ROCK HARD 4X4 Front Control arm skids.

[Dyolfknip74]

Lmao. I think I found my problem. Don't ever say a middle aged Canadian dude doesn't have stupid strength when working on his jeep.
Sigh. Sent her a little too hard bud.

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[Remorseless]

Lmao. I think I found my problem. Don't ever say a middle aged Canadian dude doesn't have stupid strength when working on his jeep.
Sigh. Sent her a little too hard bud.

 

[GATORB8]

Anyone have the thread with the MC FAD skid trim to fit these? I remember seeing it, but can’t find it now. I think he notched the MC skid.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Anyone have the thread with the MC FAD skid trim to fit these? I remember seeing it, but can’t find it now. I think he notched the MC skid.

I don’t remember that thread, but the RockHard FAD skid fits without modification. It’s tight, but it fits.

 

[blink9cd]

I'm planning on doing this install today. I see the instructions I have the latest from Rock Hard, 190ft lbs both front and rear. Is that correct for rear? It matches the OEM fronts, but is double the OEM rears??

 

[NewJLU2019]

Wouldn't think the torque would be different for Willy or Rubicon. My paperwork says do one side at time. Front and rear at #190 and then do other side front and rear #190

@Roky sent me a video on installing the driver's side front skid cause the axle will move some and might be hard to get the bolt through. The guy on video used floor jack to raise drivers' side some.

Raised Jeep some behind the front wheel. I did this and my bolt went through easier.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

For anyone who comes across this thread, I’d like to recommend spending a bit more to buy replacement hardware for the stuff that RockHard supplies. I used gold zinc grade 10 bolts, lock nuts, and hardened steel flat washers that won’t deform under the high torque that’s required to keep everything tight. No corrosion and no concern about torquing it down tight.

 

[blink9cd]

Wouldn't think the torque would be different for Willy or Rubicon. My paperwork says do one side at time. Front and rear at #190 and then do other side front and rear #190

@Roky sent me a video on installing the driver's side front skid cause the axle will move some and might be hard to get the bolt through. The guy on video used floor jack to raise drivers' side some.

Raised Jeep some behind the front wheel. I did this and my bolt went through easier.

I emailed Rock Hard and they told me to start with OEM on the rears, and no need to go tighter if it stays in place...I appreciate they got back to me quickly, but there being lots of different directions doesn't make me feel great..

 

[blink9cd]

For anyone who comes across this thread, I’d like to recommend spending a bit more to buy replacement hardware for the stuff that RockHard supplies. I used gold zinc grade 10 bolts, lock nuts, and hardened steel flat washers that won’t deform under the high torque that’s required to keep everything tight. No corrosion and no concern about torquing it down tight.

Is this the hardware list that was posted above? Worth putting off the install today for a few days to get that hardware? I'd like to do this only once and not run into any issues..

This is a picture of the distinct pieces in my somewhat recent kit for the front:

The bolts are pretty heavy and say JH 10.9. Washers are kinda rough. Nut has what looks like NH 8 on it. Are they the same ones people were having issues with?

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Is this the hardware list that was posted above? Worth putting off the install today for a few days to get that hardware? I'd like to do this only once and not run into any issues..

This is a picture of the distinct pieces in my somewhat recent kit for the front:

The bolts are pretty heavy and say JH 10.9. Washers are kinda rough. Nut has what looks like NH 8 on it. Are they the same ones people were having issues with?

You don’t need to replace them, but I did. That bolt is strong, but it will rust. Those washers will deform under 190 ft/lbs of torque. The nut is fine, but I replaced it with a gold zinc one anyway when I replaced everything else because it’s a nylon lock nut and I felt better using a new one after having been torqued down that hard. It’s class 10. And it matches the other hardware. I reused the original shims, mine weren’t loose and I didn’t need to use extra washers.

 

[GATORB8]

@blink9cd The rating is probably just based on the hardware. The goal is to squeeze the bracket assembly to lock in the bushing sleeve, which is hard to see.

 

[blink9cd]

@blink9cd The rating is probably just based on the hardware. The goal is to squeeze the bracket assembly to lock in the bushing sleeve, which is hard to see.

Sorry not to sound dense, but this in reply to me asking about how their torque specs for the rear are so different than OEM? Too many threads going on

If so, I probably need to learn more about why torque values are what they are (I'm still relatively new to wrenching, it only started with this Jeep). But is the summary torque values are only based on the hardware, not the application? Meaning the same grade/size bolt in two different spots on the Jeep will always be the same value?

I think I thought they were more determined by what force you need in a specific spot (however you determine that... ? I've never done any "real" engineering), and that determines how you source a bolt for that spot that's rated to at least up that measurement. So for example, engineers figured out more force was needed on the front LCAs than rear LCAs due to forces that act upon the Jeep while driving?

 

[blink9cd]

You don’t need to replace them, but I did. That bolt is strong, but it will rust. Those washers will deform under 190 ft/lbs of torque. The nut is fine, but I replaced it with a gold zinc one anyway when I replaced everything else because it’s a nylon lock nut and I felt better using a new one after having been torqued down that hard. It’s class 10. And it matches the other hardware. I reused the original shims, mine weren’t loose and I didn’t need to use extra washers.

Well I thought about it for a while and decided I'm not in a rush. I've helped wrench on a friend's older GX470 with a ton of rust issues. They are a huge pain and I want to avoid that if I can. I also don't want to deal with the deforming washer, and maybe any clunking, loosening, or other issues -- is it that the washer provided was designed with their original torque specs in mind (someone said they first recommended 100 ftlbs), they kept revising the torque up to OEM spec, and didn't change the provided hardware? And then the idea is that after the washer deforms, the skid slowly does too, which then causes the issues?

I suppose I'll just buy everything on the shopping list that was posted by @swang and @Gadgettr1. Just for a clarification, are some of those washers meant for as total replacements for the shims, or just in addition to the shims? And do you think it's preferable to use their shims over the washers on a new install? (and just fill in any gaps with washers?). Just wanna get this right on my first try, and maybe have it all written down nicely for others that follow.

 

[Chugiakguy]

I was seriously considering putting on these RockHard front LCA skids, but after reading through this entire thread, I am now not so sure.

 

[GATORB8]

Sorry not to sound dense, but this in reply to me asking about how their torque specs for the rear are so different than OEM? Too many threads going on

If so, I probably need to learn more about why torque values are what they are (I'm still relatively new to wrenching, it only started with this Jeep). But is the summary torque values are only based on the hardware, not the application? Meaning the same grade/size bolt in two different spots on the Jeep will always be the same value?

I think I thought they were more determined by what force you need in a specific spot (however you determine that... ? I've never done any "real" engineering), and that determines how you source a bolt for that spot that's rated to at least up that measurement. So for example, engineers figured out more force was needed on the front LCAs than rear LCAs due to forces that act upon the Jeep while driving?

Yes, sorry, that’s what I was replying to.

It’s really a result of the opposite thought process happening, bigger/stronger hardware is more expensive, so the engineer (with a factor of safety) will target the smaller hardware that can take the required loads and clamping force. The specified torque varies a little even for the same size/grade bolt, but in general the torque spec will follow the size pretty closely.

In the stock suspension:
M10 is 45 to 50 ft lbs
M12 is 60 to 80. (Front UCAs)
M14 is 90 to 120 (Track Bars, rear CAs)
M16 is 190 (Front LCAs)

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