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Kinetic rope?

Zandcwhite

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The 8,000 lb version is only good up to 7/16" synthetic line, although they do make a 20k lb version it doesn't show a line size limit. At 1 lb 6 Oz, I would not even consider putting that potential projectile in a kinetic pull, not to mention the tight bend radius is tough on your ropes. Nowhere on their site do they recommend it for use with kinetic ropes either. As far as shortening my winch line, the motor does that pretty well? Short of trying to pull something like a sxs out with a hand winch I just don't see the recovery situation it would be useful? Seems like it adds complexity to the rigging, stress to the lines, and a potentially lethal projectile mid pull with very little gain to me.
 

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The 8,000 lb version is only good up to 7/16" synthetic line, although they do make a 20k lb version it doesn't show a line size limit. At 1 lb 6 Oz, I would not even consider putting that potential projectile in a kinetic pull, not to mention the tight bend radius is tough on your ropes. Nowhere on their site do they recommend it for use with kinetic ropes either. As far as shortening my winch line, the motor does that pretty well? Short of trying to pull something like a sxs out with a hand winch I just don't see the recovery situation it would be useful? Seems like it adds complexity to the rigging, stress to the lines, and a potentially lethal projectile mid pull with very little gain to me.
like any other tool, if you don’t know how to probably use it you are better off not to.
 

Zandcwhite

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like any other tool, if you don’t know how to probably use it you are better off not to.
You posted in the kinetic rope thread a product that isn't designed or recommended for use with kinetic ropes, but I'm the one who doesn't know how to use it...
"PRIMARY USE:

Winches achieve maximum pulling power with only one layer of line wrapped on the drum. However, when you extend your winch line, you often end up needing a way to shorten your winch line (or winch line extension). minimal line on the drum. The X-Lock© allows the user to shorten a Synthetic Winch Line or Winch Line Extension between the winch and the anchor point. This allows an operator to properly configure their line to begin pulling with only one layer of line on the drum, the condition for which it has maximum pulling power. Beyond this purpose, the X-Lock© can do much, much more!

SECONDARY USES:

V-BRIDLE CONFIGURATION: A V-Bridal recovery configuration is used when it is necessary to reduce the load by using two anchor points instead of one. The X-Lock© can be used to attach a winch line to another line that has each end serving as an anchor. Snatch Blocks are often used in this way, however they are prone to unwanted travel, while the X-Lock© will remain firmly in place. No other component on the market offers this capability.

JOINING WINCH LINE, WINCH LINE EXTENSION OR SAFETY LANYARD: The X-lock© allows two or more synthetic lines with eyes to be safely connected. This is most useful in complex recoveries where several winches from different angles may be required.

MANUAL BELAY OF VEHICLE: Using the Winch Line Extension and Pully Block in conjunction with the X-Lock©, in an emergency a user can can manually lower / belay an object [vehicle] down a slope in a controlled manner. Should a vehicle have to descend a very steep slippery slope, controlling the decent with a belay is appropriate. No other vehicle recovery kit component offers this feature. Check out this video demonstration created by the experts at Arc Off-Road Training regarding how to belay a vehicle using the X-lock©: SAFE-XTRACT TRAINERS"
Where in any of those uses do you see kinetic recovery? Not designed or intended for that use.
Primary use:
I oversize my winch so that there's never a need to spool extra line out and then shorten it for extra pulling force making it useless there.
Secondary uses:
V-bridal:
I prefer a pulley or snatch ring as there's less friction on the line and properly set up there's no unwanted movement.
Joining winch line/ extension/safety lanyard:
Soft shackle works just as well and won't become a heavy metal projectile if things go wrong.
Manual Belay of vehicle:
As in my 1st post, about the only place I see using this thing, but you do you.
 
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rdfact

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Everyone has made the assumption it's a 7/8" rope? Is that right? If so, find a better class.

That's why I'm astounded someone would use a 7/8" rope for training. How old was that rope?
I have a 7/8" and the broken one seemed thicker but I can't say for sure.
 
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Well I just pulled the trigger, I mean pushed the button on the Bubba 7/8in by 30ft. 7/8in is rated for 5700lbs to 9000lb vehicles per Yankum website. I haven’t weighed my JLR but I think it is probably in the 4500 to 5000lb range loaded up. Yankum says 3/4in is rated for 3800-5400lb vehicles but also says it’s designed for UTV/SUVs.

Both Yankum and Bubba 7/8in are rated for 28,600lb. I would guess they both source their rope from the same manufacturer.

It arrives tomorrow. The Yankum is back ordered and my impatient self didn’t want to wait. I would be kicking myself if I got stuck before then. :)

Both net out the same price as the Bubba is off Amazon and free one day shipping. The Yankum is cheaper but shipping negates the savings. Both made in USA.
I got a similar one from GearAmerica. I've pulled 2 stuck vehicles on the beach with it, has worked a treat. Both were larger than my JLR. Also fits nicely in the small rear bin.
 

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The 8,000 lb version is only good up to 7/16" synthetic line, although they do make a 20k lb version it doesn't show a line size limit. At 1 lb 6 Oz, I would not even consider putting that potential projectile in a kinetic pull, not to mention the tight bend radius is tough on your ropes. Nowhere on their site do they recommend it for use with kinetic ropes either. As far as shortening my winch line, the motor does that pretty well? Short of trying to pull something like a sxs out with a hand winch I just don't see the recovery situation it would be useful? Seems like it adds complexity to the rigging, stress to the lines, and a potentially lethal projectile mid pull with very little gain to me.
As far as shortening my winch line, ... I just don't see the recovery situation it would be useful?

It would be very unusually that two snatch rings (300% shorter line) isn't short enough - where you have to get that close and need more than 300% pulling power. Another reason to get a 12K winch.

Now I'm going to need to try to hook up two snatch rings and my snatch block for 1/4th the line.

That rope looks like it had been over used/abused for awhile. Taped up sections indicating prior damage. At least it was his truck that got damaged as that thing should have been removed from use, let alone used to teach a class. Kinetic recovery is likely more dangerous than winching due to the forces involved. You are creating a slingshot using two 5k+ pound vehicles. A 7/8" rope has ~30k lb break strength, that force goes somewhere when it breaks. My 1.25" rope has a 54k lb break strength, of course there will be damage if it is abused until failure. A new windshield alone costs 4x what I paid for my rope, replace it when it shows signs of wear.
replace it when it shows signs of wear.

I think 7/8" ropes break and they're not showing signs of wear. Once you yank over 80% of the BLL, my guess is the fibers don't recover. Once you exceed the elastic limit, you've permanently stretched fibers, like exceeding a spring's constant. The elastic limit is lower than the BLL.
 

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I'm in the market for a kinetic rope. Pretty much decided I will go with the Bubba rope 7/8in for my JLR. Just trying to decide on length. 20ft or 30ft. I'm trying to keep my weight and volume to a minimum. Looking for comments from those that have used one more than a couple times. Is 20ft enough? Seems I could always combine it with the recovery strap if needing a longer reach. Is that smart?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HYR8H...colid=31XGZYX9AVZ7D&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Seems I could always combine it with the recovery strap if needing a longer reach. Is that smart?

Someone posted, get the 30', you can't make it longer, but you can if you use a 4" recovery strap.
 

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You probably won't need a longer rope, but I don't think there's a problem using a 4" strap rated at 40,320lb Break Strength.
No… I’m good. As I mentioned before I am being anal on keeping my gear as light as possible. I want to be prepared (Boy Scout) and still be able to use and tow my JLR and stay under weight limits. As a general comment, I gravitate toward aluminum or composite materials wherever possible. Steel is old school.

Full disclosure, I am an old, I mean experienced, aerospace stress engineer with a good understanding of material properties.
 

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I'm in the market for a kinetic rope. Pretty much decided I will go with the Bubba rope 7/8in for my JLR. Just trying to decide on length. 20ft or 30ft. I'm trying to keep my weight and volume to a minimum. Looking for comments from those that have used one more than a couple times. Is 20ft enough? Seems I could always combine it with the recovery strap if needing a longer reach. Is that smart?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HYR8H...colid=31XGZYX9AVZ7D&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
I have the smittybilt 1in (essentially the same as bubba rope) 30ft and the extra length is very useful. For storage, mine is bigger but it still fits nicely in that gap behind both the driver and passenger seats. I pulled my ranger out a few weeks ago and the extra 10ft made it so I wasn't in mud trying to get a running start on the pull.
 
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I have the smittybilt 1in (essentially the same as bubba rope) 30ft and the extra length is very useful. For storage, mine is bigger but it still fits nicely in that gap behind both the driver and passenger seats. I pulled my ranger out a few weeks ago and the extra 10ft made it so I wasn't in mud trying to get a running start on the pull.
Ha… we are on the same page. I was able to stuff the rope in its bag in the well behind my driver’s seat. Also a lot of big waterholes around here and I do like to keep my feet dry. If I am pulling a buddy out though, he is doing the wading. :)

If you are curious, the pax seat well nestles my small tool roll bag. Being that I am rocking a 2dr, space utilization is a priority.
 

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You probably won't need a longer rope, but I don't think there's a problem using a 4" strap rated at 40,320lb Break Strength.
I wouldn't want to mix in a standard strap with a kinetic rope on a full kinetic pull, the strap just isn't designed for shock loading even if the rope in theory will cushion it. Now if someone just needs a little tug, I'll combine every inch of strap/rope/winch line/ tree saver I can round up if need be. Of course if they just need a little tug I'd probably just pull closer to them. Stuck alone, there's no kinetic recovery to be had, but I have run 100' of winch line to my 30' rope to my 20' strap to reach a tree before I started carrying the 100' winch extension.
 
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I wouldn't want to mix in a standard strap with a kinetic rope on a full kinetic pull, the strap just isn't designed for shock loading even if the rope in theory will cushion it. Now if someone just needs a little tug, I'll combine every inch of strap/rope/winch line/ tree saver I can round up if need be. Of course if they just need a little tug I'd probably just pull closer to them. Stuck alone, there's no kinetic recovery to be had, but I have run 100' of winch line to my 30' rope to my 20' strap to reach a tree before I started carrying the 100' winch extension.
I get that. If you do add standard strap in line with the kinetic rope, the static strength rating needs to be much higher. It’s all about sizing your gear to be appropriate and safe.
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