You mentioned ride, and out of a half dozen different shocks we've run between 2 JLs they ride the best on and off road. Overkill maybe, but they do ride better. You can save $5-600 getting jks budget shocks with the same kit, but i have no experience with those.
I have a 2024 jlur and an AEV lift and my front axle (and rear) are centered within 3/8" front and rear 1/8" and I I have about 3.25" lift based on this diagram. visually you can not see 3/8" on my front axle and any time you are driving and your suspension is working the axle is moving in either direction any way.
Most measure about 1/4" off center per 1" of lift. Should be more than 3/4" in your case but who knows why it isn't? My JT was off by 1/2" with just a 2" spacer.I have a 2024 jlur and an AEV lift and my front axle (and rear) are centered within 3/8" front and rear 1/8" and I I have about 3.25" lift based on this diagram. visually you can not see 3/8" on my front axle and any time you are driving and your suspension is working the axle is moving in either direction any way.
What’s your height from spring perch to axle….?I have a 2024 jlur and an AEV lift and my front axle (and rear) are centered within 3/8" front and rear 1/8" and I I have about 3.25" lift based on this diagram. visually you can not see 3/8" on my front axle and any time you are driving and your suspension is working the axle is moving in either direction any way.
the one I installed on my buddy's xtreme is the same as mine. I neglected to measure either one prior to the lifts so not sure where they started from as far as axle center goes. I took every other measurement but failed to measure axle center stock.
That drawing that you have is a sport/sahara, Rubis are 11-1/4 to 11-3/8 factory height… so it’s likely you got less lift and that’s why your axles only shifted 3/8 “ …..at least this was the case with mine, and a lot of the Rubis I’ve lifted, however I haven’t lifted a ‘24 yet, things may have changed….
I'm wondering if the xr track bar is longer or the axle bracket hole is corner toward the drivers side to compensate for the 1.5" factory lift? If that's the case you are probably closer to 1.5" lifted over stock and therefore 3/8" off center tracks. I'm guessing if you throw 3" plus at a sport the axle will be off by 3/4" or more.
Which shocks in particular are you talking about that are the best out of the half dozen? And have you tried Rancho 9000XL to compare? I was looking at those.
Stock rubicon, xr rubicon, rocksports (good budget long travel shocks with a great on road ride but a little under dampened for any kind of speed off road), bilstein 5100s (better dampened but fireside valving is suffer in road, good for handling but firm), fox 2.0s (soft on road with enough dampening for speed runs off road) and fox 2.5 reservoirs with internal bypasses (obviously the best of the bunch, enough dampening for freeway speeds in wash boards and the occasional jump, but you'll have to spend more than the lift kit I linked just on shocks). I'm sure the jks monotubes would be good for your use, as most will never push the kind of speeds to need anything more.
Running flat ground at sea level, the 4.10 is fine for 37s with an auto trans. If you get into higher altitude and uphill driving, your experience will be a lot better with 4.88. My recommendation is to run your stock 4.10 with the 37s and if you hate it, regear in the future. No reason to do it now since you might find the ride ok as-is. As far as the stabilizer, I would invest in a HD adjustable track bar and longer lower front control arms before worrying about a new stabilizer.
