You only need to do this if you have a Rubicon that has factory lockers, with the factory locker control switches in factory axles. It's the sensor that tells the computer the state of the locker. You are running aftermarket axles on a Sahara so there is no need for this.
I'm running factory axles on a sahara using factory wiring harness connected to an aftermarket vos switch.
Then you don't need to do it. It only comes into play when the factory axles are connected to the factory locker switches on the Rubicon. Technically speaking all the people with this problem could simply wire the axles to an aftermarket switch and be done with it but then you have to live with the locker warning on your dash.
That is exactly what we did on my wife's Sahara and when my sensor started to fail on my Rubi I cracked her axle open and took her sensor out since it wasn't being used.
Ok thanks. Very interesting stuff here. BTW, i dont get any locker lights when I engage them. I simply push the button on my switch and they turn on. I only knew if they are working by feeling them work on the dirt lol
Right and you never will get any indication on your dash like a light being on unless you have a Rubicon. It's the only model with the lockers integrated into the computer. In my wife's Jeep we have the lockers wired to the AUX switches so we do get a little indicator light on the switch but other than that it is feel in terms of if it has engaged or disengaged. Frankly I like her setup better. There is no computer trying to figure out if it's safe to engage the locker and possibly delay the engagement. In her Jeep you hit the button and they turn on... done.
sensor city on these new rigs man lol
Can I use the Loctite Epoxy? https://amzn.to/3omt2KT or Gorilla 2 Part Epoxy, 5 Minute Set, .85 Ounce Syringe, Clear 2 pack https://amzn.to/3v58yZCGood evening everyone.
I took the time today to run through the potting of my locker sensors. This seems to be a very frustrating point of failure for all of us. I have experienced it myself.
Here are the DIY steps you can follow to properly pot the sensors.
**Keep in mind the amount of time required for the potting material to cure. Tacky at 3-5 hours. 24 hour full cure. Best to do both sensors at the same time when you can wait, at least, overnight.
Also, please understand that this is a temporary fix to an issue we all hope FCA is going to remedy. Hopefully there is, at a minimum, a part number for this sensor we can order through Dealers and Distributors**
Jeep JL TQ Specs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/complete-torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler/
Tools Required:
Parts Required:
- 1/4" Ratchet
- 1/4" Drive T20 Bit
- 3/8" Drive Ratchet
- 3/8" Drive 10mm
- 1/2" Drive Ratchet
- 1/2" Drive 15mm
- Drill
- 3/32" Drill Bit
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Drain Pan
- Teflon Tape
- Electrical Tape
- Sharpe/Marker
- Acetone (Optional)
- Red Loctite
- Dielectric Grease
- Shop towels or Microfiber Cloth
- 832HD Potting Compound (25mL)
These steps are the same for the Front and Rear Axles.
- Using a 3/8" Drive ratchet, drain the diff fluid into your drain pan. Wait for the diff to finish draining. Clean the drain plug and apply teflon tape to the threads. Reinstall at this time.
- Using a 10mm socket, remove the diff cover bolts.
- Using a flathead (or finger tips), remove diff cover.
- Remove the reusable diff gasket.
- Using a 15mm socket, remove the R/H side Cap Bolts.
- Remove Cap Bolts with alignment plate. Keep the bolts with the plate so they go back in the same spots they came out of.
- Using a T20 bit, remove the screw holding the Locker Sensor in place.
- Using a flathead (or fingers), disengage connector safety clip.
- Remove Connector and Sensor.
- Wipe sensor off using a shop towel or microfiber cloth.
- Mark sensor as shown in the picture with a sharpe.
- Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill 3 holes as shown in the pictures. Be VERY careful with this step as the PCB (Circuit Board) is located very close to the clear cap on the sensor. Drill at a very low speed, with light pressure. We need 3 holes for this work properly. One is used to inject potting compound into the top side of the PCB, one for the bottom side of the PCB, and one to let air escape as we are injecting potting compound. Without an air escape, there will be air pockets and this whole thing will be for nothing.
- Inject potting compound as shown in the video. Once you inject the compound in the bottom hole, you will notice the air being pushed out first and then a rush of compound will come out when it's full.
- Once the sensor is full, wipe the top side off with a shop towel.
- Apply electrical tape over the two holes and set the sensor down on its top.
- Wipe off any excess potting compound and fill the void in the back of the sensor with more compound. Let sit for 3-5 hours. Once tacky, clean the sensor using Acetone so there isn't any left over potting material on the outside of the sensor once fully cured.
- Once cleaned, let sit for 24 hours. (At least 12 hours before reinstallation.)
- Once cured, install sensor in reverse order. (Use Dielectric Grease on the connector and Loctite on the T20 screw.)
- Install alignment plate and R/H side Cap Bolts. Be sure to TQ to spec. The TQ specs are different front to rear.
- Install Diff Cover.
- Service Diff.
- Test Locker System.
Don’t use anything but specially formulated electrical potting/encapsulating compound.
Do not use adhesive purposed epoxy.
I didn’t find it in stock either first few days then it showed up a few days later. Mine didn’t come with mixing tip so just heads up. Yes I did order the 25 ML size. I found mixing tip at O’Reilly auto parts. You would expect the tips to be around but none at HoneDrpot, Auto zone, Napa. I gave up and ordered the 20 pack then next day I walk into O’Reily and the is Jb Weld 2 pack of tips $1.99.
