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Contact the manufacturer directly - they're very quick and efficient at solving even the smallest problem! It's very rare to get this kind of help and response to a problem. They're perfect!

Thanks for sharing :like:, even though I don't speak English and have to put subtitles in my language. I'm now thinking of completely abandoning the idea of putting a "Catch can" :-) On the other hand, I'm really worried about the other problem ... cabonation (I'm not sure of my translation for...

And, alas, probably never, as this engine is no longer offered, so no tuner is going to waste his time developing a modification that only a few interested people will buy.

This is what is said on this forum, these two modifications should be the same. But for me there is a huge and very clear difference. Now it's (finally) perfect

I'm coming back to this old topic. After many weeks and everything I've been able to test (see above). I've come to the following conclusion about MY jeep. The modification of putting a fuse on N1 + N2 and disconnecting the negative of the AUX battery was absolutely not optimal, in view of all...

I've said it here before, but since the legendary Jeep is owned by FCA, it has lost all its legend. If FCA knew how to make good things, we would know about it in Europe ...... I miss my Wrangler YJ :(

yes, and this since my modification "N1+N2 + fuse".

I have already done ... tested each fuse one by one. The ones that have the possibility to be measured (they have two little contacts on them), but nothing. Then I bought a new multimeter to plug it around the "+" of the main battery, then I removed one by one ALL the fuses. Removing all the...

... it still discharges ... but a little bit slower, so I'm still not happy. It's true that if I drove my Jeep every day I wouldn't be able to see this problem, but using it about every two weeks, the problem is there

About a week ago I removed my bypass on "N1+N2 and its fuse" and used the technique of removing the F42. The result is the same, and it's easier to do. No error message, but my main battery still drains, but a little less than before. I don't know what to do anymore to find the origin of the...

My last conclusions After having searched and found a "consumption" (with my new multimeter connected on the "+" of my main battery) while everything was off, and this with the hood open and the two contactors (located on the front left) maintained in closed position with a weight. I finally...

an ARB compressor (which I disconnected) so it is not the problem. two connectors (with LEDs and which indicates me the deplorable state of charge of my battery) which makes it possible to connect quickly an external battery charger. two LEDs for the lighting of the engine hood .... uh with a...

Small return of my tests. With the ammeter connected on the "+" of the main battery, I have about 0.09 A - 0.12 A of leakage. Sometimes when I turn on the engine and let it run for 1 minute, then turn it off I get a leakage of 0.00 A. I left the ammeter on the "+" of the main battery...

I was hoping the problem was the tazer, but frankly I didn't think it was possible and the results of my tests show that without the tazer, it's exactly the same problem. I just ordered on Amazon a "multimeter clamp" like in the video ... I hope with this device to find the culprit. The...

Following my tests, the fact of having removed the Tazer did not change anything, my battery is still drained!? On this video towards the end he talks about a third method, I have only this solution left ... but I don't have the specific measuring device, I'm looking around if someone has one...

Thank you Rhinebeck01 for your information, I made this manipulation following your message :like:

in doubt I just did it

No, it should also be done ????

Here is the state of my "optima Yellow" battery (new) and recharged. My tests are starting without Tazer ... I'll be back in two or three days

Yes #6