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How did you decide on your engine?

Fsttanks

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I have a 2.0lT, non-etorque, ESS. This from my window sticker:
Trailer–Tow and Heavy–Duty Electrical Group Auxillary Switches
240–Amp Alternator
700–Amp Maintenance–Free Battery
Class II Receiver Hitch
7– and 4–Pin Wiring Harness
I was surprised to learn about the generator as my widow sticker said the same thing. As it was explained to me by FCA and the dealership that replaced two of mine. The window sticker uses a general “common” term as to be understood by the majority of customers that have little to no knowledge of electronics.
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JeepSmash

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I have the 3.6 no etorque. I wanted the simplest engine and I’ve had the 3.6 before and know they’re reliable.

On a less important level I don’t like the sound of the 2.0 😝.
 

Speed331

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I went with the 2.0 in my 2 door and love it. It has less lag than the turbo in my old A4 and you really notice the torque under hard acceleration. It really is a rocket. I drive on the highway every day and am usually the first up the on ramp. With the top off, it can do 0-60 in just under 6 seconds...
 

PocketsEmptied

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I was surprised to learn about the generator as my widow sticker said the same thing. As it was explained to me by FCA and the dealership that replaced two of mine. The window sticker uses a general “common” term as to be understood by the majority of customers that have little to no knowledge of electronics.
Do you happen to have the part # they used to replace with?
 

AnnDee4444

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Actual that is not 100% accurate. My 2020 JLUR non eTorque 3.6 auto with HD electrical/tow package had a generator not an alternator. I know this for a fact as they were replaced twice due to being damaged from other issues in my electrical system. Just over $660 each covered under warranty.

I was told by the dealership that all the HD electrical/tow packages with either the 3.6 or 2.0 have a generator vs a traditional alternator regardless of eTorque.

Non eTorque JLs without the HD towing/electrical package use a traditional alternator would be more correct.
Interesting... there are so many variation of the JL it's hard to keep track.
 

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eck

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Actual that is not 100% accurate. My 2020 JLUR non eTorque 3.6 auto with HD electrical/tow package had a generator not an alternator. I know this for a fact as they were replaced twice due to being damaged from other issues in my electrical system. Just over $660 each covered under warranty.

I was told by the dealership that all the HD electrical/tow packages with either the 3.6 or 2.0 have a generator vs a traditional alternator regardless of eTorque.

Non eTorque JLs without the HD towing/electrical package use a traditional alternator would be more correct.
My 2018 3.6 non-etorque with HD electric/tow package definitely has a traditional alternator, for what it's worth. So it's not "all HD electric/tow".
 

Asuriyan

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"Generator" implies a dynamo with a commutator, but most DC generators these days are actually alternators. Brush/spindle designs are much less efficient and prone to wear; alternators use solid-state diode bridges to output DC power. Not technically the wrong nomenclature on that RO, but somewhat misleading.
 

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Fsttanks

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That PN is definitely just a regular-old alternator:

https://store.mopar.com/oem-parts/mopar-alternator-56029803aa
I can only go with what I was told and what is clearly in print show in the photo above. Both FCA and the dealership referred to the “alternator” as a generator. The difference as it was explained to me a few times is in the “smoothness” of the power being delivered and that the generator uses a small built in “computer chip” which “talks” to the main computer to determine power output requirement. A traditional alternator does not have the computer chip. The JLs are more heavily computer controlled then most people care to know (something I learned first hand a few times) and in so need a smooth “flow” of power that is maintained within rather tight margins of “noise” and voltage.

I was told they use “alternator” just as a generic “catch all” term since most people understand what it is and does.

Again I am only passing along the information that was provided to me during my nightmare of electrical issues with my 2020 3.6 JLUR. Had it had even more electrical and computer controlled option like eTorque I could only image that my experience would have been even worst.
 
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Heimkehr

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I went with the 2.0 in my 2 door and love it. It has less lag than the turbo in my old A4 and you really notice the torque under hard acceleration.

It really is a rocket.
The 2.0T's acceleration has surprised several drivers, including a jackass in a Jetta who sped up as I was legally passing him. No Fahrvergnügen for him that day.
 

AnnDee4444

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I can only go with what I was told and what is clearly in print show in the photo above. Both FCA and the dealership referred to the “alternator” as a generator. The difference as it was explained to me a few times is in the “smoothness” of the power being delivered and that the generator uses a small built in “computer chip” which “talks” to the main computer to determine power output requirement. A traditional alternator does not have the computer chip. The JLs are more heavily computer controlled then most people care to know (something I learned first hand a few times) and in so need a smooth “flow” of power that is maintained within rather tight margins of “noise” and voltage.

I was told they use “alternator” just as a generic “catch all” term since most people understand what it is and does.

Again I am only passing along the information that was provided to me during my nightmare of electrical issues with my 2020 3.6 JLUR. Had it had even more electrical and computer controls option like eTorque I could only image that my experience would have been even worst.
If what you've described is accurate, I don't see eTorque as having the same issue. The eTorque's generator charges the 48V battery, which is probably not as sensitive to voltage fluctuations as the 12V electronics that FCA is trying to protect. The DC-DC converter (which I believe to be the weak point with eTorque) seems to almost always deliver a constant voltage usually around 14.0, even during ESS events. Of course there have been a few reports of low voltage on eTorque models when in 4-low for extended periods of time, which I suspect is the DC-DC converter overheating... but that's just a theory at this point and could probably be managed by turning off the A/C (just a guess, I haven't experienced this myself).
 

pipincan

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What were the driving factors that lead to your engine choice?
Coming from a 2011 JKUR manual with the 3.8 V6, I chose the 2.0 turbo for the following reasons
  • It came with a $500 discount.
  • It was being used in the Alfa Giulia and Stelvio without any issues.
  • Having never driven it before purchasing, it was a "let's go for it and see what happens" decision.
Do I regret my choice? Not in the slightest. Combined with the 8-speed auto and the power top, it's a joy to own.

However, when FCA finally start selling the 392 up here in Canada, I will be talking to the local dealer and seeing what they can do. :jk:
 
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lpasq

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In February, placed order for a manual six. Days after order placed, manual tranny got recalled and builds stopped. I canceled the stick and ordered the Italian turbo 4 with an auto.
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