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Rear Trackbar Relocation Bracket

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Also my issue is driver side. Again, thank you for any help.
Yeah, I meant rear left. I went back and fixed that wording. It's the relocation bracket on the axle side hitting the spring.

So, you still have stock control arms, track bars, and steering linkages? What size tires do you have, or are planning for? How do you plan on using your Jeep?
 

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SWVA JLUR

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Yeah, I meant rear left. I went back and fixed that wording. It's the relocation bracket on the axle side hitting the spring.

So, you still have stock control arms, track bars, and steering linkages? What size tires do you have, or are planning for? How do you plan on using your Jeep?
The front control arms are longer in the MOPAR lift kit and I but a jks front track bar on (already thinking of changing it). All else is stock.
35s on currently, but would like to get everything strong enough for 37s in the future.
We will be doing some trails and a lot of beach driving in the outer banks.
 

scj64

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MetalCloak used to provide track bar brackets with their Game Changer kits for the JK but not for the JL. Not sure what the reasoning is on the difference?
 

jbcrane

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Replacing both front & rear track bars.
Would rather not use relocation brackets if possible, instead simply use existing mounting points.
I too have the 2" Mopar lift and replacing:
a) the front track bar with the Yeti adjustable XD.
b) the rear track bar with Yeti adjustable

I read the AEV paper on Roll-Center Geometry (very interesting), but a little above my pay grade.
Everything else is factory - except the 2" Mopar lift, 315's, and DANA 30/44 AdvanTEK nodular iron covers. Also adding the Metal Cloak rear differential skid and know those bolts will stick out...

So - do I need relo brackets in rear to run the Yeti adjustable?
Learning as I go here... thnx.
 
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Roky

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Replacing both front & rear track bars.
Would rather not use relocation brackets if possible, instead simply use existing mounting points.
I too have the 2" Mopar lift and replacing:
a) the front track bar with the Yeti adjustable XD.
b) the rear track bar with Yeti adjustable

I read the AEV paper on Roll-Center Geometry (very interesting), but a little above my pay grade.
Everything else is factory - except the 2" Mopar lift, 315's, and DANA 30/44 AdvanTEK nodular iron covers. Also adding the Metal Cloak rear skid soon too, and know those bolts will stick out...

So - do I need relo brackets in rear to run the Yeti adjustable?
Learning as I go here... thnx.
You don’t need to run the relo bracket with the adjustable tb, you’ll still be able to center the axle. But raising the rear tb to get as close to level as you can, will improve the handling……
 

jbcrane

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You don’t need to run the relo bracket with the adjustable tb, you’ll still be able to center the axle. But raising the rear tb to get as close to level as you can, will improve the handling……
Thanks @Roky. At this point - with nothing better to compare to - I'm satisfied with handling. For now I'm looking to center the front axle again, and upgrade strength front and back. I'll handle the relo stuff down the road when it's time to make other changes.

If you'd told me two years ago after buying my Wrangler I'd be replacing stuff in the suspension I'd have had a good laugh... I've learned a lot from you guys. Thanks - I think :jk: ?
 

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damageinc321

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I've got the 3.5" Gamechanger on my JLUR and synergy brackets on both ends of my rear track bar. It doesn't at all limit uptravel. My rear sway bar was the only thing that was limiting it, as the bar was hitting the bottom of the frame. Antirock fixed that. After a year of having the relocation bracket, I've yet to find a downside from it.

This is an older pic. I more recently swapped out that synergy rear bar and finally installed the Metalcloak bar that I've been sitting on. The new bar clears just as well, of not better.
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The synergy relocation bracket is the priciest of the lot. It's added benefit over the others is it doesn't rely on a gusset and ubolt that attaches to the axle tube. That would interfere with the Metalcloak rear diff skid, or any other brand skid that attaches to the axle tube.

Except the pricier synergy one, the other brand brackets are typically more cost efficient than a quality adjustable track bar. For less money spent, a relocated factory bar will get the rear axle closer to center and helps to reduce head toss when going over bumps because of the raised rear roll center. An adjustable bar mounted to the factory bracket will allow the axle to be perfectly centered, the bushings will be of much better quality, and the stronger bar will do a far better job of next flexing under the higher leverage forces that accompanies a lift and larger tires. Doing both, as pictured above, is all upswing. The stronger bar, better bushings, raised roll center, and perfectly centered axle will equal a more solid, stable, and planted feel. That all domino affects to the added plus of an improved steering feel. Less rear axle to frame/body movement means less micro corrections to keep the Jeep aiming straight. At least that's the results I got with mine.

I've found that by splurging on the supporting parts, I've been able to more than offset the increased forces of the higher lift and larger tires. No exaggeration, my Jeep rides and handles better now than when it came out of the factory. And I never had any complaints back when itbwas stock. Without even bringing it up, every person that's ridden with me has commented that it doesn't at all drive like a tall vehicle with big tires.

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Nice explanation, I have the most 2" lift with adjustable track bars front and rear with 38" tires and I think the ride quality is pretty good, my only flight gripe is the head toss over straight bumps. I'm also about to add a 3/4" spacer to the front to level out the jeep a bit more, so I was thinking it might be time to add track bar relocation/ drop
brackets.
 

AdamG

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Are there any negatives to installing the bracket?
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