Picking the right leveling spacers

[JeepFiend]

So I've got a mostly stock rubicon with steel bumpers front and rear and warn zeon 10s. I also did a spare tire delete when I went to 35's.

After the install, the front is sagging a bit and I'm trying to figure out how much spacer is needed to bring it back to stock (or in that ballpark...I should have measured first). I picked up some 1/2" teraflex spacers, but I just went out and did some measuring and front has about 5" of clearance, the rear has about 6" of clearance. Measuring end of frame to end of frame, front is sitting at 22", rear is sitting at 24".

I'm guessing lifting the front will settle the rear a bit, but rather than try to overthink it, figured I'd just reach out and see what other folks are running.

TIA

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[AnnDee4444]

All Jeeps sit differently, so I wouldn't go off of what other people have used.

 

[JeepFiend]

All Jeeps sit differently, so I wouldn't go off of what other people have used.

yeah, I'm just thinking of a consensus over try this one....nope...try this one...nope...try this one...damn, empty pockets

 

[3TV]

I would just do 1" 'front spacers based on you measurements. But everyone is different, like the others have said. On mine I ended up adding a 3/4" spacer to the right rear, and a 1/2" spacer to the right front, and nothing on the left side.

 

[JeepFiend]

I would just do 1" 'front spacers based on you measurements. But everyone is different, like the others have said. On mine I ended up adding a 3/4" spacer to the right rear, and a 1/2" spacer to the right front, and nothing on the left side.

I started thinking similar, or at least a 3/4" spacer. I just wasn't sure how much of a seesaw effect there would be.

 

[Willys_Wonka]

I started thinking similar, or at least a 3/4" spacer. I just wasn't sure how much of a seesaw effect there would be.

I’m also in the process of adding TF coil spacers and increasing to 35” tires. If you have the oem rubicon rock rails still on, I would measure from them(front and rear) driver side to the ground confirming rake while on “level” ground. Fender flares can be misleading since some are high top ruby or standard sport flares, which mine are Willys low sport type. The fender cut can visually impair actual rake, so going off a constant like the rails to ground is optimal. You also should factor in load/weight, such as winches or a bike rack. This will lower ride hight. I think having about .5” rake is good especially if you will tow/hitch the rear. You don’t want negative rake, air drag will destroy MPG. So you got 6” clearance, do you mean in the wheel well from the tire top to fender flare bottom? Pictures..

 

[JeepFiend]

I’m also in the process of adding TF coil spacers and increasing to 35” tires. If you have the oem rubicon rock rails still on, I would measure from them(front and rear) driver side to the ground confirming rake while on “level” ground. Fender flares can be tricking since some are high top ruby or standard sport flares, which mine are Willys low sport type. The fender cut can visually impair actual rake, so going off a constant like the rails to ground is optimal. You also should factor in load/weight, such as winches or a bike rack. This will lower ride hight. I think having about .5” rake is good especially if you will tow/hitch the rear. You don’t want negative rake, air drag will destroy MPG. So you got 6” clearance, do you mean in the wheel well from the tire top to fender flare bottom? Pictures..

Yep, 5" wheel to fender in front, 6" wheel to fender in rear, 22" frame to ground front, 24" frame to ground rear. I'm just used to the front having a bit more clearance than the rear. They guy at MetalCloak I talked to said that they come from the factory with 2" rake, and that their lift will minimize it a bit, but in alignment with what you were saying, there needs to be some rake, but I'm guessing it's the elimination of weight in the rear and addition of weight in the front that got me where I'm at.

 

[Willys_Wonka]

Yep, 5" wheel to fender in front, 6" wheel to fender in rear, 22" frame to ground front, 24" frame to ground rear. I'm just used to the front having a bit more clearance than the rear. They guy at MetalCloak I talked to said that they come from the factory with 2" rake, and that their lift will minimize it a bit, but in alignment with what you were saying, there needs to be some rake, but I'm guessing it's the elimination of weight in the rear and addition of weight in the front that got me where I'm at.

I recently swapped in rubicon springs, got me about 1” lift. Just also installed a RC spare relocation bracket, Ace rock slider rails. The added weight didn’t effect ride hight too much. I’m going with 1.5” front and 1” rear spacers to get me to XR ride hight (39” from center key hole to ground) on 35” rubber. This will result in .5” rake. Mopar LCA’s are also going on.

 

[AdamG]

Could just jack up the front using a 4x4 under the bumper. Not the safest thing in the world but you’re only going to put a couple hundred pounds of lift into it to overcome the weight difference. Lift until you like, measure the difference, and you have your spacer answer.

 

[Flip]

So I've got a mostly stock rubicon with steel bumpers front and rear and warn zeon 10s. I also did a spare tire delete when I went to 35's.

After the install, the front is sagging a bit and I'm trying to figure out how much spacer is needed to bring it back to stock (or in that ballpark...I should have measured first). I picked up some 1/2" teraflex spacers, but I just went out and did some measuring and front has about 5" of clearance, the rear has about 6" of clearance. Measuring end of frame to end of frame, front is sitting at 22", rear is sitting at 24".

I'm guessing lifting the front will settle the rear a bit, but rather than try to overthink it, figured I'd just reach out and see what other folks are running.

TIA

This is what I did to measure for my front rake issue and worked very well: I found and parked on some very level pavement. I actually brought an 8' level to help verify this. I placed a small piece of painters tape with an arrow on it, on the center of my front bumper. I measured the distance from the pavement to the bottom of my front bumper at my mark. I jacked up the front of my jeep right under the front bumper until it was where I wanted it to be. I re-measured from the pavement to the bottom of my bumper at my mark. The measurement was off by 3/4" or close enough. I installed a 3/4" spacer, perfect!

Best of luck

 

[blnewt]

I put a 3/4" spacer on my Rubi springs (from a loaded 4dr) to level it out after adding winch/bumper, worked well. I then removed the front spacer and added Teraflex 4dr leveling kit (2" front 1.5" rear spacers) to run 35s (315/70/17s), this kept it level. Need to add at least Mopar lift LCAs to keep the caster in the 5-6 range though.

 

[Willys_Wonka]

I put a 3/4" spacer on my Rubi springs (from a loaded 4dr) to level it out after adding winch/bumper, worked well. I then removed the front spacer and added Teraflex 4dr leveling kit (2" front 1.5" rear spacers) to run 35s (315/70/17s), this kept it level. Need to add at least Mopar lift LCAs to keep the caster in the 5-6 range though.

I’m looking at 1.5” front and 1” rear TF spacers to run 35” tires. Also, the Mopar LCA’s are going on. Did you recalibrate the Speedo once 35” tires where equipped?

 

[blnewt]

I’m looking at 1.5” front and 1” rear TF spacers to run 35” tires. Also, the Mopar LCA’s are going on. Did you recalibrate the Speedo once 35” tires where equipped?

Yes, I have the Tazer Lite for adjusting for tire size, and even better~to keep the ESS off

 

[Willys_Wonka]

Yes, I have the Tazer Lite for adjusting for tire size, and even better~to keep the ESS off

I was considering FlashCal, but might just have the dealer recalibrate the Speedo.

 

[Flip]

I put a 3/4" spacer on my Rubi springs (from a loaded 4dr) to level it out after adding winch/bumper, worked well. I then removed the front spacer and added Teraflex 4dr leveling kit (2" front 1.5" rear spacers) to run 35s (315/70/17s), this kept it level. Need to add at least Mopar lift LCAs to keep the caster in the 5-6 range though.

Did you need to adjust the LCA's with just the 3/4" spacer in front?

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