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word302

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You have no clue what you're talking about. Tell us about the flex an F1/NASCAR car has vs. a King of Hammers.

The OP asked for a good compromise. You can have your own opinion but not your own physics.
Have you driven an AEV-lifted vehicle on a high-speed, twisty highway followed directly after by a Metalcloak and a Rock Krawler-lifted Jeep on the same exact road to compare? I have along with several buddies that day. There was no measurable handling difference between the 3 rigs. Now take them off-road and the AEV Jeep struggles in areas the other 2 don’t even break a sweat. Tell me more about how I have no clue while you try and compare F1/NASCAR to Jeeps.?
 

jeepingib

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Getting us talking about which lift is best is very similar to getting folks talking about football... There are a lot of armchair experts, and it can be difficult to discern the people who know, vs those who just have a favorite.
If I were going to act as a guide and try to help you, I would ask you to be quite honest about what you are expecting from the lift. There are variables that should be considered. What parts are included, control arms, shocks, track bars, arm lowering brackets, etc. What kind of joints are used in the arms. Are there enough adjustments to ensure that the angles are corrected. What kind of spring design/rate is used. Are there several choices from the company to ensure that you get what you want. What kind of shocks are used. And of course this all must be evaluated with cost in mind.

I would say that you should talk to a local shop that you might be considering for the install, but I've found that personal bias usually skews the truth. So you are going to be your own best expert if you do the research to determine what fits your needs the best. It can quickly spiral out of control.
 

danba

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Have you driven an AEV-lifted vehicle on a high-speed, twisty highway followed directly after by a Metalcloak and a Rock Krawler-lifted Jeep on the same exact road to compare? I have along with several buddies that day. There was no measurable handling difference between the 3 rigs. Now take them off-road and the AEV Jeep struggles in areas the other 2 don’t even break a sweat. Tell me more about how I have no clue while you try and compare F1/NASCAR to Jeeps.?
You keep conflating issues and deflecting. Not sure this adds much value to the OP.
 

word302

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You keep conflating issues and deflecting. Not sure this adds much value to the OP.
So you make a claim based on 0 experience which I refute with real-world, first-hand experience and I’m somehow deflecting and conflating issues? I’ve lifted 7 or 8 JLs now including Mopar, AEV, Clayton, Rock Krawler, and Metalcloak. Your claim that a well-engineered lift designed for maximum flex will be “jittery” at speed is patently false and a complete misnomer by people with little to no experience with said lifts.
 

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danba

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So you make a claim based on 0 experience which I refute with real-world, first-hand experience and I’m somehow deflecting and conflating issues? I’ve lifted 7 or 8 JLs now including Mopar, AEV, Clayton, Rock Krawler, and Metalcloak. Your claim that a well-engineered lift designed for maximum flex will be “jittery” at speed is patently false and a complete misnomer by people with little to no experience with said lifts.
You know nothing about me, my experience, nor physics. But you prove adept at trolling. Bye Felicia.
 

Roky

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But max flex comes at a cost on a highway. That same flex will give jitters at 80mph.

Best on road and best off road are oxymorons. Simply you can't have both, especially at reasonable costs.
This statement is ridiculous…..
 

word302

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Getting us talking about which lift is best is very similar to getting folks talking about football... There are a lot of armchair experts, and it can be difficult to discern the people who know, vs those who just have a favorite.
If I were going to act as a guide and try to help you, I would ask you to be quite honest about what you are expecting from the lift. There are variables that should be considered. What parts are included, control arms, shocks, track bars, arm lowering brackets, etc. What kind of joints are used in the arms. Are there enough adjustments to ensure that the angles are corrected. What kind of spring design/rate is used. Are there several choices from the company to ensure that you get what you want. What kind of shocks are used. And of course this all must be evaluated with cost in mind.

I would say that you should talk to a local shop that you might be considering for the install, but I've found that personal bias usually skews the truth. So you are going to be your own best expert if you do the research to determine what fits your needs the best. It can quickly spiral out of control.
The issue here is that 99% of posters have experience with exactly 1 specific lift, so obviously it’s the best money can buy. This same thing applies to every component out there, not just lifts.
 

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ChadPARubicon

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From what you listed Clayton or Metalcloak. I wouldn’t even consider the others. I’d add Rock Krawler to that short list.
Question. I hadn't previously considered RC. Do you ever hear anything about that lift kit the X Factor Pro one that is pure solid 7075 aluminum? I see it online and wondered if it's good and how it runs. I see the kits come with the ability to get shocks from RC but I never hear much about the shocks so I don't how they are either.
 

Bill_BCNtoNY

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I have these guys’ PreRunner lift kit - full disclosure that they’re former clients of mine and friends now - and their kit was driven from Spain to the Sahara, won a raid there and drove back with zero issues. Piloted by MotoGP racer Alex Rins. They will also custom tune the suspension for your use case if you want:



https://www.4x4proyect.com/buy/en
 
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ChadPARubicon

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Getting us talking about which lift is best is very similar to getting folks talking about football... There are a lot of armchair experts, and it can be difficult to discern the people who know, vs those who just have a favorite.
If I were going to act as a guide and try to help you, I would ask you to be quite honest about what you are expecting from the lift. There are variables that should be considered. What parts are included, control arms, shocks, track bars, arm lowering brackets, etc. What kind of joints are used in the arms. Are there enough adjustments to ensure that the angles are corrected. What kind of spring design/rate is used. Are there several choices from the company to ensure that you get what you want. What kind of shocks are used. And of course this all must be evaluated with cost in mind.

I would say that you should talk to a local shop that you might be considering for the install, but I've found that personal bias usually skews the truth. So you are going to be your own best expert if you do the research to determine what fits your needs the best. It can quickly spiral out of control.
I think I want something that has the full set of components needed for proper geometry. For instance, not just springs and shocks. I want it to be as good or better than stock when driving on the highway or around town, which is where I will be most of the time. However, I will take it offroad some too but will not be doing hardcore rock crawling. I was thinking of the Clayton 1.5 inch Overland Plus which would put a two door Wrangler Rubicon over 2 inches. Pair it with Fox 2.0s perhaps. Any thoughts? Other great options?
 

GavinH

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If I’m not wrong metal cloak claims there kit is the most user friendly while also offering the most articulation compared to any other complete kit you can buy (depending on your shock selection). This is what sold me on MC coming from JKS, I’m still running JKS Fox 2.5 I love them. You can always frankenlift your Jeep to get better results but overall MC is best if you don’t want to worry about keeping things greased and as strictly maintained as some others may require. Ive gone just as fast in my Jeep as I do every other car on the highway and I don’t rattle, have death wobble, or any of the other classic Jeep complaints you’ve heard of and if you do experience any of that it’s likely not your springs and shocks causing it
 

MetalDog

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Hi,

I have a new 2024 two door Jeep Wrangler Rubicon in the gas V6 automatic option. I drive 80/20 in that much is on the highway or around town and my vehicle will not be driven a ton as I walk to work each day down the street. I value quality and investing in a great product and would like to run either 33's or 285/75/17 (34's), OR preferably 35 inch tires. Ideally I want 2 to 2.5 inches of lift and have the following kits in mind. Clayton Overland Plus in 1.5 inch and with Fox 2.0 shocks (this will be above 2 inches of lift in a two door JL), Teraflex Alpine CT2 or RT2 (has independent rotation bushings) in 2.5 inch lift, Evo Manufacturing, or MetalCloak GameChanger in 2.5 inches of lift. I also know that Accutune custom tunes Fox shocks and if I go with a Clayton lift I could get some Fox 2.0's from Accutune. Having seen Clayton I can say that it looks bomb-proof and is on a different level of quality. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Just installed a Clayton 2.5 Overland and it is very nice ride, nicer than stock. I went with Falcon 3.3's on the softest setting and Cold mode, which softens the ride even further. Lifetime warranty o lift and 3 yers on shocks.
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