PCV delete vs Catch can vs leave it alone.

[Chrisbayridge1]

PCV system simply vents unused fuel and maybe some oil vapors from the crankcase back into the engine to increase fuel mileage. I don’t really care about the fuel mileage increase, I manage that with my lead foot.

This simply vents the crankcase fumes into the atmosphere via filter. So your opinion is don’t do it- which I appreciate.

It will have no affect on the engine as you are no longer routing gas and oil vapors back into your engine. Some claim this dirty air is being pumped into your clean engine after the filter and clogs stuff up- I’ve yet to see proof of that yet.

The question I have is the $200 catch can vs this $18 filter kit worth doing either? If my gas mileage starts sucking I can always simply go back to the PCV valve with little effort.

I misunderstood your question, my bad I thought you wanted to completely delete the crankcase vent, which I imagine could cause issues, but a lot of people run oil catch cans with more benefits than risks just don't let the dealer see it or revert to stock when bringing it in for warranty service These dealerships will use any excuse not to honor the warranty

Sponsored

 

[RustyACE]

I misunderstood your question, my bad I thought you wanted to completely delete the crankcase vent, which I imagine could cause issues, but a lot of people run oil catch cans with more benefits than risks just don't let the dealer see it or revert to stock when bringing it in for warranty service These dealerships will use any excuse not to honor the warranty

No problem. That’s why we’re having a conversation.

What I was envisioning was a catch can that I put a opening in the bottom with a section of clear tubing attached, about 12 to 24 inches long and having a valve on the end such that as the oil would drain down to the clear PCV tubing and you would see clearly how much oil had accumulated in the can because it would drain down into the tubing. I would position the end of that tubing in such a fashion that when I change the oil, I can just open the valve and drain the oil out of the can. Think Fumoto type valve at the same time I change the oil.

I thought one of the previous posters was pretty funny about polluting the environment. I guess he’s never been around a 392 with the exhaust valve open. All cars when the Catalytic converter is cold it does nothing for the environment, that’s just raw gas and exhaust hydrocarbons polluting the environment just like a crazy person would.

The volume of positive crank case ventilation gases diverted would be minimal at worst even if completely disconnected.

Sounds like the catch can is the way to go if I decide to move forward. Thank you everyone for all the different perspectives.

As a side bar—There are cars that literally drive down the road with blue smoke pouring out of the back of them so bad as to be a mosquito fogger here in Nashville.

 

[bllprk]

My 3.0 CRD (2008 JGC) has an elephant hose mod. Off of the PVC valve on my diesel, a hose routes the gas to the bottom of the vehicle. This prevents the swirl motor and eventually turbo from failing due to excessive oil in them. Its stinky for sure due to the diesel exhaust gasses by the passenger door, but it does its job with no issues.

 

[RustyACE]

Here is the perfect catch can (you don't have to use the bypass filter, but it is included), and then run the hose down near the oil drain so I can drain the tank and the oil at the same time without having to empty the can. And at $24 and free shipping one is on the way. I'll attach clear PCV hose and put another valve at the bottom (like a Fumoto type valve) so I can "drain" the tank".

Oil Separator Catch Tank Kit 2 Ports Universal Aluminum Oil

 

[roaniecowpony]

Catch cans can be made from about anything from a free coffee can to a mega bucks space shuttle accumulator. Both will do the same thing; expand and condense the oil vapor. A larger one works better than a small one. Locating it where it's cool helps condense more oil/water vapor out.

But here's a 3.6 with 34k miles and no carbon buildup on the intake valves and ports. What problem are you trying to solve?

 

[Willys41]

Catch cans can be made from about anything from a free coffee can to a mega bucks space shuttle accumulator. Both will do the same thing; expand and condense the oil vapor. A larger one works better than a small one. Locating it where it's cool helps condense more oil/water vapor out.

But here's a 3.6 with 34k miles and no carbon buildup on the intake valves and ports. What problem are you trying to solve?

my main reason for installing an oil catch can was the detonation/spark knock I was having.
I first noticed climbing a steep hill in 4WL at 4000 elevation with 91 octane and could not believe what I was hearing.
After some research and reading that crank case fumes/ mist can degrade the octane levels I decided to give it a try.
After installing the UPR oil catch can NO more detonation/spark knock. Completely gone.
The added benefit is catching removing the oil in the intake stream.
I now have one on both my Wranglers and my 6.2 f250.

 

[billrob71]

I bought my jeep used with 26k just did first oil change at 29k installed an oil catch can 200 miles ago and was half full of oil/condensation mix . Glad I added it and the change from 0w20 to 5w30 was such a positive change can’t believe how different/better the Jeep runs

Sponsored