I would say no to Dremel being easier, and I love my Dremel.Would a dremel with a drill bit work well for this? Something small and easily maneuverable? This was my thought and plan but wonder if it would be better to get a small drill press.
I used the $125 Harbor Freight drill press because I did not trust free-handing it. The trick is to set the press at 300RPM (lowest speed) and go very, very slowly. The cover is about 1/16" thick so you do have a little wiggle room. I stopped and checked my depth no less than 15 times while drilling--easier to do that versus hitting the circuit board.I would say no to Dremel being easier, and I love my Dremel.
Certainly a drill press is handy, but not sure how you’d feel the moment of breakthrough (the back is black, so unclamping to inspect and then realigning and reclamping seems like it’d be a PITA). I don’t own one, so maybe I’m wrong. I trust my hand more than a $60 Harbor Freight press, though... and even the slowest speed is very fast on that thing. (Yes, I contemplated buying one for this job.)
A good cordless drill with a *variable speed trigger* is the perfect tool, IMO. On my Milwaukee I flipped to the slower RPM switch position (more torque, slower spin). I went fast enough at the start to begin a hole without letting the bit wander, and then I eased the trigger *way* back. I was able to get super slow rotation. (Think hand drill speed.) I stopped often to inspect progress. Once you feel the bit bite let go of the trigger. Use an exacto to cleanup the hole, assuming you barely broke through. I also used a jeweler’s loupe to admire my work.
I’m telling you, if you’re experienced operating a drill than this sounds harder than it is.
Thank you for this awesome write up! I read it a couple of times before I tried it and several times while doing it and had no issues at all, very complete. I was able to remove the sensor screw without removing the right side carrier(?) Bolts, I just applied light downward pressure and the sensor and assembly moved enough to let me remove the screw.Good evening everyone.
I took the time today to run through the potting of my locker sensors. This seems to be a very frustrating point of failure for all of us. I have experienced it myself.
Here are the DIY steps you can follow to properly pot the sensors.
**Keep in mind the amount of time required for the potting material to cure. Tacky at 3-5 hours. 24 hour full cure. Best to do both sensors at the same time when you can wait, at least, overnight.
Also, please understand that this is a temporary fix to an issue we all hope FCA is going to remedy. Hopefully there is, at a minimum, a part number for this sensor we can order through Dealers and Distributors**
Jeep JL TQ Specs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/complete-torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler/
- 1/4" Ratchet
- 1/4" Drive T20 Bit
- 3/8" Drive Ratchet
- 3/8" Drive 10mm
- 1/2" Drive Ratchet
- 1/2" Drive 15mm
- 3/32" Drill Bit
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Drain Pan
- Teflon Tape
- Electrical Tape
- Acetone (Optional)
- Red Loctite
- Dielectric Grease
- Shop towels or Microfiber Cloth
- 832HD Potting Compound (25mL)
These steps are the same for the Front and Rear Axles.
- Using a 3/8" Drive ratchet, drain the diff fluid into your drain pan. Wait for the diff to finish draining. Clean the drain plug and apply teflon tape to the threads. Reinstall at this time.
- Using a 10mm socket, remove the diff cover bolts.
- Using a flathead (or finger tips), remove diff cover.
- Remove the reusable diff gasket.
- Using a 15mm socket, remove the R/H side Cap Bolts.
- Remove Cap Bolts with alignment plate. Keep the bolts with the plate so they go back in the same spots they came out of.
- Using a T20 bit, remove the screw holding the Locker Sensor in place.
- Using a flathead (or fingers), disengage connector safety clip.
- Remove Connector and Sensor.
- Wipe sensor off using a shop towel or microfiber cloth.
- Mark sensor as shown in the picture with a sharpe.
- Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill 3 holes as shown in the pictures. Be VERY careful with this step as the PCB (Circuit Board) is located very close to the clear cap on the sensor. Drill at a very low speed, with light pressure. We need 3 holes for this work properly. One is used to inject potting compound into the top side of the PCB, one for the bottom side of the PCB, and one to let air escape as we are injecting potting compound. Without an air escape, there will be air pockets and this whole thing will be for nothing.
- Inject potting compound as shown in the video. Once you inject the compound in the bottom hole, you will notice the air being pushed out first and then a rush of compound will come out when it's full.
- Once the sensor is full, wipe the top side off with a shop towel.
- Apply electrical tape over the two holes and set the sensor down on its top.
- Wipe off any excess potting compound and fill the void in the back of the sensor with more compound. Let sit for 3-5 hours. Once tacky, clean the sensor using Acetone so there isn't any left over potting material on the outside of the sensor once fully cured.
- Once cleaned, let sit for 24 hours. (At least 12 hours before reinstallation.)
- Once cured, install sensor in reverse order. (Use Dielectric Grease on the connector and Loctite on the T20 screw.)
- Install alignment plate and R/H side Cap Bolts. Be sure to TQ to spec. The TQ specs are different front to rear.
- Install Diff Cover.
- Service Diff.
- Test Locker System.
My 18 had zero oil in the sensors and nothing abnormal in the gear oil but now it's potted and I don't have to worry about it.Why does my 2021 Rubicon with 5,000 miles have no metal filings in the rear diff and no soaked sensor?
I just had my first oil change at the Dealer and insisted that they remove the rear diff cover, remove all the supposed filings from everywhere, and inspect the rear diff lock sensor for oil intrusion.
Super clean. waste of money. What’s so special about my Jeep?
My build date is 10/28/2020
(Just for pease of mind I’m going have the same procedure done at 10k lol!)