Overheating...

[SolarWizard]

Dunno...the service writer, who is always debatable if they know their ass from a rock, says they can DL all that data...engine temp, speed, gear, throttle position, ambient etc. during the episode.

I've been thinking though, I don't recall EVER hearing the fan go to high speed. Ya'd think it would sound like a helicopter if it was overheating.

that may be the case but you certainly have more ammunition with evidence in hand. Also you could post it here for our info

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[Frostbit]

Using the Tazer JL

So you went to Moab from Oregon and only saw 212°f on the off road gauge? Diesel correct?

If so, I really have an issue...

BTW, other than the heat issue, mine pulls like a raped ape...if I can just keep the temps down.

His trailer is very light.

 

[Plongson]

Don't want to start another thread, but here's a thought. On other diesel rigs, how often does the radiator fan come on? On this one, I'd like to say hardly ever. I pulled a grade yesterday at 75 mph, gauge was at 217 and I stopped to check and found NO fan running. Seemed strange to me. What have you guys seen??

I'm wondering if the overheating issue is tied to the fan...

 

[Frostbit]

Don't want to start another thread, but here's a thought. On other diesel rigs, how often does the radiator fan come on? On this one, I'd like to say hardly ever. I pulled a grade yesterday at 75 mph, gauge was at 217 and I stopped to check and found NO fan running. Seemed strange to me. What have you guys seen??

I'm wondering if the overheating issue is tied to the fan...

What is the actual temperature reading that is considered overheating on the 3.0? My Cummins runs at 200 all day long and will climb to 220 on a rare occasion of a steep long climb when I am at GVW with the camper in the back.

The old 180 is normal may not apply to these rigs.

 

[intentsrig]

On my 3.6 JLR with a manual gearbox and 37's going up a five mile mnt grade at ~55 MPH to 65 MPH with an ambient of about 80 degrees F, the temperature reading on the dash reaches about 230 degrees F.
On a cooler day (65 degrees F), the same climb the engine temps rise to about 220 degrees F.

My $0.015 worth, the JL coiling system should be better. Considering an aftermarket oil cooler.

Same here. Manual, 37’s. Similar temps

 

[Ruby Clatterbox]

Not towing, lots of off road in Idaho, Oregon, S. Dakota this year in 100+ temps. 5000 miles, temp gauge has never reached half.

 

[MIAZ]

Newbie in the forums, been reading them for a few months gathering information to help me decide the diesel Jeep thing. I’ve had and have 4 diesel pickups including our MB Sprinter based 25’ motor home and never had any overheating problems or any hint of them. I was surprised to hear of the temperatures some people have had towing and would appreciate any information that anyone has had with the diesel towing a travel trailer. I’ve read some Gladiator and Ram 1500 forums where some people also had excessive heat too.

 

[rickinAZ]

Those who have reported overheating: Is the path to your radiator completely clear? I doubt that winches impact much, but the auxiliary lights and bull bars create quite a blockage.

 

[JimLee]

Don't want to start another thread, but here's a thought. On other diesel rigs, how often does the radiator fan come on? On this one, I'd like to say hardly ever. I pulled a grade yesterday at 75 mph, gauge was at 217 and I stopped to check and found NO fan running. Seemed strange to me. What have you guys seen??

I'm wondering if the overheating issue is tied to the fan...

I wonder if they did the same thing on the diesels that they did to the gas engines, people whined so much about fan noise that they software "fixed" it to barely run at all. I'm waiting for someone to come out with an aftermarket fan controller as I live close to DV and would run it full blast in the summer, I don't care about the damn noise I want my engine to run cooler.

 

[Plongson]

Well, I started this thread, and for all my initial bitching and moaning about coolant temp, here's a follow up.
Three weeks on the road and over 1000 miles around through Arizona and back home to Utah, the diesel never got too hot. Always ran about 60 to 65 mph, ambient as high as 80... some hellish headwinds and and few pretty good grades... the highest temp observed on the off-road gauge was 222. Mostly 210 to 220.
If this continues, I'm good and I'm happy to just drive it!

 

[MIAZ]

This is kinda more directed towards Paul with his recent trip through Arizona, but any thoughts and/or information are always appreciated. I’m wondering if you kept track of your mpg’s? Arizona is so large and diverse terrain that mileage and possible overheating will certainly be tested. I’m also wondering if you took any of the long and steep routes up to ‘Rim Country’ like I-17 to Flagstaff, AZ-87 up to Payson or US-60 to Show Low? And if so, what speed could you keep up?
We had a motor home that was based on a 2013 MB Sprinter chassis with 188 HP and 325 lbs of torque. Dualies in the rear and 2 slides and we flat towed our ‘13 JKR. Total weight was 11,500-12,000 and I went up I-17 without any problems, maintaining 60 mph and accelerating on less steep sections. So after hearing this Jeep diesel had 260HP and 442 lbs of torque, I automatically assumed that a Wrangler or a Gladiator would be able to climb these steep routes even better. We currently tow our 22’ TT that’s 3100 pounds with our ‘19 Tacoma Off Road with 278 HP and 260 pounds of torque. We don’t use a WD hitch as we’ve found it unnecessary after a lot of travel and different conditions. Normal mpg’s are 10.5 to 12 and the truck doesn’t heat up even though it’s screaming at 4500rpm climbing those mountains and searching through gears all the time. Truck runs good and is decent off-road but not a Ruby and I’m hoping to combine the tow vehicle role and the fun vehicle role. We like more remote locations and gas/fuel mileage is doubly important, might do a return Alaska trip in a bit.
Sorry to get off the track of the thread and the wordiness of this, but when you’re contemplating a Jeep purchase of 50-60k, most people wouldn’t want to make a mistake of what it’s good for and what not. Every vehicle is a compromise of some sort and as EPA rules tightened up, complexity is increasing. Thanks to all that have contributed to my research into this possible purchase, it’s been mind twisting at times and dealers are of very little help. PS, we’ve driven a Mohave and thought it drove a bit lighter and had a more comfortable ride, but it doesn’t have the diesel yet and the range that comes with it.

 

[RubiBlueJLU]

My 2 cents…

Not all, but many here seem to be new to the diesel side. Comparing your experiences with a gas Wrangler or your experiences with a gas RV to the diesel are appreciated, but not really apples to apples.

I am “new” to the Wrangler diesel, but not to the whole diesel experience. I have owned/driven a 42’ Class A Rv with an 8.3L Cumins Turbo Diesel pusher for 10 years. 34,000 lbs going down the road. The past 7 years I have been full timing, criss-crossing the US, towing a Jeep.

The first thing to know, the more fuel you dump into a gas engine, the cooler it runs. That is why you can stand on the gas pedal and climb that mountain grade at 70mph.

Second, the more fuel you dump into a diesel engine, the hotter it runs. Then the boost increases the temp even more. That is why the tractor-trailers all line up and go slow up the mountain grades. Lower gears, optimum rpm’s, controlled boost, controlled temp. Climb!

I know the second from real world experience. My Rv engine is fully mechanical. No fancy electronic controls, no cutoffs. I drive the hills by boost gauge, tachometer, exhaust gas temps and throttle. There is a fine line between maintaining and overheating. As the hill increases, the gears go lower to maintain. I know my engine’s sweet spot. Learned from experience. Without a boost gauge and an exhaust gas gauge, it’s impossible to really tell what’s going on. Without gauges, I would overheat on every trip.

With the diesel Wrangler, you get all the newest electronic controls to keep it from overheating. Limp mode is one of them. Too hot and it shuts you down until the temp comes down. Off-road page gauges help you monitor, but don’t give you all the information you need.
Add a boost and a piro gauge and let’s really see what is really going on.

You can’t drive it like you stole it. It’s a diesel. You have to have some self control and use a little common sense. Also, Wranglers weren’t necessarily built for speed. Really, a brick on wheels?

I haven‘t towed yet, but will be soon.
I have driven fast uphill without issue.
Have not had any temp issues yet.

Mike

 

[rickinAZ]

My 2 cents…

Not all, but many here seem to be new to the diesel side. Comparing your experiences with a gas Wrangler or your experiences with a gas RV to the diesel are appreciated, but not really apples to apples.

I am “new” to the Wrangler diesel, but not to the whole diesel experience. I have owned/driven a 42’ Class A Rv with an 8.3L Cumins Turbo Diesel pusher for 10 years. 34,000 lbs going down the road. The past 7 years I have been full timing, criss-crossing the US, towing a Jeep.

The first thing to know, the more fuel you dump into a gas engine, the cooler it runs. That is why you can stand on the gas pedal and climb that mountain grade at 70mph.

Second, the more fuel you dump into a diesel engine, the hotter it runs. Then the boost increases the temp even more. That is why the tractor-trailers all line up and go slow up the mountain grades. Lower gears, optimum rpm’s, controlled boost, controlled temp. Climb!

I know the second from real world experience. My Rv engine is fully mechanical. No fancy electronic controls, no cutoffs. I drive the hills by boost gauge, tachometer, exhaust gas temps and throttle. There is a fine line between maintaining and overheating. As the hill increases, the gears go lower to maintain. I know my engine’s sweet spot. Learned from experience. Without a boost gauge and an exhaust gas gauge, it’s impossible to really tell what’s going on. Without gauges, I would overheat on every trip.

With the diesel Wrangler, you get all the newest electronic controls to keep it from overheating. Limp mode is one of them. Too hot and it shuts you down until the temp comes down. Off-road page gauges help you monitor, but don’t give you all the information you need.
Add a boost and a piro gauge and let’s really see what is really going on.

You can’t drive it like you stole it. It’s a diesel. You have to have some self control and use a little common sense. Also, Wranglers weren’t necessarily built for speed. Really, a brick on wheels?

I haven‘t towed yet, but will be soon.
I have driven fast uphill without issue.
Have not had any temp issues yet.

Mike

Great/informative post - thanks. Please elaborate on gas engines running cooler as more fuel is injected. That seemed counter-intuitive, but engineering is not my strong suit.

 

[RubiBlueJLU]

Great/informative post - thanks. Please elaborate on gas engines running cooler as more fuel is injected. That seemed counter-intuitive, but engineering is not my strong suit.

I was speaking in generalizations, here is a technical explanation of extra fuel and engine temps.

https://www.motorauthority.com/news...rich,its presence lowers cylinder temperature.

 

[Wrangler man]

Simpl.,Bank

My 2 cents…

Not all, but many here seem to be new to the diesel side. Comparing your experiences with a gas Wrangler or your experiences with a gas RV to the diesel are appreciated, but not really apples to apples.

I am “new” to the Wrangler diesel, but not to the whole diesel experience. I have owned/driven a 42’ Class A Rv with an 8.3L Cumins Turbo Diesel pusher for 10 years. 34,000 lbs going down the road. The past 7 years I have been full timing, criss-crossing the US, towing a Jeep.

The first thing to know, the more fuel you dump into a gas engine, the cooler it runs. That is why you can stand on the gas pedal and climb that mountain grade at 70mph.

Second, the more fuel you dump into a diesel engine, the hotter it runs. Then the boost increases the temp even more. That is why the tractor-trailers all line up and go slow up the mountain grades. Lower gears, optimum rpm’s, controlled boost, controlled temp. Climb!

I know the second from real world experience. My Rv engine is fully mechanical. No fancy electronic controls, no cutoffs. I drive the hills by boost gauge, tachometer, exhaust gas temps and throttle. There is a fine line between maintaining and overheating. As the hill increases, the gears go lower to maintain. I know my engine’s sweet spot. Learned from experience. Without a boost gauge and an exhaust gas gauge, it’s impossible to really tell what’s going on. Without gauges, I would overheat on every trip.

With the diesel Wrangler, you get all the newest electronic controls to keep it from overheating. Limp mode is one of them. Too hot and it shuts you down until the temp comes down. Off-road page gauges help you monitor, but don’t give you all the information you need.
Add a boost and a piro gauge and let’s really see what is really going on.

You can’t drive it like you stole it. It’s a diesel. You have to have some self control and use a little common sense. Also, Wranglers weren’t necessarily built for speed. Really, a brick on wheels?

I haven‘t towed yet, but will be soon.
I have driven fast uphill without issue.
Have not had any temp issues yet.

Mike

Mike on all the fleet diesel vehicles that I operate on a daily basis have all those gages and parameters you speak of in your early model RV. It is imperative to have those to operate a diesel correctly. Mopar I'm sure is aware of this but realized the majority of Wrangler diesel owners would not understand. That so, they left it out. Strongly recommend getting the Banks I dash and you can set and view the parameters, as many as you like. Like many I wish we had a Cummings Wrangler in its simple configuration as a option.

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