. When you start going up/down ledges 18” or so you will want solid bumpers.. or when you need a winch for self recovery.

I got a solid bumper and winch:
Carnivore mid width front bumper
RES-Q 12K winch w/ synthetic winch cable.
sliders now on the top of my to get next list.

 

[3D duck]

i’d suggest starting with what’s most vulnerable and/or hangs lowest.

if you haven’t already, relocate the Steering Stabilizer up out of harms way; in stock configuration, it’s a Rock Magnet.

looking underneath, i was shocked at how low the rear Shock/Control Arm Mounts are. there're banged up pretty quickly.

Difs are next; beefier Dif Covers are nice for strengthening the pumpkin and preventing Bad Gear Things, but most of them don’t dissipate heat as well as stock.
figure out what’s important to you and where you want to compromise; you might want a Dif guard that eats a little clearance instead of a heavier/thicker cover.

Hmmm, not sure if steering stabilizer has been relocated yet. I bought it used, and guy before me lifted it and put upgraded shocks on it, so would have to look and see if he also did that. Will check it out.
I seen some control arm plates that were only like $60 for 2, so may pick those up.
If i got smth for diff, i would probably do a plate, not new cover.

 

[3D duck]

I really appreciate the help and input everyone. Sounds like its best to skip skid plates for now, and do rock sliders + control arm plates.

 

[bd100]

If you have an automatic transmission then the engine oil pan skid plate would be great because it also protects the transmission lines from branches and roots and such. (At least on the 3.6...)

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