Locker Position Sensor Potting - DANA 44

[WagzDad]

Just drilled the holes in both. It’s the most anxiety I’ve had in a long time. I used a drill press with about 20 steps for each hole.
the rear had oil and the front was dry. Still flushing oil from the rear with electronic cleaner.

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[Mtpockets]

Hopefully someday Jeep will offer these sensors with the potting already done. Waterproof, fluid-proof, whatever you want to call it lol!

 

[Ospreyfe55]

Well looks like I will be tackling this for a 2nd time! I did this a few months ago on my JLUR but just traded it in on a JTR! Seems no one has the 25ml in stock and I also need to find mixing tips! Any one have links for the mixing tips?

 

[WagzDad]

Well looks like I will be tackling this for a 2nd time! I did this a few months ago on my JLUR but just traded it in on a JTR! Seems no one has the 25ml in stock and I also need to find mixing tips! Any one have links for the mixing tips?

Per recommendation from PaulW a couple comments up:
https://www.electromaker.io/shop/pr...-uShZz7IX2vm7PoE2PzsbD1RDlwcVGlAaAm9rEALw_wcB

Thatis where I got a 25ml from.

 

[cs2k]

Just did mine today on a brand new 2021 JLRU with 76 miles. It was surprising how much metal shavings was in the gear oil. Do they not clean the gears after machining them?

I used the 3M DP270 clear instead of the MG832. I like the clear epoxy because when i pushed the epoxy from the back, i can see all the air bubbles in the epoxy that egressed from the front 2 holes. I made sure to keep pushing the compound through until no air bubble can be seen.

However the DP270 does have a 48 hr cure time so I will be waiting around for a couple days before reinstalling them.

The drilling part is unnerving but overall this was not too hard.

 

[Mtpockets]

Just did mine today on a brand new 2021 JLRU with 76 miles. It was surprising how much metal shavings was in the gear oil. Do they not clean the gears after machining them?

I used the 3M DP270 clear instead of the MG832. I like the clear epoxy because when i pushed the epoxy from the back, i can see all the air bubbles in the epoxy that egressed from the front 2 holes. I made sure to keep pushing the compound through until no air bubble can be seen.

However the DP270 does have a 48 hr cure time so I will be waiting around for a couple days before reinstalling them.

The drilling part is unnerving but overall this was not too hard.

So are you saying the drain plug magnet was full of metal shavings at 76 miles?

 

[cs2k]

So are you saying the drain plug magnet was full of metal shavings at 76 miles?

Yes! there were 2 things that I noticed.

1. The drain plug itself had metal shavings attached to it, it was a paste like consistency. When i wiped it off with a towel, there was some slightly bigger chunks in it as well. This was much much more apparent on the rear drain plug. The front one only had a very thin film of metal shavings.

2. The oil itself were pretty clear from both diffs. However, after I let the oil sit for a while, all of the suspended metal particles sunk to the bottom and I could see the black silt at the bottom in sunlight.

This seems to lend credence to the people who are changing their diff oils at 500 miles.

 

[Siblueg]

I did this today on my 2020 JLUR with 3600 miles and had no oil in mine. I found the potting compound to be a little runny but no issues.

 

[Mtpockets]

Yes! there were 2 things that I noticed.

1. The drain plug itself had metal shavings attached to it, it was a paste like consistency. When i wiped it off with a towel, there was some slightly bigger chunks in it as well. This was much much more apparent on the rear drain plug. The front one only had a very thin film of metal shavings.

2. The oil itself were pretty clear from both diffs. However, after I let the oil sit for a while, all of the suspended metal particles sunk to the bottom and I could see the black silt at the bottom in sunlight.

This seems to lend credence to the people who are changing their diff oils at 500 miles.

Thank you for the info.
I will definitely have my diff fluids changed at 10k. (I had them changed at 5K and they both had NO signs of metal in them.)

 

[WagzDad]

Well, I tested it this morning and seems to be working Ok. No warning lights or messages. Engagement was immediate. Unlock seemed a bit slow, but I was stopped and it disengaged once I got rolling. I have only used the lockers a few times…none in the last year So I can’t really compare it to my previous experience.

 

[SwissSteph]

Several of us seem to have noticed a quicker reaction, too. But as many it is difficult to say if it is real or just a placebo effect

 

[MojitoJLUR]

You can Google ELECTRONICS POTTING COMPOUND or ELECTRONICS ENCAPSULATING COMPOUND. You should yield several results doing this.

First of all, great thread, really appreciate it! I just finished reading all 27 pages.

I have the service axle locker system warning and I have the lifetime warranty and my dealer has always been great about replacing stuff even seeing how beat up my jeep is from wheeling. BUT, i have already re-geared and it sounds like I'll be screwed with the dealer fix of a new axle.

It appears that potting will be of no help for a sensor that's already gone bad. I haven't pulled it yet, but the plug on the outside has oil on it when I disconnected it.

I noticed that it was mentioned the replacement harness is not a good option because it now bypasses the faulty sensor. If I were to go with the Z automotive harness, what risks am I running? Really hoping FCA eventually starts to offer the sensor or I can find a connection that can get me one, but want a fix quick as we like to get off road frequently.

 

[chevymitchell]

First of all, great thread, really appreciate it! I just finished reading all 27 pages.

I have the service axle locker system warning and I have the lifetime warranty and my dealer has always been great about replacing stuff even seeing how beat up my jeep is from wheeling. BUT, i have already re-geared and it sounds like I'll be screwed with the dealer fix of a new axle.

It appears that potting will be of no help for a sensor that's already gone bad. I haven't pulled it yet, but the plug on the outside has oil on it when I disconnected it.

I noticed that it was mentioned the replacement harness is not a good option because it now bypasses the faulty sensor. If I were to go with the Z automotive harness, what risks am I running? Really hoping FCA eventually starts to offer the sensor or I can find a connection that can get me one, but want a fix quick as we like to get off road frequently.

There's no risk other than not having an in-transit or partially locked/unlocked indication on the dash. You'll be ok without that indication, but that's really the only downside. Oh, and cost...

 

[MojitoJLUR]

There's no risk other than not having an in-transit or partially locked/unlocked indication on the dash. You'll be ok without that indication, but that's really the only downside. Oh, and cost...

Right...the $180 kinda sucks, but for one that's already broken, cheaper option than getting a new axle and having to regear.

Thank you!

 

[Friday2322]

I potted mine a while back and went wheeling for about 6 hours last weekend. I used my lockers a few times without issue, so hopefully I don't have to worry about it.

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