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Lifter failure prevention

CarbonSteel

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You are Right
when you drain the oil first and then open up the oil filter housing you will get maybe 1/2 cup of additional oil coming out the drain plug
Far less then the oil filter housing holds
With the Baxter you now have two check valves
One in the Baxter adapter and one in the silicon anti drain back valve in the spin on oil filter (see picture)
How many time have you taken a spin on oil filter off a car and had oil spill out all over the place
Now let you 3.6 set over night and then remove the oil filter cap pull out the filter and you will see IT IS NOT SOAKED IN OIL . It not even dripping oil. The oil filter housing is empty

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Again, what does that harm? If the galleries were empty AND the oil was completely drained from the surfaces, then MAYBE it would be an issue.

I certainly hope you don't think that causes the failures...
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Willys41

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I don't know what causes the failures and I have not seen any buddy saying this is the causes
Put I do know that the empty oil filter housing and the rattle at start up is not helping the problem
 
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Sean.Lunch

Sean.Lunch

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Here are the instruction
It is fairly easy
Its one of the best things I have done to my Willys
I ask Jon at RPM extreme many question before I ordered it
I ask him if he had any module fail and he said NO
I will be installing one on my wife's Rubicon soon

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That fan controller sounds like a really interesting option. I have noticed that my JL will get up to about 215-220 when wheeling before the fan kicks up to high. Did you give any thought to running one of those coolant additives to keep temps down? Or maybe that won't work with a variable speed fan that has its speed dictated by coolant temp?
 

Willys41

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This is what I did over the past 4 months

Here is what I discovered and what I fixed
This is how the cooling system works or not working
The thermostat opens at 190 degrees
The cooling fans comes on at 1/4 speed at 221 and will only go fulls speed at 231 degrees
I have been trying to get control of the cooling system by adding a pusher fan on the condenser put this is what I found
Most cars including the jeep JK the condenser is mounted 1/4 to 1/2 in. from the radiator
On the Jeep JL the condenser is about 1 1/2 in. away from the radiator
I can get the pusher fan to shoot air though the condenser at 150 MPH put as soon as it hit the radiator the air blows out the large gaps between the condenser and radiator and NO air going through the radiator
Next step was to close the caps between the condenser and radiator to force the air through the radiator
So now with the gaps closed off I have about 15% of the air going through the radiator and the rest of the air is blowing back though the condenser and trans cooler
Two things wrong here. The gap between the condenser is to large and the radiator WILL NOT allow free flowing air to pass through it whether you are pushing air at 150 mph with a fan or diving down the road at 60 /70 mph and that is why you see a 30 to 40 degree swing in the coolant temps. You would thing driving down the road you are getting air passing through the radiator put you are getting very little to none until the fan kicks in and sucking the air through the radiator
I ordered a Mishimoto radiator (back ordered) it looks to have a more open core that will allow more free flowing air to pass through
I will install the Mishimoto and see how it goes
And NO. The radiator is not plugged in any way inside or out side. The jeep did this from day one . New in 2020
The Engineers got this one wrong and they know it from what I have read
READ THIS
https://jalopnik.com/the-engineering-behind-the-jeep-gladiators-tow-rating-1833657453

UPDATE
The Mishimoto radiator made no difference in lowering the temperature
Step 2
Just installed the Rpmextreme JEEP JL PWM FAN CONTROLLER
This is a game changer . Here is how your fan will work with this device


Operation:

When the engine is running the PWM fan will run at a low Idle speed (15%).
When the module reads the engine temp it will command the fan to the desired %.

Fahrenheit

199 degrees = 30%

205 degrees = 50%

212 degrees = 75%

218+ degrees = 100%

Override inputs: These are optional inputs depending on if you ordered them.

These inputs will run the fan as long as the unit is powered up, the engine does not have to be running for these to work. You can use these in various ways.

Example:
When the ( VIOLET ) wire has 12 volts applied the fan will run at MAX speed.

9/15/23
I have only three days of testing put my temps now run 188 to 192 at idle all day long
Normal driving I see 192 to 195 and 199 to 205 under hard acceleration put comes down real fast
Also my oil temps are about 20 degrees lower mainly because the the engine is running cooler and now I have constant air movement over the oil cooler
This weekend I will be testing on a long up hill drive put I suspect of 215
UPDATE 9/23/23


Just got back from a trip to Lake Tahoe from the bay aria


Going up high way 80 from Auburn to Truckee at 65-70 mph the coolant topped out at 212 degrees / Trans 206 / oil 221

As soon as I hit the top of any hill the coolant temp would fall to 188 to 192 within 1 minute along with the oil and trans temps


The last trip to Tahoe about a month ago my coolant temps would hit 221 on any little hill and hit 231 or higher on the larger ones


Rpmextreme JEEP JL PWM FAN CONTROLLER has made a big difference in keeping air moving though the radiator and keeping my jeep running cooler


A PWM FAN CONTROLLER is nothing new. these are out there for other cars /trucks and motorcycles


Jon has programed one just for the jeep JK &JL


info
Jon Schaefer RpmExtreme
205-631-8225 6774 Old Hwy 31N
Rpmextreme.com Gardendale, AL 35071
 

drrags

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Thanks to you, I installed the RPMExtreme fan controller in my JK, and like you said, "it's a game changer". I'm on the other side of the mountains from you, and to get anywhere means going up and down hills. My poor JK was always running in the high 220s t 236º and it really pissed me off. Now I can drive peacefully with no more temperature-anxiety.
 

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Willys41

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Great
I am glad to here other are having the same results that I did
 

Tncdrew

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Great
I am glad to here other are having the same results that I did
This sounds like a win win!
I can't believe how hot things get under the JL hood with these absurdly elevated engine temps. I mean... open your hood and try to touch something in there after driving it around on a warm day... You'll get burned!
Can't be good for the (ridiculous amount of) plastics underhood!
 

Tncdrew

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Well unfortunately, I contacted the guys at RPMExtreme and they've never tested their PWM fan controller on a 3.6L etorque variant, so they couldn't tell me if it would be compatible.... dang!
 

Willys41

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Maybe Jon will send you one to try on your etorque
I think it will work and if it dose he can now sell more units
 

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Tncdrew

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Maybe Jon will send you one to try on your etorque
I think it will work and if it dose he can now sell more units
Yeah... I was kinda thinking that the cooling/fan portion of the V6 ECU (etorque or not) has got to be basically the same...
Maybe I should volunteer as the test mule.... ?
 

Flip

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This sounds like a win win!
I can't believe how hot things get under the JL hood with these absurdly elevated engine temps. I mean... open your hood and try to touch something in there after driving it around on a warm day... You'll get burned!
Can't be good for the (ridiculous amount of) plastics underhood!

You got that right! The heat inside my jeep is so hot I can't adjust the vents without damn near burning my figures. Under the hood is so hot I can't touch anything without getting burned, I can barely get the hood open, and the air intake is right there sucking in all that red hot air! I installed a low-profile snorkel as a means of cooler air. It has helped a little bit with temps while driving on pavement but when I'm crawling on the trail, I've seen coolant temps reach as high as 235 degrees which has me concerned.

I contacted RPMExtreme and got the same answer.
 

Tncdrew

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You got that right! The heat inside my jeep is so hot I can't adjust the vents without damn near burning my figures. Under the hood is so hot I can't touch anything without getting burned, I can barely get the hood open, and the air intake is right there sucking in all that red hot air! I installed a low-profile snorkel as a means of cooler air. It has helped a little bit with temps while driving on pavement but when I'm crawling on the trail, I've seen coolant temps reach as high as 235 degrees which has me concerned.

I contacted RPMExtreme and got the same answer.
So, you've got etorque too?
 
 







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