Off road plus????

[thegame81]

What about the 392 which is always in 4x4 auto. Can off road plus be used regular on road driving for a little more ummphhh ! Lol

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[Jtphoto]

What about the 392 which is always in 4x4 auto. Can off road plus be used regular on road driving for a little more ummphhh ! Lol

It’s more for the dunes so you can engage the rear locker in 4Hi but I suppose since it does increase throttle response you could use it on the street for a little more crisp throttle.

 

[thegame81]

It’s more for the dunes so you can engage the rear locker in 4Hi but I suppose since it does increase throttle response you could use it on the street for a little more crisp throttle.

Seems to work like my grabd cherokee trail hawk 5.7 sport button did. Seems very similar.

 

[Dyolfknip74]

It’s more for the dunes so you can engage the rear locker in 4Hi but I suppose since it does increase throttle response you could use it on the street for a little more crisp throttle.

It has specific setting in both 4hi and 4lo. Not just for dunes.

 

[unsavory]

If you push the Wife mode, the Jeep starts nagging you. Your driving to fast, stop tailgating that car...

You know what the cure for that is? Don't drive so fast, and stop tailgating.

 

[Ratbert]

You cannot use 4X4 on dry paved roads. Snow and ice only. You running down snow/ice and hit dry patch concrete you will know it. Tires will jerk you around. 4H 4L only off-road.
 2H: Off Road+ Unavailable, Shift to 4WD
 4H: 4WD High Off Road+ Active
 4L: 4WD Low Off Road+ Active

You cannot use 4x4 on dry paved roads???

 

[Remorseless]

You cannot use 4x4 on dry paved roads???

You can, but it's bad for the transfer case and driveline. If you encounter a situation where the front and rear driveshafts want to rotate at different speeds you'll do damage to the transfer case and potentially other components. 4x4 is best left to surfaces that allow wheel slip (i.e. dirt and other "loose" surfaces) in order to avoid driveline binding.

 

[2nd 392]

You know what the cure for that is? Don't drive so fast, and stop tailgating.

Works for those, but I find the cure for “ It’s Too High” and “It’s Too Loud” unacceptable. Well— I sometimes cave on “It’s Too Loud”?

 

[Jtphoto]

The 392 is 4x4 all the time, There is no 2hi.

 

[Obi.Wan.Shawnobi]

So I took delivery of my 4Xe Rubicon a few days ago. Come to find out, 4Xe's do not get the off road plus option. Kind of weird.

Also, my front axles do not have ball joints. But like some sort of massive CV joint. What other models have these?

 

[Ratbert]

So I took delivery of my 4Xe Rubicon a few days ago. Come to find out, 4Xe's do not get the off road plus option. Kind of weird.

Also, my front axles do not have ball joints. But like some sort of massive CV joint. What other models have these?

Aren't the CV joints part of Rock-Trac?

 

[Obi.Wan.Shawnobi]

Aren't the CV joints part of Rock-Trac?

It seems so, I was just doing some research. My 2018 JLR didn't have them, but it also didn't have the 4 Auto model.

 

[Ratbert]

You can, but it's bad for the transfer case and driveline. If you encounter a situation where the front and rear driveshafts want to rotate at different speeds you'll do damage to the transfer case and potentially other components. 4x4 is best left to surfaces that allow wheel slip (i.e. dirt and other "loose" surfaces) in order to avoid driveline binding.

Ah, ok. That's significantly different than "You cannot use 4x4 on dry paved roads."

I imagine most people that do significant off roading have left theirs in 4hi when eventually returning to blacktop. It would take quite a bit of abuse to break something and the crabbing would be a clue that something's not quite right.

 

[NewJLU2019]

You cannot use 4x4 on dry paved roads???

Let me change that. Not very bright to drive in 4x4. Thought common sense would take over. You can do it but pretty dumb too.

Driving on dry pavement or highways with a 4x4 vehicle (especially while the center diff-lock is switched on) is always a bad idea. You should aim to never take your 4x4 out on the dry pavement, as four-wheel drive simply isn't suited to such a surface, and this can increase the risk and danger while you're on the road.

 

[Remorseless]

Let me change that. Not very bright to drive in 4x4. Thought common sense would take over. You can do it but pretty dumb too.

Driving on dry pavement or highways with a 4x4 vehicle (especially while the center diff-lock is switched on) is always a bad idea. You should aim to never take your 4x4 out on the dry pavement, as four-wheel drive simply isn't suited to such a surface, and this can increase the risk and danger while you're on the road.

@Ratbert FYI, this is what I was going towards - you can do it, technically, but it's not smart, and it's just asking for an issue. I was being a little bit of a turd and meant to add a quip about you can, but you shouldn't, but was in the middle of stuff when I made the post and didn't add it. Anyway, reason for that is due to the way a part-time transfer case works.

You've got a shaft from the transmission that comes into the transfer case, a set of gears that this then interfaces with (1:1 ratio for 2H and 4H, 2.72:1 or 4:1 for 4L) and power is then sent to the transfer case's rear axle output shaft. You also have your front axle output shaft. When you engage 4H or 4L what you're doing is coupling the front output shaft to the rear output shaft via a chain. This is how power is split 50/50 front/rear when you're in 4H or 4L - the front and rear output shafts are directly coupled together and the power from the transmission must spin both shafts equally. This is also why it's generally a bad idea to drive on pavement in either 4H or 4L.

When you're on pavement your wheels really don't slip, you've got way too much traction. So, if you're driving along in 4H on the highway and you're going straight both output shafts spin at the same speed and all is good. But, no road is really all that straight and eventually you encounter a bank or turn that requires one wheel to spin at a different rate than the other. Since pavement is so much grippier than dirt, and one wheel doesn't have the option to slip, what happens is that the faster wheel attempts to speed up the whole driveline - the other wheel, the driveshaft, and the transfer case output shaft.

However, since the two output shafts are physically connected together, this means one of a few things is going to happen:

Your chain connecting the two output shafts will start to stretch and slip on one of the shafts (not good)

Your chain will hold strong and snap when the torque overloads its capacity (very, very bad)

Your chain holds strong and speed up the other output shaft (typically rear) to match the higher speed of the other shaft (typically front, the turning of the front wheels creates a greater delta in wheel speed here). This higher speed is then transmitted to the transmission via the gears that connect the transfer case input shaft to the output shaft. This is how transmission damage occurs - you're now speeding up the shaft that interfaces with the transmission faster than the transmission is trying to spin it. This is known as "wind up", as the transfer case is trying to "wind up" the transmission shaft faster than it wants to spin and eventually stuff breaks. (very bad, but takes some time)

Effectively - you can drive in 4H on the street (there's nothing physically stopping you), but you're setting up to hit one of these scenarios eventually.

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